Car turns off while driving and then causes problems?

Tiny
LOPEZISS000
  • MEMBER
  • 2015 DODGE CHARGER
  • 3.6L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 126,000 MILES
So, I have a broken parking brake inside the vehicle, and I have a “service electronic stabilizer” message, the only lights on are ABS and traction control light without the off. The car will drive and shift normally for about 10 minutes then it will shut off out of nowhere and tell me to shift to p and turn on again. Only when this happens it takes longer for the car to start, and it feels like it’s fighting against the parking brake. I don’t even know where to start. Check engine light is on but it’s for ambient temperature sensor which is nothing important.
Thursday, March 28th, 2024 AT 8:18 PM

4 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,205 POSTS
Hi,

Reading through everything, there isn't anything that should cause the engine to shut off. Does this only happen when the engine is warm? Also, let me know what code you have as far as the ambient air temperature sensor.

Do me a favor. Read through this link and let me know if anything mirrors what you are experiencing.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor

Let me know.

Take care,

Joe

Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, March 28th, 2024 AT 8:38 PM
Tiny
LOPEZISS000
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Yes it does it only when warm.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, March 28th, 2024 AT 9:35 PM
Tiny
LOPEZISS000
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
It feels like whenever this happens the car feels like the parking brake is on.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, March 28th, 2024 AT 9:37 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 42,912 POSTS
It sounds like the car is going into limp mode, I would do a CAN scan which will go over all systems in the car. You can get a CAN scanner (Controller Area Network) which will work on most cars from Amazon.

Here is a video to show you how:

https://youtu.be/u-4syLc-ifQ

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/can-scan-controller-area-network-easy

I have seen a bad PCM cause this issue, there should be more codes and if not, I would try a rebuilt PCM you can get a preprogrammed unit by searching Google or Ebay. Here is the location and how to change the unit out.

Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable.
Remove the cowl plenum cover/grille panel from over the wiper module (Refer to 23 - Body/Exterior/COVER, Cowl Panel/Removal) .
Remove the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) retaining bolt (1).
Disconnect the PCM electrical connectors (2).
Remove the PCM (3) from the vehicle.
If required, remove the noise plug (3) from the PCM (4).
If required, remove the PCM mounting bracket (1) retaining nuts (2) and remove the bracket.

INSTALLATION

If removed, position the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) mounting bracket (1) onto the PCM (4), install the two retaining nuts (2) and tighten to the proper (Torque Specifications) .
If removed, install the noise plug (3) onto the PCM.

NOTE:
Prior to reconnecting the electrical connectors to the PCM, check the pins in the electrical connectors for misalignment and/or damage. Repair as necessary.

Position the PCM (3) into the vehicle.
Connect the PCM harness connectors (2).
Position the PCM bracket to the cross support, install the retaining bolt (1) and tighten to the proper (Torque Specifications) .
Install the cowl plenum cover/grille panel over the wiper linkage module (Refer to 23 - Body/Exterior/COVER, Cowl Panel/Installation) .
Connect the negative battery cable.

NOTE:
If a new PCM is installed, it must be programed with the original Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) and mileage. If this is not done, a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) may set.

Check out the images (below). Please upload pictures or videos in your response to the problem so we can see what's going on.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, March 30th, 2024 AT 10:44 AM

Please login or register to post a reply.

Sponsored links