Engine power loss and cut off when put in gear

This is often called limp mode. Sounds like the PCM is shut down. You need to have the cars computer read for any fault codes and get back to us with codes for more info?

COMPUTERIZED ENGINE CONTROLS
POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE (PCM)
PCM monitors engine operating conditions by input received from engine sensors. Control of output actuators determines fuel mixture and idle speed. For PCM location, see POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE LOCATION table.
The engine control system consists of the PCM, relays, modules, sensors, switches and actuators. The PCM sends out electrical reference signals to engine sensors and then analyzes the return signals. The engine sensors supply the PCM with specific information, in the form of electrical signals, to determine engine operating conditions.

*******In the event of a sensor or actuator failure, the PCM initiates an alternative strategy called Failure Mode Effects Management (FMEM) to allow the vehicle to maintain driveability. In the event of PCM failure, Hardware Limited Operation Strategy (HLOS) will be activated. HLOS is a system of alternate circuitry that provides minimal engine operation if the PCM fails. During HLOS, all self-test function will stop and system will be controlled by electronic hardware.
Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) will remain on whenever FMEM or HLOS is in operation. FMEM and HLOS substitute a fixed signal and continue to monitor system failure. If signal(s) return to within operating limits, PCM will resume normal operation.*****

When you say chug chug chug. Do you mean it sounds really slow at starting? Really slow to turn over. This could be a lazy starter?

Yeah if it's slow starting and gradually building up it is the starter. No problem buddy any time

My advice would be have the exhaust system checked to be that loud im thinking the exhaust pipe is loose or broken somewhere and if so your vehicle may not have adequate back pressure which could cause a lack of power

Yeah it would affect the mpg as well.
Its probably only gonna need some gaskets just ask around from people you know to try and find a good reputAble muffler shop

Does it feel like the brakes are sticking or grabbing? As far as the chimes, have the body control module checked.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

You have a 6 cylinder more likely.

Is the check engine light on?

You need to narrow down the air rushing noise source. Sometimes using a little carb cleaner can help if there is a vacuum leak as it will get sucked into the engine and raise the idle.

You mean teh foglamps or drl? There are 3 fuses in battery junction box as well as 3 in central junction box, there are 2 relays behind center dash. There is alos a module for eht drl at the left front of engine compt. However check fuse 8 &27 in fuse junction panel for drl. There are no relays for drl if fuses are good an dnot getting poer then module is bad

Hi Kevin;
Your OBD codes are P0301, P0302, P0303
When you put in new plugs and wires did you also put in (2) new coil packs?

Common Problems that Trigger P0301-P0302-P0303
Incorrect Ignition Timing
Vacuum Leak(s)
Low or Weak Fuel Pressure
Improperly functioning EGR System
Defective Mass Air Flow Sensor
Defective Crankshaft and/or Camshaft Sensor
Defective Throttle Position Sensor
Mechanical Engine Problems i.E Low Compression, Leaking Head Gasket or Valve Problems

Polluting Gases Expelled:
HC’S †Hydrocarbons -> unburned droplets of raw fuel that smell, effect breathing and color the sky
CO †Carbon Monoxide -> partially burned fuel that is an odorless but deadly poisonous gas
NOX †Oxides of Nitrogen -> gases that contribute to the creation of smog.

127,000 miles is pretty low so I would tend to eliminate the following from the common problems in this order:
(1) Leaking Head Gasket, Low Compression, or Valve Problems.
(2) DefectiveThrottle Position Sensor
(3) Defective Crankshaft and/or Camshaft Sensor
(4) Low or Weak Fuel Pressure

I would check the following in this order:
(1) Incorrect Ignition Timing
(2) Improperly functioning EGR System
**(Hint) a bad DPFE Sensor (Delta Pressure Feedback EGR) are known to toast up and effect the EGR System.
(3) Defective Mass Air Flow Sensor.

I have a feeling that it is the "D.P.F.E." Sensor causing a Improperly functioning EGR System.
The little S.O.B's are very well known to toast up.
If it were me I would fiddle with the D.P.F.E. First.
D.P.F.E.'S explained:

If you have a "Junk Yard" or Auto Salvage near you I would poke around one and see if you can find another D.P.F.E. Sensor for short or zero money, they are a small and made of plastic. Grab a "Mass Air Flow" Sensor for giggles too.
The M.A.F. Sensor is in your air flow system leading to your air filter box. It will say "Max Air Flow" right on it.

You are looking for a "D.P.F.E -4 Sensor"
Exact part numbers are any of the following:
YF1E-9J460AC
YF1E-9J460AD

2F1E-9J460AB

4U7E-9J460AA
They are around $40.00 from the dealer.
Get a good quality D.P.F.E. Sensor - The cheapo's will give you headaches.

I hope the information helped.
Good Luck;