1998 Honda Accord Car Stalls during start up and while driv

Has the fuel filter been replaced in the last 20-30,000 miles? Or within the last 2 years?. Or ever?

Has it sat for extended periods of time?

Do you live in a cold climate? Has the Anti_Freeze been serviced on a regular basis?

There are a lot of variables that could be electrical, maybe a vacuum leak or Idle control module failure.

The Idle on your car is controilled by an Iddle Air Control Valve, (IACV), that senses things like coolant temperatrue and engine load to adjust the idle as needed.

Also, with the motor running, listen for an air sucking sound as this is indicative of a vacuum leak.

Get back to me with that information and I will try to help you figure out what is going on.

Okay, the anti-freeze can be an issue due to the possibility of a head gasket leak. This lets anti-freeze into combustion chamber and it does not burn very well.

If someone said the distributor might be issue, it sure can be. Hondas are notorious for Coil, and igniter failures as they are under the cap of the distributor. The issue is so bad that MSD makes a coil out of cap conversion where you can get an external SS coil and a modified cap and matching rotor all for around $100. MSD makes a nice budget wire set to match for like $45. You will pay close to these costs to replace them anyway with OEM or even Beck-Warnley stuff. It is worth it. It is a good idea to get NGK or Denso plugs too.
I have a place that can set you up with a brand new, not reman, distributor with less than 5000 miles for B18A motor with said conversion installed and the top of the line 8.5mm wires, less coil. Got to summit racing. Com to see prices and you can send me an e-mail me at beck. Bradley333@hotmail. Com.
The bearing can wear out too, but unlikely the issue.
The cap and rotor are a must. I think you said you did plug wires and plugs. If there is any question, you should replace them all because the mileage is about right for that stuff to fail. It will be intermittent in some cases and then completely fail. That is part of the challenge with electrical stuff as it will fail slowly, intermittently and in all cases, totally. It can also be an issue where one weak part makes another fail. Overheated electrical will put demands on dependant components and can damage them. I have fixed stuff and had other stuff fail at a later date due to aforementioned situation. So, it is best o go through a process of elimination, but use reason when a part failure can damage other parts when it catastrophically fails.
Pull the plugs when you get a chance and look at the tip. A brownish tan color is normal. If you find anything else. Let me know what it looks like.

Also, temp sensors and the IACV can get corroded form anti-freeze not being changed. This will give false signals to the ECU which will cause lean fuel and incorrect spark advance and retard conditions.

Does the car die under load like going up a steep grade?
Does the throttle position have any correlation with stalling?

Look at your exhaust, does it smoke? When you start out form a stop, look in rear view and get on the gas and see if a puff of smoke comes out. Let me know if it does any of this and what it looks like.

We'll get it figured out and you won't waste any money if you follow a logical elimination flow chart and keep track of things.

I will check back soon.

Cheers for solving the problem.

Actually there is a fuel filter for your vehicle. It is intank, with the fuel pump attached to it.

Item A is the filter.

That is really good news. Taking the iniciative to seek out other possibilities is never a waste of time. Even if you just learn something along the way.
Electrical problems are really tough to chase down.
It is even better that you did not spend money diagnosing the issue.
Let me know how the car runs after the switch is replaced.
I think you beat a record for shortest diagnosis of an electrical issue.