No Spark

Hi,

Have you checked the ground between the ignition control module and engine? It is under the top cover. See pic 1.

Let me know. Also, let me know if it is only spark that has been lost. Also, has the ignition control module been replaced?

Take care,

Joe

See pic below.

Hi,

The Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) is used to correlate crankshaft to camshaft position so that the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) can determine which cylinder is ready to be fueled by the injector. The CMP sensor is also used to determine which cylinder is misfiring when a misfire is present, but it doesn't determine ignition spark timing.

The PCM sends the ignition control pulse to the ICM on these circuits based on crankshaft position signals. You have replaced the CKP already. Either the ICM is bad, the PCM is bad or there is a wiring issue. Make sure none of the pins in the connector are damaged, corroded, or bent.

I can't guarantee it, but I feel the module has failed. Are you able to retrieve diagnostic trouble codes? Is there a salvage yard where you could get a used ICM?

Let me know.

Joe

Hi,

Don't run it too much like that. It will damage the catalytic converter because it is getting raw fuel into it.

At this point, are you able to get a new ICM? You could hook it up and see if that takes care of the issue. If it doesn't, return it.

Let me know.

Joe

Hi,

What code did you get related to the O2 sensor and camshaft position sensor?

Let me know so I can look into both of them.

Joe

If that is the only code, it could be something not even related to electronics. Have you confirmed there are no engine vacuum leaks and the fuel pressure is within spec?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Do me a favor. Locate the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail. There will be a vacuum hose attached to it. First, confirm that hose is in good condition. Disconnect the vacuum hose and inspect it for evidence of fuel in the hose.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

Hi,

Each of the fuel injectors has a gray wire to it. That is the power supply and should have 12v at all times with the key on. Confirm it is a power issue first. It won't be a fuse or relay issue because all 4 injectors get power from the same place.

If you look below, I attached a portion of the wiring schematic and see where a problem can be if injectors 3 and 4 have no power but 1 and 2 do. There is a point where all four gray power wires are spliced. It is near the rear of the engine.

Take a look at the pics I attached, specifically pic 1. (I had to cut the schematic in half to make it readable). Note the splice and its location. I have it circled in pic 1.

Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.

Hi,

You are correct. On the affected cylinders, both have a gray wire, but both also have another wire, one is Pink with a black tracer and the other is light blue with a black tracer.

Here is how it works. You have 12v to the gray wires at all times when starting or in the run position. You confirmed that is good. For the circuit to be completed, the PCM provides a ground path at a specific time and for a specific length of time. That completes the circuit and actuates the injector. So, if you have power and this happened to both cylinders at the same time, I suspect there is either a wiring issue, connection issue, or the PCM has failed.

The first thing I need you to check is if there is a ground path being provided by the PCM. A Noid light can be used to confirm this or even a test light. Here is a link that explains how to test:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-fuel-injector

Since we know we have power, if you use a test light, disconnect the connector on the injector, identify the pink/black first and place the test light on that pin and the opposite side on the battery positive. Have a helper crank the engine. When the PCM provides the ground path, it should light. It should actually strobe on and off while cranking.

If the light doesn't strobe, here is what I need you to do. Disconnect the negative battery terminal and wait for approximately 10 minutes.

Next, locate the PCM which is on the passenger side front of the engine compartment. There will be two connectors. Disconnect the black one. The other one is blue and not relevant.

Next disconnect the injectors (cylinder 3 and 4). Using a multimeter or voltmeter, confirm there is continuity between the injector connector and the PCM connector. At the connector, locate pins 75 and 76 (see pic 2) using pic 1, identify the wire color at the injector and which pin it goes to in the connector.

If there is continuity, confirm there is no corrosion or damage at the PCM connector. The pins can break from corrosion or actually short together. Since these two are side by side, I have a feeling there is an issue with the connector, but we need to check.

If the connectors are good, the wiring is good, and there is no evidence of damage, suspect the PCM has failed. You could place a Noid light on the injector connector to see if it pulses on and off to confirm. If it doesn't, the PCM is my primary suspect.

Let me know if this helps or if you have questions.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below. Note: We need to get it running. It's worth more that way. LOL

Hi,

Those must be related to the cooling fan and level sensor. As far as the PCM, I attached the directions below for removal and replacement. Since you are only testing, the relearn shouldn't be required.

I have a feeling the connector is causing the issue or the PCM itself has failed.

If you change your mind, let me know. You can get remanufactured PCM's for a good price and they come plug and play based on your VIN number.

Let me know.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below. The last pic shows the location. It is behind the front bumper.