2001 Honda Civic belt/rotating noise

How could it be an AC clutch bearing if the noise is LESS noticeable when the AC is ON?

When the a/c is off, only the puleys are turning and the compressor shaft is stationary. At this instance, the clutch bearing is also turning. When the a/c is on, the clutch engage and the compressor shaft turns at the same rpm of the pulley. As the bearing further deteriorates, the wiggle and the noise will be more, even if the a/c is turned on.

That makes sense. I'll see if I can get the ac clutch bearing replaced. I hope it won't be too expensive.

Im not familiar with the prices in your area, i've changed mine before, but I changed the clutch pulley together with the bearing inside, used part though.

Honda wants $1600 to replace the compressor, coil, drier and clutch. I might as well pull down my pants and bend over. The mechanic says that the compressor rod is shifting back and forth and moving around. While the bearing is basically falling apart. I'm not sure if I entirely believe him.

The AC still runs and cool air is still being produced. I have a feeling that I'll just have to replace the clutch, maybe the coil/solenoid if it got damaged.

Does that sound good?

Situation differs in different location. If I were u. Ill try to find a used compressor, damaged or not as long as the clutch is fine. Invest in some tools u need to use. Replace the clutch pulley together with the bearing. After you finish the job, you still have your tools to do other repairs. You will spend less and you will learn.I will guide you all the way.

I attempted to replace bearing in vehicle myself but gave up. The reason noise is less when AC is on is because the magnetic clutch pulls the pulley into better alignment and, as stated by another, the idle bearing is no longer turning.

The problem is the longer you wait the more damage to the clutch plate, pulley, and electromagnet housing you'll have. In the end, it was cheaper to buy a remanufactured compressor and replace whole thing DIY.

I replaced compressor, tension/idle pulley bearing, and the receiver/dryer. Best price/quality at time was diiscountacparts. Com

Once parts came in I took car to a shop and had them remove refrigerant. You'll have to remove the radiator and p/s pump in order to get the compressor and its mounting bolts out. Use new O-rings and replace receiver/dryer at time you replace compressor. If you have over 100K miles and haven't replaced the water pump and timing belt yet this is also the time to do that. Once all back together have system recharged and you're good to go.