1998 Ford Ranger transmission fluid pump not pumping

Tiny
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The converter has to be installed out of the vehicle. You will never get it al of the way in if it is bolted to the engine. You should always unbolt the converter from the flexplate when removing the trans or engine.
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Monday, March 8th, 2010 AT 6:50 AM
Tiny
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Got the converter off. I got the gears engaged properly by following the Chilton Guide. It's back on but we still have a few things left to put on before we can test it out. I understand how the torque converter operates better now and I've got a good feeling that I got it right. "Viscous coupling" very cool.
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Tuesday, March 9th, 2010 AT 11:36 PM
Tiny
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Let me know how it goes
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Wednesday, March 10th, 2010 AT 7:15 AM
Tiny
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It went really well and then not so well. We got everything hooked back up, started the engine, and witnessed the transmission fluid squirt out the radiator line we left disconnected. We thought we nailed it! With the transmission line hooked up again, in the garage, we went through the gears and moved a few feet back and forward. We checked the fluid level. Everything was looking good. Now, as we manuevered around the driveway to go on a test drive things stopped working! The trans fluid was no longer pumping.

I'm pretty sure nothing was damaged with the first installation of the torque converter as there were no noises or bangs that usually accompany mechanical failures. And there were no such noises today either.

I read somewhere that you should be carefull if you flush older transmissions as it could dislodge debris and clog things. Even though we didn't do an official "flush" there has been a lot of turbulence in that transmission lately. Could we just have a clog somewhere?

What do I do now?
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Thursday, March 11th, 2010 AT 7:23 PM
Tiny
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You may have damaged the front pump in the trans. If the converter wasnt all of the way in, it can damage it without any obscene noises happening. The odds of something plugging the line and keeping it from working are extremely thin
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Thursday, March 11th, 2010 AT 7:43 PM
Tiny
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I was afraid you were going to say that :( Is it something fixable? Is it back to the salvage yard for a transmission? What would a shop want to do if I brought it in and said, "fix it."
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Thursday, March 11th, 2010 AT 10:08 PM
Tiny
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You may want to call a few trans shops and ask for quotes. Explain what hapened, they will be able to give you a pretty close estimate of what you are looking at.
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Friday, March 12th, 2010 AT 7:09 AM
Tiny
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AAMCO said it would be something like $1600-$1800 to tear down that transmission plus any parts. I think I'm up for tearing into it myself. What do you think I should do?
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Friday, March 12th, 2010 AT 11:42 AM
Tiny
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Assuming we screwed something up with the torque converter what would I have to do?
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Friday, March 12th, 2010 AT 11:44 AM
Tiny
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It would most likely be the front pump in the trans, not necessarily the converter.I dont recommend you "tear into it" without knowing what you are doing, an automatic trans is fairly complicated, that is why they cost so much to rebuild
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Saturday, March 13th, 2010 AT 7:23 AM
Tiny
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I called a couple of shops and told them my situation. If I bring in it to them they'll fix it for around $300. That's what I'm gonna do.
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Saturday, March 13th, 2010 AT 7:01 PM
Tiny
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Good call. Let me know how it goes
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Sunday, March 14th, 2010 AT 9:33 AM
Tiny
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On the road again! Finally! I do get an error code that indicates it's "running lean" though. I've had this before and it turned out to be the idle air control valve. I replaced it and it fixed the problem before. We put the newer control valve on the engine so I don't know why it's not working right. It's exhibiting the same symptoms as before. It doesn't always idle too well.
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Friday, March 19th, 2010 AT 10:06 AM
Tiny
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Check for vacuum leaks. Sparay around the intake with carb cleaner, when theidle changes you hit a leak. Also check fuel pressure with a manual gauge. If ok, it may have a Mass Airflow Meter that is going away, the odds of 2 IAC valves going bad is fairly slim
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Friday, March 19th, 2010 AT 10:33 PM
Tiny
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I haven't figured this damn thing out yet. I drove 500 miles this weekend with the check engine light on and got really crappy gas mileage. I checked the fuel pressure this evening and it was 65 psi. That's about 20 psi higher then normal (I think). I made sure all the vacuum and electrical connections were secure too.
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Monday, March 22nd, 2010 AT 8:18 PM
Tiny
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What is the code number? Is it saying lean bk1 or bk2 or both. Be sure there are no cracks in the intake hose from throttle body to the Mass AIrflow Meter. Also be sure you have constant intake vacuum to the fuel pressure regulator.
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Monday, March 22nd, 2010 AT 8:40 PM
Tiny
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P0174 is the code. In the course of troubleshooting this I broke a vacuum line. I haven't traced it yet so I'm not sure where it goes but it doesn't seem to effect the problem. Do you think the fuel pressure is high because the computer is trying to pump a lot of gas into the engine to compensate for the lean condition?
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Tuesday, March 23rd, 2010 AT 10:54 AM
Tiny
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Oh, and I believe the error code indicated both banks. What does that mean?
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Tuesday, March 23rd, 2010 AT 10:56 AM
Tiny
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Any vacuum leak will cause a lean error. Fix all vacuum leaks and clear codes first. The fuel pressure is run off of a vacuum signal from the intake, that is why I said to be sure the fuel regultaor has a solid vacuum signal from intake
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Tuesday, March 23rd, 2010 AT 12:51 PM
Tiny
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So I traced down that broken vacuum line. I had to remove the "panel" (for lack of a better word) that is between the front passenger side tire and engine compartment. The vacuum line lead to a cylinder/tank looking thing right behind the headlight. What is this? I'll get a new vacuum line tomorrow. I read in the Chilton Guide that the PCV valve should be replaced every year or so. What is the purpose of the PCV valve? Should I replace it?
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Tuesday, March 23rd, 2010 AT 9:55 PM

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