1990 Honda CRX Loss of power

The timing is correct to the specs provided by honda. I cleaned the EACV valve and tried doing some idle ajustments, but even with it all the way out it still has a idle of around 1200 rpms.

Is their any other reason why I would loose power when shifting to a lower gear at a higher Rpm?

It bogs down only when im downshiffting while trying to race.

If im going up in gears its usually allright and it will stay in motion without heassitation as long as the rpms are pretty much kept high.

I only used the ajustments on the distributor to keep it at a high idle. The car runs worse if I kick it back all the way and its at a lower idle.

Still no check engine lights.

Went through all my wiring and it still shows the same symptoms.

With changing to fuel injection would there be the need to advance or retard the timing?

Any ideas on what is causing the power loss in only certain situations?

Everyting seems to be correct, the distributor is correct for my application. It was all matched up to obtain a proper conversion and you can rule out a improper part being used. Would a bad connection to the fuel injectors be the reason since I had to run to connecters directly to the ecu? I used proper gauged wires but didnt soulder and heat shrink.

Its a problem only in a certain senrio witch leads me to think its not a sensor or something that was added.

It is running a full exaust of 2.5 inches off a 4-2-1 header so back pressure is minnimum due to a race cat that is high flow.

It sounds like mabye a little bit of back firing through the exhaust but its only when letting off the gas. A rumbling like sound of diffrent pitches.

Trying to give you as much info as I can.
Car drives well under non stress conditions and only seems to be a random problem. Im so confused, and not sure what next to check, went through everything if anyone has a idea please throw it out there

Thank you

I dont see how the fuel filter would cause the bogging down to occur only when it is being shifted down, there is no problem when going through the gears shifting up and at a stand still in nutreal I can reach max rpms with no segnificant probelem.

On the thought of changing the car to fuel injection, do you know if the crx si had a higher timing set then the base model crx? It has the timing on the car and is ajusted to the base model specs.

Ill try ajusting the throttle screw today and see if I can change the idle. Ill put the dizzy in the middle and work from there to try and get a idle of 700.

I have 1 line that runs from the center of my intake to the engine head that has a good vaccume hold but its almost like its hooked up to re-ciculate engine gasses. Pvc valve type set up but has no ball or anything to stop circulation at any point.

If the dizzy was ajusted up to far would that cause a hessitation when downshifting to obtain a higher rpm.
But not if you work your way up to the higher rpms in the motion of 1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th.

Im not trying to be rude with my replys I just dont want to cause any confusion on what is happining.
Thank you for your ideas so far, I can use what ever help possible

Thank you for the more indepth insight on the fuel filter, I belive the throttle isnt ajusted on the intake by a screw like most vehicles and is done with vaccumes, the only ajustment I found was on the EACV and it will only raise the idle and not lower it because it is allready pulled back, I re-traced all lines and are functional, im going to try the fuel filter and look for a change

The pvc is good still and has a line running to it that if disconencted almost kills the engine?

Is that good or bad? It runs from the top of the pvc to the intake manifold, ill upload some photos for refrence.

Here are photos of the vaccume lines that run from the pvc to a sensor then down to the intake manifold.

(picture 3)

also is a photo of the EACV wich is ajusted to the lowest idle for cold conditions I belive is what its for.

(picture 4)

the one that shows the front of the intake is the middle hose that runs down under the manifold into a box, it has a signifact purpose wich I dont know what it is because without it attathed to the manifold the engine would run excessively high

No ac in the car anymore, was pulled out when I bought it, and no coolant flows through the lines, they seem to be just in a circular path, possible coolant bloackage mabye.

The blue line runs from my Fuel pressure regulator to the intake manifold, should they be connet in a t patter like these lines are and the map sensor should be seperate running only to the manifold?

Purge selenoid should run to the manifold-

Map sensor should run to the manifold-

EACV should recieve coolant from engine-

(took cap off EACV and there isnt any hole for coolant to reach internal sensor, just seems like a circular route.)

Will look for idle screw again and see if I can find it,
and re run hoses like explained.

Will update as soon as I run through the parts and check to see if re-routing helps. Thank you for more insight, I owe you big time,

Are you a certified Tech?

Found the idle screw. It was ajusted all the way out, and i turned it in completely. Idle's around 775-800 now. Taking it to work today, 200 miles round trip.

Didn't adjust the vacumes yet but if its no better now then ill go there next. Is it important to have fluid in the eacv if there is no ac? Hoses seem to run together in a circle from bottom to top with no point to meet any coolant lines, ac was completely removed before i purchased the vehicle.

Great info!!

Above is full shot

Here is the full car photo of whats been my project for the last 6 months, purchased for 350$, invesyed 700$

Isolated the map sensor when I got home and tweaked the idle just a little bit more, car runs perfect and very resposive going up in gears! Seemed to gain a 1/4 of a second in 0-60!

Still a hesitation problem today getting onto a highway and needed to get infront of a semi-truck.

Car lost power when letting off gas completely and re appling gas no gear change. Seemed to be like fuel shut off and then returned. Very weird.

Re routed the PVC and the FITV to be correct.
No knobs or access points for Coolant to pass through the EACV. Didn't remove any lines from the water pump area and cant locate any replaced lines.

Could the coolant that passes through the intake manifod and back to the block be used to run through the EACV and not cause problems if I added lines to make it work?

Car seems to be okay now havent taken it out to see if the hesitation has been resolved, ran a bottle of fuel cleaner and octane booster to see if it was a possible clog.

If I unplug the map sensor how its hooked up now engine will die completely. Seems to be working great in that area.

What should I run the blue hose to? What dash port vaccume?