Car pouring out coolant possible bad water pump

Tiny
SARAHNUGENT2015
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 CHRYSLER PACIFICA
  • 3.5L
  • V6
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 155,000 MILES
Went to get gas and decided to check fluids before going on a 40 minute drive. Noticed there wasn't any coolant in reservoir and huge puddle underneath. Went inside gas station to purchase $17.00 coolant and went to fill it up and it was just pouring out underneath. Went around corner to our local repair shop that was closing for the day and was told it was our water pump. I didn't want to drive it thought it would do damage so parked it and they are going to work on it tomorrow. Guy mentioned it could cost $300.00 to $400.00? I didn't think water pump would go out so soon since that and timing was done a few years ago when we purchased vehicle. Was told a year ago our motor mounts would need to be replaced soon would this have caused water pump to fail? My fiancé and repair shop normally does all the work on this SUV and it seems we keep pouring money into it to keep her running since it is our family's only vehicle. Does the timing belt and thermostat need to be replaced now when redoing water pump? I mean what all should I expect. The other day I smelled a faint burning smell but then went away I popped the hood and didn't see anything out of the normal other than small coolant leak thinking maybe possible hose is worn out. I don't drive very far but it has been difficult to get up to speed. It makes a noise when trying to get up to speed on highway. Like throttle is getting stuck or choked. Not really sure what it is. I have mentioned this to fiancé and repair shop but it never fixed the issue with all the hundreds of dollars probably thousands by now in repairs that we have spent on vehicle. Including catalytic converters replaced. What all can I expect this is our only family vehicle and I keep pouring out money to keep her running. I mean as long as you maintain your vehicle they should last? I just feel like it keeps breaking and I don't have a lot of money since I lost my job due to pandemic. What all can I expect?
Saturday, March 27th, 2021 AT 12:18 AM

1 Reply

Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Good morning,

The first thing you do is have a pressure test done to identify the exact location of the leak. The water pump is an expensive guess.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/radiator-pressure-test

If it is the pump, the timing belt has to be removed to gain access to the pump.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-timing-belt-works

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/water-pump-replacement

Yes, I would replace the thermostat while the repair is being done. If that is bad, that could be the reason for the failure.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-thermostat

Roy

WATER PUMP
REMOVAL
3.5L ENGINE
The water pump on all models can be replaced without discharging the air conditioning system.

WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE PRESSURE CAP WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE BECAUSE SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN OCCUR.

NOTE: It is normal for the water pump to weep a small amount of coolant from the weep hole (black stain on water pump body). Do not replace the water pump if this condition exists. Replace the water pump if a heavy deposit or a steady flow of engine coolant is evident on water pump body from the weep hole (shaft seal failure). Be sure to perform a thorough analysis before replacing water pump.

1) Drain cooling system.

NOTE: The water pump is driven by the timing belt.

2) Remove engine timing belt.

imageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

3) Remove water pump mounting bolts (Fig. 30). Note position of longer bolt for proper re-installation.
4) Remove water pump body from engine (Fig. 30).

CLEANING
Clean gasket mating surfaces as necessary.

INSPECTION
3.5L ENGINE
Inspect and replace the water pump if it has any of the following defects:
1) Damage or cracks on the pump body
2) Coolant leaks; if the seal is leaking, this will be evident by traces of thick deposits of dried glycol running down the pump body and components below. A thin black stain below pump weep hole/passage is considered normal operation.
3) Impeller rubs inside of the rear timing belt cover.
4) Excessively loose or rough turning bearing.

NOTE: It is normal for the water pump to weep a small amount of coolant from the weep hole (black stain on water pump body). Do not replace the water pump if this condition exists. Replace the water pump if a heavy deposit or a steady flow of engine coolant is evident on water pump body. This indicates a shaft seal failure and pump must be replaced. Be sure to perform a thorough analysis before replacing water pump.

TIMING BELT AND SPROCKETS
REMOVAL - TIMING BELT

TIMING VERIFICATION
Remove the outer timing covers. Rotate the crankshaft until the pointer on the crankshaft sprocket aligns the TDC mark on the oil pump. Check to determine if the camshaft sprocket timing marks are aligned with the marks on the inner timing cover. It may take an additional full revolution of the crankshaft before the camshaft sprocket marks are aligned (Fig. 169).

CAUTION: The 3.5L is NOT a freewheeling engine. Therefore, loosen the valve train rocker assemblies before servicing the timing drive.

1) Perform fuel pressure release procedure.
2) Disconnect negative battery cable.
3) Remove both cylinder head covers and loosen the rocker arm assemblies.
4) Remove the front timing belt cover.
5) Mark belt running direction, if timing belt is to be reused.

