Engine will not start?

If the check engine light didn't come on, I would guess there is a problem with fuel pressure. Have you replaced the fuel filter? Also, when you removed the fuel line (before your wife turned the key) was it under pressure? When you turn the key to the on position without cranking the engine over can you hear the fuel pump run in the tank for 5 seconds?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run down this guide and report back. Let me know.

CAR TURNS OVER BUT NO START IF YOU LET SET OVERNIGHT IT WILL START UP AND AFTER SOME TIME IT WILL STOP AGAIN

Crank but no start condition:

Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine atleast 3/16 away from ground-have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs,coil's resistances,distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it

enter your question...2005 T&C. I was driving, turned a corner and it died, now won't start. Used a scanner and got no codes. HELP

dont know but sounds like a loose / broken wire to me has this problem happened before like on a rough patch of road. Also scanners only work if the check engine light is on while the engine is running.

Have you checked to see if it is getting spark and fuel to the engine?

i was driving my van down the highway and it suddenly stopped as if the engine simply disappeared. I pulled over and turned the key off and back on to see if it would start but it would not start. It had dash lights but absolutely no ignition turn over. Checked under hood and found the fuse to the fuel pump was blown. The battery was dead. Prior to that week, the alternator ha dbeen aking odd noises. maybe alternator drained battery causing malfunction in electric system...is this possible? suggestions?

Get the alternator load tested -start here

you shouldve had some warning lights (battery light ,check engine light )

suspect bad alternator 1st
charge battery and start engine ,check charging system and alternator

That was the strange part...no warning lights.

A lot of replacing. the plugs and wires the coil pack, crank shaft position sensor, cam shaft position sensor. still no start. you can smell gas so I know the fuel pump works. The last test I tried was to check spark from the coil pack, there was none. What could cause this?

Good evening,

I would start with a compression test to be sure the timing is correct.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

Roy

My T&C seems to have an intermittent vapor lock problem and only during the summer.

It runs fine, stop and shut it off, half of the time it will restart, no problem. Other times it will stumble for a few seconds, like it is vapor locking, and die, then will not restart for anywhere from 5 minutes to two hours. HELP!

The first thing is to have the diagnostic fault codes read and recorded. The people at most auto parts stores will do that for you for free. The next thing is to check for spark when the engine cranks but won't run. If that is missing, there are two sensors that commonly fail by becoming heat-sensitive, then they work again after cooling down for an hour.

There are no codes when this happens, that's what is maddening about this!! I didn't think about checking for spark, I'll do that tomorrow. Also, are you talking about the cam and crank sensors?

Thanks for the help!!!

Yup, those are them. Often they won't set a fault code because there isn't enough time as the engine coasts to a stop, or the conditions to set the code aren't met during cranking. In that case you need a scanner to view live data to see which signal is missing. I have Chrysler's DRB3 scanner which lists both sensors as "No" or "Present" during cranking.

Also be aware the cam sensor is adjustable and the air gap is critical. They need to be installed with a special spacer. If you guess, like I did once, that can result in an intermittent stalling problem.