Engine power loss?

Hello my name is Dave.

Usually if your turbo is having problems you'll see blue (oil) smoke. If you haven't done so already I would recommend changing the fuel filter. The more likely cause would be the ICP sensor which is the injector control pressure, another possibility would be high pressure pump. The sensor is connected to the pump which is in the valley under the intake manifold. If you have a MIL on then I would check the codes and see if it's showing a pressure issue. If you don't have a code, which would not be unusual for this issue, I would change the sensor and see if that cures the problem as there's no reliable way to test the sensor. Before going ahead with changing the pump I would suggest letting us know and we can work on diagnosing it.

There are 2 lines that are there too. It may be the lines.
You will find out when you pull out the pump.

Roy

Depends on what is leaking. If it's leaking from the seal, then most likely just the seal. But if it's leaking from the pump housing, the pump will need to be replaced.

Check the ignition timing.

That depends on what engine you have.

Possible depending on how close it is to the oxygen sensor it can mess with the mixture reading. Problem is with those 460's is that the break exhaust bolts, then they harden from the heat and can be extremely difficult/expensive to have removed. Have seen instances where the head had to be removed to get the bolt out, and the cats for those are a little pricey as well

ENGINE ADJUSTMENTS - 7.5L -1996 Ford Pickup F250
Page 1 of 1
IGNITION TIMING

NOTE:
Depending on model, Pickup uses EEC-IV or EEC-V system. EEC-IV PCM
has 60-pin connector. EEC-V PCM has 104-pin connector. See the
ENGINE/VIN ID article for correct application.
With Federal Emissions (EEC-IV)

1.
Set transmission in Park or Neutral. Turn A/C and heater off. Connect inductive timing light to engine. With engine off, unplug in-line SPOUT connector (Yellow/Light Green wire near
distributor), or remove shorting bar from the double-wire SPOUT connector. Start and warm engine to normal operating temperature. DO NOT start engine with remote starter switch; use
only ignition key.
With engine at idle speed, check/adjust initial timing to 10 degrees BTDC. Turn engine off. Reconnect the single-wire in-line SPOUT connector or reinstall shorting bar on double-wire
SPOUT connector. Start engine. Verify timing advances beyond initial setting. Remove test equipment and reconnect all components.
2.
All Other Models (EEC-V)

Ignition timing on models equipped with EEC-V is not adjustable.

IF you have the EEC-V computer, yes. If you have the EEC-IV, MAYBE, if the timing isn't off too far. But checking the timing willalso tell you if the chain is loose, because you will see the timing mark bouncing around, which is something the computer can't compensate for.

Also check the fuel pressure at the regulator.

5.0?

When did this start happening?