1988 Honda CRX

Engine Performance problem
1988 Honda CRX 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Manual 185000 miles

I had just bought my crx not two weeks ago, and had replaced the timing belt, alt belt, water pump, oil, plugs, etc. When suspecting an intermittent hesitation - lul when down shifting. Not too long afterward, I had almost complete loss of power under load / on acceleration driving in to work. It is like someone just turned off the power. But I get a sputter here and there, but typically all the way until it stalls.

Vehicle is equipped with 1.5L w/ t-body injection which has 2 injectors ( primary and secondary ).

I suspect that ECM is killing power to the injectors. Have not yet been able to test fuel press.
but do not suspect fuel pump. TPS tested ok. Vehicle loses power to the point that it will shut off
but fires back up with NO HESTATION. No check engine light on / no code flashes from ecm led. However, , when disengaging one or both of the injectors, it does send the appropriate signals to the ECM. Just not during the stall.

The car has new distributor- 02 sensor and fuel filter. As well as a rebuilt throttle body. What should I expect to see as far as power supply
to these injectors? When are the PRIMARY and SECONDARY active? ALL info is highly
October 12, 2009.

Sounds like your timing belt may be off a tooth or 2. Didi it do this before the timing belt replacement?

Oct 12, 2009.
Problem has nothing to do with the T-belt.
Vehicle ran fine after belt replacement.
If there was a problem with T-belt it would
have loss of power all the time not intermittently.
Vehicle will, at times run normally ( plenty of power / good accel. ) And then suddenly fall on it's face so to speak. Depress accelerator nothing happens and if you continue to to try to accel
it will totally shut off more often than not.

Oct 13, 2009.
Next step is to test the fuel pressure. I know on hondas it can be a pain but u need to put a guage on it and drive it until it happenes. If the computer is cutting out the injectors the car will turn off like a switch with no hesitation or warning. If the pump has a slow loss of pressure then it will slowly die out until it shuts off all the way. You could have dirt or rust in your tank and after driving for a little while it may clog the fuel sock/filter in the tank and after it stalls all the dirt/rust falls off so that the car will drive fine again until it sucks all the crap back up again. Fuel pressure test is the next best step.

Oct 13, 2009.