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1969 Chevy Truck 1969 Chevy C10 Thermostat Housing Gasket

Tiny
TOKI TOVER
  • MEMBER
  • 1969 CHEVROLET TRUCK
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 74,000 MILES
Hi,

I have a 69 Chevy C10 V8 350 long bed, that has a bit of a coolant puddle on top the engine. I am thinking its the thermostat housing gasket. Pictures attached. My question is how do I change this out :)

I just got this truck for Christmas as a project car and I want to do this right :)

Do you guys have detailed instructions on how to do something like this from start to finish with pictures (or without)? Also is there a factory repair manual I could buy for this exact truck?

Thanks guys!

Toki Tover


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/454785_DSC00031_1.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/454785_DSC00039_1.jpg

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Monday, December 28th, 2009 AT 2:23 PM

22 Replies

Tiny
OBXAUTOMEDIC
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Hello,

It is very simple.

All you have to do is remove the 2 bolts on the chrome housing, lift off, clean off old gasket from both surfaces, put new gasket in place can use some gasket sealer to hold in place, but do not use much.
Replace bolts and tighten.

.
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Monday, December 28th, 2009 AT 2:48 PM
Tiny
TOKI TOVER
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Thanks - sounds easy enough, even for a girl!

Anyway, Do you guys have a detailed factory repair manual for this exact truck?

Toki Tover
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Monday, December 28th, 2009 AT 2:58 PM
Tiny
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It is very easy.

We don't have them specifically for sale here. You should be able to get on from your local parts store. But it will cost about $80 - $100 or so. Or you can click the link at the bottom of each post about find you repair manual and you can subscribe to and online manual for $19.95 a year.

.
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Monday, December 28th, 2009 AT 6:51 PM
Tiny
TOKI TOVER
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Hey again,

Ok I have changed out the gasket and the housing as well. The chrome housing was peeling. So is there any other procedure I need to do after everything is tightened up good and filled the coolant back up as well. I was reading around about air lock or bleeding the cooling system.

Is this something I need to do after?

Thanks guys!

Toki
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Saturday, January 2nd, 2010 AT 8:50 PM
Tiny
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No, the only time you really need to worry about air in the system is when the water pump is changed. And the reason it tends to happen is because you loose more coolant from the engine block. Just changing out the thermostat and gasket won't create that problem.

When filling with coolant you just need to make sure the mix is correct should be a 50/50 mix for best results.

If not sure your local parts store should sell a coolant tester.

.

.
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Sunday, January 3rd, 2010 AT 7:35 PM
Tiny
TOKI TOVER
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Hey Thanks! It runs great!

BUT

It still is leaking a bit from one small area. Should I be adding some type of silicone or something else to ensure a proper seal so it stops leaking?

Do you have any suggestions on what to use for that?

Thanks

Toki
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Wednesday, January 6th, 2010 AT 7:37 PM
Tiny
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If it is still leaking a little it is possible that the surface has some abnormalities and using some sealant would be needed. You can just ask for a tube of sealant at your local parts store.

.
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Wednesday, January 6th, 2010 AT 9:09 PM
Tiny
GRS
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The reason the thermostat housing is leaking is because the housing is a cheap chrome housing. It is warped. I put these on 2 different cars, and they both leaked. You need to place it on a flat surface, and look under it. And you can rock it back and forth. This will show you how much it is warped. Now lay it flat on a flat surface on top of sand paper, and move it back and forth while pressing down hard. Don't use to course sand paper. This will take time. It will become flat if it is not warped to much. You can email me at. Gsgman2@sbcglobal. Net I live in Joliet Il. Grady
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Saturday, January 23rd, 2010 AT 10:59 AM
Tiny
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Hello GRS,

She did change out the housing as well as the gasket. The pic is of the problem before repair.

.
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Tuesday, January 26th, 2010 AT 6:12 PM
Tiny
TOKI TOVER
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Hey obxautomedic,

I have another question, it's about the charging system.

Is there a way to test the charging system, or to see if there is a constant drain being put on the battery from somewhere?

Now I just went out and bought a die-hard battery for the truck. When I started the truck everyday for a couple months, the battery seems to stay charged. It would start great.

But I let it go for almost 4 days without starting and now the voltage for the battery is at 10V. & The truck will not start.

Could there be a constant drain on the battery somewhere with the truck? How would I begin something like that?

Help?

Thanks,

Toki Tover
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Sunday, January 31st, 2010 AT 5:47 PM
Tiny
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Hey Toki,

Yes and Yes...

