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1997 Mazda Millenia Repair Question


Topics covered: Sensor, Engine, Spark.
Mileage: No information provided.

Asked on September 25, 2010

97 2.5l wont start

Electrical problem
1997 Mazda Millenia 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 90K miles

I have a 97 mazda millenia 2.5L that wont start. Engine is getting fuel but no spark. I have checked engine fuse and voltage at coil with key on. distributer has proper signals and voltage. I have replaced the distributer with a used one that came off a working engine. I have also checked the crank angle sensors resistance, got 580 ohms. timing belt also checked good. car still wont start (no spark) Do you Know any other checks that I can perform?
Avatar Asked by Haroldmcg123

Answer

Replied on September 26, 2010

You replaced the distributor-check the cap and rotor if its making contact internal to transfer the secondary voltages to the plugs-

Tiny Answered by rasmataz
68 questions asked
Replied on September 27, 2010

thanks for the quick reply, today I replaced the distributer cap and rotor with a new one from the auto store. The parts man got me to buy a OBDII scan tool. car still does not start (no spark) the scan tool reads code P1345. any ideas how to fix this. thank you

Tiny Response from Haroldmcg123
1 question asked
Replied on September 27, 2010

P1345 is "Crankshaft position sensor / Camshaft position sensor check and test this two sensors

Tiny Answered by rasmataz
68 questions asked

Replied on September 28, 2010

I have checked the crankshaft sensor, I used an ohm meter and got 580 ohms which is within specs.
I have not checked the camshaft posistion sensor yet. could you tell me how to check it, looks like its in the distributor not sure which pins to test from.
Thank you

Tiny Response from Haroldmcg123
1 question asked
Replied on October 6, 2010

OK, so i finally got a remanufactured distributor from the parts store cost me just about $300 poped it in and the car fired right up. I cleared the ECU memory and the check engine light stayed off. The car worked fine for a while (3 days). then today on the way home from work the check engine light came on engine loss power for a second car worked for about a mile more then engine died and would not start I had it towed home. I was able to use the scan tool which showed codes P0325 and P1345 looks like Im back to where I started.
Could the crank sensor have the correct resistance and still be bad? Could I have a bad ECU?
Thank you

Tiny Response from Haroldmcg123
1 question asked

Replied on October 6, 2010

You got a remanufactured distributor it fire right up but didn't last long-next time it dies out look for spark immediately-no spark retest the cam and crank sensor and its wiring back to the computer if okay-you could be right on the computer and its not cheap.

P0325 is a knock sensor problem

Tiny Answered by rasmataz
68 questions asked