1996 Dodge Caravan have tried almost everything

Tiny
SPAREPARTS
  • MEMBER
  • 1996 DODGE CARAVAN
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 175,500 MILES
I am really hoping that someone can help me. I am sorry that I am unable to donate. I have been reading the problems and solutions and "what to check" on this website. Unfortunately, I have found some similar symptoms, but nothing that exactly matches.
Here is the story: When I bought the van in June 2007, the check engine light had been on for 2+ yrs. The people I bought it from said that they had started replacing everything (sensors, etc.) That the scanner said was bad. Then they just stopped, because it was running fine. I have had my transmission (model yr 1995) rebuilt, and it is working fine, except a small leak. The van has still been running fine. Until about a month and a half ago.
I have a 3.8, and I was driving on the interstate at 65 mph, and I completely lost power. I pulled to the side of the road before it stalled. It started, but would only go 5-10 mph. I left it sit for over 2 hrs - then it started right back up. I drove it about 40 miles - at 65 mph - and it did the exact same thing. I had it towed. The scan showed plugs and wires and egr valve. Plugs and wires were replaced. I drove it 4 days without a problem - and was on the interstate at 65 mph - and the same thing happened. I had it towed, and the EGR valve was replaced. The check engine light went out, and it ran fiine for 4 days. It broke down about 6-7 miles from home. Got it started and it ran fine for 20 miles, then same thing. Replaced coil pack with used. Drove fine rest of day - did not go anywhere next day. 2 days after coil pack, broke down in same place 6-7 miles from home. Got started and drove fine. Scanner read P1297/P0401/P1698/P0340/P0700/P0171/P0403. All codes were cleared. Drove 30 miles before check engine light came back on. Van was driving fine. Next day, code P0420 came back. It was not previously there. Van did not break down for 3 weeks and 2 days. (Yea!) After it sat about an hr, it started, (cyl 2 misfire is the only thing that showed up on the scan) and was fine until the next day. It cut out, and took me 2 hrs to drive 10 miles. The fuel pump was replaced. The gauge seemed to be reading the same. 2 days later, it stopped again. After about 1 1/2 hrs, it ran fine. Next day, (yesterday) I checked the codes with the on-off system. It was showing a 12 (ignition switch off recently) and a 43 (ignition coil pack). I drove it 8 miles and left it running at an idle for 30 minutes. It was fine. I then drove it about 7 miles, shut it off, and when I started it up, I pulled onto the road to the stop sign and it stalled. About 40 minutes later, it started, and I took it to Autozone, where the only codes showing were a 1784(manufacture control trans.)/0300 (random cyl misfire) 0301 (cyl 1 misfire)/0302 (cly 2 misfire) and 0700 (trans control syst.). I purchased and installed a NEW coil pack, and it still did not start for about 40 minutes. Drove through town and shut it off (1-2 miles?). After sitting about 2 hrs, it started on the 5th try. I checked for spark (yes), and was told that it did not want to accept throttle.
The only other information that I think is important, is that I need to replace my fuel tank filler neck (with rollover valve). I purchased an aftermarket one, and went to the dealer to get the valve. That is when I found out that the filler neck in my van is not the one that the dealer shows - even with my VIN. The one I have is for a 1997 model. The difference is, there is one line coming off of the one for a 96, and there are 3 lines coming off of the 97. So, with a transmission from 1995, and a fuel tube filler neck from 1997, I am thinking that my van is made from spare parts?

Can ANYONE help me? I am at my wits end and broke.

decided to donate a couple dollars - hope it helps me get an answer faster. Also, after it stalls, when it starts, it pops and spits and sputters for a while. It usually starts on the 4th or 5th time (after it has sat and cooled down).
thanks in advance!

Between the time I asked this question and got an answer, I had the fuel tank filler neck installed. Also, hooked to a scanner and all codes cleared. Drove about 8 miles to gas station and filled tank. When I started it up after filling with gas - it started on the first try - then it spit, sputtered, and popped - then ran fine. The check engine light came back on, and the only code was a lean mixture.

any other suggestions?
Saturday, December 5th, 2009 AT 10:44 AM

1 Reply

Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
Hi spareparts,

Thank you for the donation.

When muitiple sensors fails simultaneously, it seldom is by the components concerned. What is more likely to cause such faults would be a bad control unit or poor wireharness circuit and/or connections.

As the problem seems to occur at almost the same driving distance, I would think it is a fault with a power supply or grounding circuit. When contacts are poor, they would heat up over time with engine running and when too high resistance are present, it can cause the various sensors to fails.

I would suggest rechecking all the wireharness condition, connector terminals and ground circuit installation. Check the ECM and its connectors for contaminations.

When engine stalled, note if the dash inidicators lights are showing, if not, you might have ab bad ignition switch.

Check main fuses terminals for signs of overheating which indicates loose contacts.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, December 6th, 2009 AT 5:52 AM

Please login or register to post a reply.

Sponsored links