MOTOR MOUNTS

Good morning,

I will attach the procedures for you.

Which mount do you need?

Roy

Left

LEFT SIDE MOUNT

REMOVAL
1. Raise vehicle on hoist and remove left front wheel.
2. Support the transmission with a transmission jack.
3. Remove the insulator through bolt from the mount.
4. Remove the transmission mount fasteners and remove mount.

INSTALLATION
1. Reverse removal procedure for installation.
2. Tighten mount to transmission bolts to 55 Nm (40 ft. Lbs.).

Engine Mounting-Left
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3. Tighten through bolt to 75 Nm (55 ft. Lbs.).
4. Adjust engine mount, refer to Adjustment.

Rear

REAR MOUNT

REMOVAL
1. Raise vehicle on hoist.
2. Support the transmission with a transmission jack so it will not rotate.
3. Remove the insulator through bolt from the mount and rear suspension crossmember.
4. Remove the four transmission mount fasteners and remove the mount.

INSTALLATION

Engine Mounting-Rear
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1. Reverse the removal procedure for installation. Tighten through bolt to 75 Nm (55 ft. Lbs.).

Right side

RIGHT SIDE MOUNT

REMOVAL

NOTE: Right mount should only be serviced as an assembly to prevent noise, vibration and harshness concerns.

1. Remove the purge duty solenoid and wiring harness from engine mount.

Engine Mount-Right
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2. Remove the two right engine mount insulator vertical fasteners and loosen the horizontal fastener, do not remove the large nut on the end of the core from frame rail.
3. Remove the load on the engine motor mounts by carefully supporting the engine and transmission assembly with a floor jack.
4. Remove the vertical and horizontal fasteners from the engine side bracket. Remove the engine mount assembly.

INSTALLATION
1. Reverse removal procedure for installation. Tighten assembly in the following order:
a. Engine mount to rail fasteners to 68 Nm (50 ft. Lbs.).
B. The vertical engine fastener to 102 Nm (75 ft. Lbs.).
C. The horizontal fastener to 150 Nm (111 ft. Lbs.).
2. Install the purge duty solenoid and wiring harness to the engine mount.
3. Adjust engine mount, refer to Adjustment.

Front

FRONT MOUNT

REMOVAL
1. Support the engine and transmission assembly with a floor jack so it will not rotate.

Engine Mount-Front
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2. Remove the front engine mount through bolt from the insulator and front crossmember mounting bracket.
3. Remove six screws from air dam to allow access to the front mount screws.
4. Remove the front engine mount screws and remove the insulator assembly.
5. Remove the front mounting bracket, if necessary.

INSTALLATION
1. Reverse removal procedure for installation and tighten fasteners (Fig. 24) to the following torque.
(A), (C) and (D) to 68 Nm (50 ft. Lbs.)
(B) to 102 Nm (75 ft. Lbs.)
(E) to 54 Nm (40 ft. Lbs.)
2. Install six screws to air dam and tighten to 12 Nm (105 inch lbs.).

Track

REMOVE
1. Remove the track bar from the track bar mount.

Track Bar Mount
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2. Remove the three bolts attaching the track bar mount to the body.

INSTALLATION
1. For installation, reverse removal procedure. Tighten bolts to 61 Nm (45 ft. Lbs.).

Hundreds os transaxle repairs, but not once did this ever happen on a 97. It won't hurt to remove the inspection cover to look at the flex plate and converter to see if there is any looseness or any of the balance weights fell off. If you find anything let me know, if the transmission was out beware. Good luck though. If I hear of anything I'll get back to you for sure. I would really need to feel, hear, and try to locate the source. Unhook the converter to see if it still does it, this will tell you if its the engine or trans. It's very possible the converter is bad, but I honestly never saw one vibrate enough to throw a belt. Take it off and check the pulleys for any runout or accessories for looseness.

The idler pulleys should have the tiniest back and forth movement, they have a preset preload so they may move a couple thousands of an inch. But here is what I would do. Take it out and since this is a steady vibration, your going to do a few things for me so we can get this taken care of. I'll ask a few questions, you try it and get back to me, I can't relax until I know your sure you'll be fine with this.
Trans, as it is vibrating and your accelerating, try dropping it into nuetral, or low, does it ever shake in reverse? Then try taking the belt completely off and let me knoww, it won't hurt anything on a quick testdrive. It is constant so do a short stretch. It's gonna be up to you to locate it by trying these things out. No belts, then try the different gears, is it RPM(engine) related, in other words can you get this standing still, I take it not, or watch your rpm's, in low, try it, as it vibrates tell me the RPM's, then D2, D3, OD, or low instead of 1. Then reverse. Is the steering wheel shaking? If you have to disconnect the torque converter, I doubt if you'll need to go that far, if the engine, while standing still never vibrates, its in the drive line, each seperate gear selection applys a different hydraulic, so I can tell you if it's in the trans, shut the car off as its vibrating and see what happens, it takes alot for the whole car to vibrate the way you say, not just an out of balance converter. But since it was done, anything is possible. I just want to rule the engine and pulley system out. And pinpoint the transaxle. Get back to me with as much info as possible. Drive line will vibrate with everything off. Trans will change with the gear selections and well the converter is always turning so if it was so bad you could feel it shake in any rpm at any gear, it is bolted to the crankshaft, we will go slow and safe, this is the key, safely, don't lock your steering when you bring the key back from run. We'll get it, this I promise. Ok
thanks for the reply. You may have excessive input shaft end play, or the pump may be bad. Or the differential area.
Is this a 3.0L or 3.3L?

It's really tough to find any problem you have while driving when the van is on the ground. I don't know how I helped you but am sure glad it's ok. Good luck and thanks for taking the time to let me know.
Your quite welcome. Anytime.

Basically, it requires that you safely remove the engine weight from the mount, secure the engine, and unbolt and replace the new mount. It really isn't too hard.

There should be three, to remove the side mount, a long bolt that goes through trans that has to be removed as well. If you are removing the engine here is a tip on our tips page. Altough if this is all wheel drive all bets are off on this tips.

You do not have to remove engine and trans as a unit from under the vehicle to replace engine:

Remove all front accessories from engine (W/P, PS. A/C. Idler pullies, etc) remove front motor mount assembly from engine and under radiator, remove radiator assembly, and upper cowl where wipers are. Unbolt rear exh manifold (the one next to firewall). Slide engine over toward pass side as far as it will go. Watch flexplate as you pull engine forward and up.

You have to change all this stuff anyway when installing a new longblock, so what difference does it make if you install it on the engine on a stand or in the vehicle? Saved me alot of time since I didn't have to mess with trans and axles and subframe

I listed all the mounts in my response with the procedure. What step has you confused?

Can you post a picture of the 5 sided bolt?

Roy