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1998 Chevy Camaro fuel pump failed and replaced

Tiny
STICKJUMPERS
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 CHEVROLET CAMARO
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 122,000 MILES
Hello,
The fuel pump on this car failed and was extracted by cutting a hole in the floor of the car. A replacement pump was purchased and fitted, the pump produces pressure and fuel up to the pressure regulatin valve positioned aft of the rocker cover and very inaccessable, we know it is coming there as fuel appears when breaking in to the line at the wheel arch. No fuel after the valve, when schrader valve depressed, to telieve system pressure nothing evident. I am dubious of the failure of two components similtaniously and would like to know if anyone could shed some light. I do not know what the cylinder layout is as the car belongs to a work coligue and I'm just helping with research however I do know it is 5.8 Litre, and late 1990's, thanks in advance. Mike.
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Saturday, March 20th, 2010 AT 10:25 AM

11 Replies

Tiny
JDL
  • MECHANIC
  • 16,098 POSTS
Before anything was replaced, did they check for voltage and ground at the fuel pump connector, engine cranking? Gray wire is voltage, black wire is ground. Can you tell if pump is running? When you first turn the key on, no crank, can you hear the pump? If no rpm signal, other than the initial prime, the pump won't run. I can't tell for sure what is going on unless somebody can do some testing?
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Saturday, March 20th, 2010 AT 11:29 AM
Tiny
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Hello and thanks sos far, yes voltage was evident before pump removed, however, I was interested to hear the issue of speed signal requirement, please could you tell me where the unit senses speed signal and how to check, it might have been thiis was the problem in the first place and the fuel evident when cracking the lines is the prime as you say. Many thanks once again, on turning the key, should the pump be heard running constantly or only for the prime?Mike.
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Saturday, March 20th, 2010 AT 9:13 PM
Tiny
JDL
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When you first turn the key on, no crank, the pump should run for a couple seconds then stop, unless the computer sees an rpm signal, can't be rpm signal without cranking. Engine cranking, is there spark at the plugs? The rpm signal comes from the crank sensor, can't say sensor is faulty without doing some checking.
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Sunday, March 21st, 2010 AT 11:12 AM
Tiny
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  • 6 POSTS
Hi Again,
Just discovered The car is 1996 V8 5.8litre automatic if that makes a difference.

Would the rev/ tacho counter indicate while cranking on the key if the crank sensor was faulty giving a clue or is it a separate pick off for drivers indication?

Where would I find the crank sensor?

What voltage output would be expected when cranking?

Will be at the car checking what you suggested tomorrow, however answers to the last questions would sure help Many thanks for everything so far.

Is there a link to a wiring diagrame for this system you could assist with?

Mike.
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Sunday, March 21st, 2010 AT 11:30 AM
Tiny
JDL
  • MECHANIC
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Yeah, the model year makes a difference. With the engine cranking, visually check for spark at the plugs. If you have spark everywhere, use a noid lite and check for injector pulse. If there is an injector pulse, the rpm signal is present, the computer sees it.

There should be a fuel pump test connector, under the hood, passenger side, behind shock tower, red wire with electrical connector, nothing plugged into the connector. If you use a jumper wire with inline fuse from battery voltage to connector, the fuel pump should run. You don't need to use the key, crank it or anything. If the pump won't run, I'd have to check proper terminals at the pump connector for voltage and ground, if that checks ok and no pump action, I suspect the pump.
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Sunday, March 21st, 2010 AT 12:52 PM
Tiny
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Hi again, thanks so far.
Q. Does the RPM sensor if failed inhibit the spark?
Q. Where is the rpm sensor to test?
Q. Does the resistor in the ignition key play any part if it is faulty and won/t talk to the key barrel/
we hav enot got access to a noid light, they do not rent/sell them here, we are remote in the desert. Any other way to check injector pulsing?
Thanks again.
Mike.
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Tuesday, March 23rd, 2010 AT 2:15 PM
Tiny
JDL
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Yes, the theft system could be an issue. Is the security lite on the dash, on or flashing, when trying to start? I can't help you bypass, if that is the problem. Do you have the optispark ignition? Engine cranking, did you visually check for spark at the plugs?
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Wednesday, March 24th, 2010 AT 8:52 AM
Tiny
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Hi again, not yet checked for spark, do that tomorrow on day off. We found a fix for the anti theft bu making a bridge with the correct value resistor. Will get back to you with the type of ignition.
Once again, can you help with the location of the rpm sensor? Many thanks, Mike.
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Wednesday, March 24th, 2010 AT 10:06 AM
Tiny
JDL
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My first thought is the optical sensor, if you have optispark ignition. The optical sensor is in the distributor. The database I looked at, doesn't give a crank sensor location for the 5.7, may not be one, although the wiring diagram does how it? If you had one, it should be behind the harmonic balancer/ lower crank pulley. If there is a problem on a wiring circuit somewhere, replacing the sensor won't fix it.
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Wednesday, March 24th, 2010 AT 10:35 AM
Tiny
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Hello again,
Could you tell me from information available what functions does the anti theft inhibit, spark? Fuel? Will it crank? If system faulty or wrong key tried. This might save us going up a blind ally if can be eliminated.
Cheers, Mike.
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Wednesday, March 24th, 2010 AT 11:03 PM
Tiny
JDL
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I don't know what else to tell you. Bypassing the pellet in the key won't help if there is a problem elsewhere in the theft system. I guess, I would have to look at it.

Usually your type system disables starter and injectors. I don't have anymore info, goodluck.
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Thursday, March 25th, 2010 AT 8:28 AM

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