Check link below for Checking Alternator. But you will need a DVOM (Digital Volt Ohm Meter).

https://www.2carpros.com/how_to/how_to_test_alternator.htm

To test for a draw you will need either a DVOM or Test Light.

First make sure everything is off and if there is an under hood light remove it.

Then remove the Negative Cable from Battery. Connect either the test light or the DVOM between the Battery Terminal and the cable.

If using DVOM if it shows more than 000 then you have a draw.

If using a test light then if the Light comes on you have a draw.

In order to find the circuit the draw is on just start pulling fuses one at a time checking the light or DVOM after each fuse.

Once light goes out or DVOM shows 000 then you have found the cicuit the draw is on.

Once found post the fuse # and if you have the user manual look up the items the circuit covers.

We will determine posibly causes.

.
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Sunday, January 31st, 2010 AT 10:20 PM
Tiny
GRS
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I noticed when I connected the ground cable to the battery I saw a slight spark. Then I noticed that the head lights where turned on. I turned the lights off, and connected the battery, and no spark. The hard part is finding where the voltage is.
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Monday, February 1st, 2010 AT 3:25 PM
Tiny
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Not sure what you are asking if anything.

.
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Tuesday, February 2nd, 2010 AT 7:43 PM
Tiny
GRS
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I was trying to reply to Toki Tover's question about his battery going dead. Should I reply under his question where it says Quote? The spark when I connect the ground cable tells me there is a current draw. This can cause the battery to go dead.
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Wednesday, February 3rd, 2010 AT 7:00 PM
Tiny
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Hey obxautomedic,

Ok, I had a test light and pulled the fuses one by one until the light went out.

The one that I pulled out, which made the light go out, was labeled "CIG." I attached the picture of the plug and the fuse box for you to see.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/454785_DSCN18341_1.jpg



This picture below was the plug for that fuse.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/454785_DSCN18381_1.jpg



What are my next steps to figure out why it is creating a draw?

Thanks!

Toki
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Saturday, March 20th, 2010 AT 9:54 PM
Tiny
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Ok, That is you Cigarett Lighter.

Does it work?

Do you have anything plugged into it?

In the Pic of the wires I see what looks like someone tied into the circuit. Can you see were the Yellow Wire goes to?

.
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Sunday, March 21st, 2010 AT 11:42 AM
Tiny
TOKI TOVER
  • MEMBER
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No, the cigarette lighter does not work. I looked and there was nothing connected the the back of the lighter assembly itself.

I also noticed the radio did not work after I pulled the plug out. So that yellow wire seems to be the power wire for the radio. Where should I wire the radio power to?

I also got a meter, picture below, but if I wanted to check for a draw, how could I set the meter up to check the battery?


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/454785_DSCN18401_1.jpg



I wanted to know because I left the truck overnight with the battery hooked up and that CIG. plug pulled, yet the voltage in the morning was 12.1V

The voltage of the battery with the truck running was at 14.2V - Do you think that it could be the alternator doing this?

Thanks!

Toki
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Sunday, March 21st, 2010 AT 2:41 PM
Tiny
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What was the voltage of the battery the night before?

The 14.2 is the Charging volts or the Output of the Alternator and that is good.

A fully charged battery should be 12.60v if you are starting with this and it drops to 12.1v overnight night then yes it could be, however, if the test light went out when you pulled the Cig wire then it has to be on that curcuit.

Ok, have you pulled the radio to look at the wiring harness on the back? Also does the radio have a digital clock. The Main power wire for the radio should be wired into a fuse the is only powered when key is turned on. If it has a digital clock there will be I beleive a pink wire that should be wired to a continuous power source. The draw is so small it does not drain the battery and will not show up on the test light draw test.

.
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Monday, March 22nd, 2010 AT 9:33 PM
Tiny
TOKI TOVER
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I figured it all out with what was happening with the battery draw.

There were two wires connected, one to power the radio and one that powered the tachometer. I have since then changed that all and just got a die hard battery!

NOW, I am deploying for 6 months and I need to store it.

What do I need to do to prepare the truck for storage?

I am storing it in a storage unit 12x30 feet for 6 months.

Thanks!
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Saturday, September 25th, 2010 AT 8:10 PM
Tiny
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Hi Toki,

What you should do is Disconnect the batter, and if the is and electrical plug in the storage unit, purchase a battery maintainer, its a little trickle charger or a 2 amp automatic charger, which will turn off automatically when battery is fully charged and kick on if battery drops below a certain level.

Thank You for what you do. And be Safe.

.
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Sunday, September 26th, 2010 AT 8:44 AM

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