CAUTION: When aligning timing marks, always rotate engine by turning the crankshaft. Failure to do so will result in valve and/or piston damage.

imageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

6) Rotate engine clockwise until crankshaft mark aligns with the TDC mark on oil pump housing and the camshaft sprocket timing marks are aligned with the marks on the rear cover (Fig. 169)
7) Remove the timing belt tensioner (Fig. 169) and remove timing belt.
8) Inspect the tensioner for fluid leakage.
9) Inspect the pivot and bolt for free movement, bearing grease leakage, and smooth rotation. If not rotating freely, replace the arm and pulley assembly
10) When tensioner is removed from the engine it is necessary to compress the plunger into the tensioner body

CAUTION: Index the tensioner in the vise the same way it is installed on the engine. This ensures proper pin orientation when tensioner is installed on the engine.

imageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

a) Place the tensioner into a vise and SLOWLY compress the plunger (Fig. 170). Total bleed down of tensioner should take about 5 minutes.
b) When plunger is compressed into the tensioner body install a pin through the body and plunger to retain plunger in place until tensioner is installed.

INSPECTION
TIMING VERIFICATION

imageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

Remove the outer timing covers. Rotate the crankshaft until the pointer on the crankshaft sprocket (10) (Fig. 175) aligns the TDC mark on the oil pump (9). Check to determine if the camshaft sprocket (2, 7) timing marks (1, 8) are aligned with the marks on the inner timing cover. It may take an additional full revolution of the crankshaft before the camshaft sprocket marks are aligned.

INSPECTION - TIMING BELT
1) Remove front timing belt cover.

imageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

2) Inspect both sides of the timing belt. Replace belt if any of the following conditions exist (Fig. 176):
a) Hardening of back rubber back side is glossy without resilience and leaves no indent when pressed with fingernail.
b) Cracks on rubber back.
c) Cracks or peeling of canvas.
d) Cracks on rib root.
e) Cracks on belt sides.
f) Missing teeth.
g) Abnormal wear of belt sides. The sides are normal if they are sharp as if cut by a knife.
h) Vehicle mileage or time at component maintenance requirement.
3) If none of the above conditions are seen on the belt, the front timing belt cover can be installed.

TIMING BELT

CAUTION: If camshafts have moved from the timing marks, always rotate camshaft towards the direction nearest to the timing marks (DO NOT TURN CAMSHAFTS A FULL REVOLUTION OR DAMAGE to valves and/or pistons could result).

imageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

1) Align the crankshaft sprocket (10) (Fig. 179) with the TDC mark (9) on oil pump cover.
2) Align the camshaft sprockets (2, 7) timing reference marks (1, 8) with the marks on the rear cover.
3) Install the timing belt starting at the crankshaft sprocket (10) going in a counterclockwise direction. Install the belt around the last sprocket. Maintain tension on the belt as it is positioned around the tensioner pulley (11).

NOTE: If the camshaft gears have been removed it is only necessary to have the camshaft gear retaining bolts installed to a snug torque at this time.

4) Holding the tensioner pulley (11) against the belt, install the tensioner into the housing and tighten to 28 Nm (250 inch lbs.). Each camshaft sprocket mark should remain aligned the cover marks.
5) When tensioner is in place pull retaining pin to allow the tensioner to extend to the pulley bracket.
6) Rotate crankshaft sprocket 2 revolutions and check the timing marks on the camshafts and crankshaft. The marks should line up within their respective locations. If marks do not line up, repeat procedure.

NOTE: If camshaft gears have been removed and timing is correct, counterhold and tighten the camshaft gears to final torque specification.

7) Install the front timing belt cover.
8) Tighten the rocker arm assemblies and install the cylinder head covers.
9) Connect negative battery cable.

ENGINE COOLANT THERMOSTAT
REMOVAL
3.5L ENGINE

WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE PRESSURE CAP WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE BECAUSE SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN OCCUR.

1) Disconnect negative cable from remote jumper terminal.
2) Drain cooling system.

imageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

3) Disconnect radiator upper hose from thermostat housing (1) (Fig. 12).
4) Remove thermostat housing bolts (2) (Fig. 12).
5) Remove housing, thermostat, and gasket.

INSTALLATION
3.5L ENGINE
1) Clean gasket sealing surfaces.
2) Install thermostat and gasket into thermostat housing. For ease of installation, install bolts in housing for thermostat and gasket retention.
3) Install thermostat and housing to Intake manifold (Fig. 12). Tighten bolts to 12 Nm (105 inch lbs.).
4) Connect radiator hoses and install hose clamp.
5) Refill cooling system.
6) Connect negative cable to remote jumper terminal.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, March 27th, 2021 AT 4:26 AM

Please login or register to post a reply.

Sponsored links