No crank no start

Tiny
MAILMD32217
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 ACURA CL
  • 3.0L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 153,000 MILES
I stopped at the gas station pump to get gas. When I tried to start the ignition, it would not crank. There was a definite electrical click when I first tried to start at the gas pump, but would not start. This is the first time this has happened since I purchased about it two weeks ago. It has happened abruptly for no apparent reason without any warning. When I have had this problem before with other vehicles, it was always the battery or bad connection to the battery. I checked the connection to the battery and discovered the negative battery cable was the wrong size, too large for the terminal to make a tight connection. I walked across the street and purchased a new brass terminal cable that fit proper and tight, but go the same result. I then purchased a battery tester for amperage and the meter tested in the okay range indicating the battery was good. Several consumers tried to jump start it unsuccessfully. I called AAA Roadside Assistance for a tow. An AAA Roadside Assistant arrived in a AAA pickup truck and tried to jump start it, connected the positive to the negative and the negative to the positive battery terminals causing a large blast of sparks to shoot from the battery terminal. He jumped back quickly from the battery and shouted out something. I told him he did not connected the terminals correctly. He replied he thought the gold cable was the positive. I told him the + and - signs are clearly engraved on the battery and the positive battery cable also has a + engraved on it. He did not look for the correct terminal to connect to and was not a tow truck. I told him that what did can cause damage to the electrical system, starter, solenoid, alternator and other parts. I was concerned that he may have caused damage to parts of the car and he was not a tow truck that I requested. So, I did not want to continue with him. I called AAA again and requested a tow truck. He left and a tow truck came and towed it home. When I tested the interior fuse box, none of the fuses light up with a test light. Now, when I try to start it, it does not click as it did before. Only the dashboard lights go on and off. The dashboard lights go on and off. The security key light blinks, rather than a steady on, for a few seconds and goes off. I have never had this problem before and do not know what the problem is nor the solution. There are a number of possibilities, such as blown fuses, relays, starter solenoid connection, wiring, starter malfunction, security system may have disabled the started by activating the immobilizer, the neutral safety switch, etc. Can one, two or more of you CarPros please help diagnose the actual problem with a solution?
Thursday, July 18th, 2019 AT 7:21 AM

5 Replies

Tiny
SCGRANTURISMO
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,897 POSTS
Hello,

The original problem sounds like it could be a problem with your vehicle's starter. Every starter has a Bendix gear which when powered up extends out, meshing with your vehicle's flywheel and cranking the engine to get it started with the starters electric motor powered by the battery. The clicking you were hearing was the Bendix trying to extend, and not being able to, for whatever reason. I would start by replacing the starter, and then we can work it from there if there is electrical damage from the improper jump start. The good news there is, that every circuit in your vehicle is fused for a short to ground, which is what would have happened, so you should, hopefully, if there was a problem, just have to change some fuses, but we will cross that bridge when and only if we need to. In the diagrams down below I have included a wiring diagram of your vehicle's starting system as well as directions for the removal and installation of your vehicle's starter. Please go through these guides and get back to us with what you are able to find out.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros
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Friday, July 19th, 2019 AT 12:52 AM
Tiny
MAILMD32217
  • MEMBER
  • 23 POSTS
Good afternoon,

Thank you for your reply.

Why do all of the interior fuses fail to light the test light?

Will fuse failure effect a starter solenoid test light test?

Should I test the starter and starter solenoid first before replacement?

Let me know.

Thanks,

M D
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Friday, July 19th, 2019 AT 1:56 AM
Tiny
SCGRANTURISMO
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,897 POSTS
Hello again,

The fuses that are in your vehicle's starting circuit are all located in the Underhood Fuse/Relay Box. They are BATT fuse #15(100A), IGN SW fuse#18(50A), STARTER SIGNAL fuse#9(7.5A). I have included a diagram and callout of your vehicle's Underhood Fuse/Relay Box in the diagrams down below for you. Here is a link for you to go to for your vehicle's starter.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

Please go through these guides and get back to us with what you are able to find out. It is good when dealing with multiple problems, like this has the potential to be(starter and then fuses) to focus on one thing at a time. Otherwise things will get scattered and you wind up loosing your place.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros
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Friday, July 19th, 2019 AT 7:06 AM
Tiny
MAILMD32217
  • MEMBER
  • 23 POSTS
Hey,

I don't see the "SIGNAL fuse#9(7.5A) underhood.

M D
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Friday, July 19th, 2019 AT 1:18 PM
Tiny
SCGRANTURISMO
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,897 POSTS
Hello again,

My bad, sorry about that. It is because this fuse is in the Under Dash Fuse Box. I thought I sent the information in my last reply, but somehow it didn't make it. I have included it in the diagrams down below this time though. Please go through the guides and get back to us with what you are able to find out.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros
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Friday, July 19th, 2019 AT 7:13 PM

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