1994 Honda Accord

Engine Cooling problem
1994 Honda Accord 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 160000 miles

I just moved from michigan to california and drove this car the whole way. It broke down 5 times due to issues with the radiator and transmision. I have put a great deal of money into this car coming out here and there is still more to be fixed. I'm trying to save some money by doing some repairs myself.

problem number one is the car's speedometer stoped working all of a sudden. It happened right when the engine started to overheat for the first time. I dont know if there is a connection there or not. Anyways, it did not completely stop working. It would come on every once in a while for a second or two and then quit again. From illanois to california the tripometer only said I went 56 miles. That is just how much of the 2,500 mile trip the speedometer worked. I was just wondering what is wrong with it and how I might fix it.

continuing on to problem 2 is the radiator fan. First off, in texas, we had a new radiator put in and then in texas again and arizona we had new hoses put in for the radiator. They never did anything with the radiator fan though. I kept wondering why the car was still overheating with a brand new radiator and hoses with no leaks. But then I noticed that the fan for the ac unit was working, however the motor for the radiator fan had stoped working. So just yesterday I bought a new motor and put it in. I connected the wires back up but the fan never seemed to come on even after letting it sit for a alf hour and driving it for a half hour. It did not overheat, but then again it does not always overheat. It usually only overheats on a day where the temp outside is above 80 and it has been driven for an hour or so in stop and go traffic. Once it is moving there is enough air flow and it is fine, but when it is stopped it will sometimes overheat. But I still would have thought that the fan would have come on at some point withing that hour of running. So is there something other than the motor that could be wrong? Also, I don't know if this is related to this problem or something else but during every trip I take, the check engine light comes on within the first 10-15 minutes of driving but most of the time when im on the expressway, yet sometimes in the city as well.

continuing on to problem 3, is seems to be maybe a transmission issue? Last night when I changed the fan and was checing to see if it was working, I had my friend start the car and rev the engine holding it at 2500 rpms. While he was doing that, even with consistant pressure on the accelorator, the rpms would jump down 500 rpms and build up to 2500 again. At stop lights, sometimes it does the same thing it usually idles around 1000 and at one point it did this so bad that when it jumped down, it stalled the car. Then it seemed to fix itself and was working fine for a while but now its back but not as bad. Yet. Also it does this while driving. Especially in acceleration. It just seems that it needs more gas to accelerate and then all of a sudden it jumps up again, changes gears and then jusmps down again make a rather rough shift. It does not do this all the time but it does it a few times every trip into town I go on. I bought some sea foam stuff to see if I could run it through and see if that fixes the problem but I have not tried it yet. However that is what one of the guys at one of the several car repair shops I went to used and it worked great then, but it hasn't been driven too much since they did it last so I don't know If that would be the problem. I had the transmission fluid replaced however with the car still overheating from time to time, would that burn up the transmission fluid again and possible cause this problem? The problem with the transmission before was that the wire that ran from the computer to tell the car when to shift was resting on the axle somehow and the axle eventually burned through it causing the car to remain in first unless I manually put it in second with the gear shifter.

lastly is problem number 4. This has been an issue for a long time. To me it doesn't seem huge, but it is really annoying. The suspension squeks real bad. In michigan I had a shop put some grease in the bushings I believe it was, and it helped out a lot however it just keeps coming back. Is this an indication that the suspenision could be bad though. The guys at the shop that did this did not seem to think so. But what can I do to get rid of the squeeking?

Thank you so much for your time and I look forward to possibly getting something figured out on this car for once.
October 20, 2008.

Hello, can you let me know which engine it has. Is the L4-2.2L SOHC VTEC or teh L4-2156cc 2.2L SOHC MFI


Oct 20, 2008.
It is the vtec

Oct 21, 2008.

Looks like the car is doing great for you even though you say you have put a great deal of money into it since it has about 160000 miles. It is time certain things start to go though.

Number One: My first thought is the Vehicle Speed Sensor. I have attached a few troubleshooting charts for you and some pics and directions on how to change.

1. Disconnect the 3-P connector from the vehicle speed sensor (VSS).
2. Remove the mounting bolts, then remove the VSS. NOTE: The VSS drive link is a very small part, be careful not to lose it.
3. Install in the reverse order of removal.

Number Two First Part (You tried to sneak another problem in there with the check engine light, just kidding of course)

- Just to keep in the back of your mind - there is a Technical Service Bulleting out on Temp Gauge Goes to Hot: Bulletin NBR 94-021. I am not saying that is the problem here, I just want you aware to keep in the back of your mind for future info.
- You stated you change radiator and new hoses. You have never said anything about the thermostat. Though that still isn't dealing with your fans, with that many miles and the cost of a thermostat, that baby would be changed.
- Now the fans. I have attached some info below on the operation of the cooling system for your reading pleasure.

- Cooling fan operation is controlled by the fan timer module, which monitors signals from a thermo sensor, underhood temperature sensor and the A/C compressor clutch. The timer operates the cooling fan by controlling voltage applied to the fan relay control coil. Battery voltage is applied directly from the main fuse to the relay switch circuit and timer bypass circuit, and voltage is applied to the timer main circuits through the ignition switch start and run contacts. The timer module controls voltage applied to the relay control coil circuit, and the control coil circuit is completed to ground either through the thermo sensor or timing module. When current flows through the relay coil circuit, the relay contacts close and voltage is applied to the cooling fan motor.

During normal operation, voltage is applied to the relay coil by the timer module and fan operation is controlled by the thermo sensor. When coolant temperature is approximately 190 F, current flows through the relay coil circuit and voltage is applied to the fan motor. When coolant temperature is below 190 F, the thermo sensor contacts are open and the cooling fan does not operate. However, when the A/C is turned on, the timer energizes the relay coil and the cooling fan operates as long as the clutch remains energized.

When the engine is turned off, the timer module remains energized and monitors signals from the underhood temperature sensor. If underhood temperature exceeds 220 F, the timer activates the fan relay and the cooling fan is energized. The cooling fan will operate for a maximum of 15 minutes after the engine has stopped or until underhood temperature drops below 220 F.
- Now the fans continued: Please check all fuses with a volt meter for continuity. Not always is visual okay. Fuses 4, 8, 15, 18, 21, 34. I have attached pics of the fuse panels etc.

- Question, my information shows 1 fan. Is that all you have?
- Next - when you turn the AC on, the fan should automatically come on. If the fuses are okay, and you changed the fan motor, then I would check the radiator fan relay and the condenser fan relay. Tests below.
- Before we go farther than this, most of the time it is the fuses or relays or motor. So let me know from here on this.


There should be continuity between the A and C terminals when power and ground are connected to the B and D terminals, and there should be no continuity when power is disconnected.


There should be continuity between the A and C terminals when power and ground are connected to the B and D terminals, and there should be no continuity when power is disconnected.

Number Two Second Part: Now for the check engine light. Go to Auto Zone or O'Reilly's and for free they will pull the codes on the car. Find out what they are. Hey, while you are there, for free, have them bring the tester out and check your battery, alternator and starter.

Number Three: For the transmission problem, if a wire was burnt through, then I would check that wire really well. Look up and down it. If it feels harder than other areas or looks burnt, it may be damaged inside. I would splice a new piece in. Check that and we can go back to that.

Number Four: There are many parts to the suspension. Please be more specific. Front, rear, left side, right side. Provide the names of the parts you are talking about.

Remember - one thing at a time. If you replace too much at one time you won't know what fixed what. Eat this elephant one bite at a time.

When you are looking at a problem...try to stick to just that one thing....skipping around can cause confusion.

Okay, try these things and let us know.


Oct 21, 2008.