A/C light blinking

Hello. I think you ohmed out the compressor lock sensor. See image below and I hope this is what you were searching for. Let us know if this helped.

Yes, that's what I homed. Can't seem to figure out why A/C light keeps flashing.

Sorry for the late reply. Verify that you have battery voltage at the clutch. You will need an assistant. If there is a problem with the clutch, you will see battery voltage for a second or two before it goes away. If that happens then the A/C compressor is faulty. I would recommend you replace the compressor with the clutch along with receiver drier.

Yes, the compressor comes on for about 2 to 3 minutes, then kicks off and starts blinking.

Clutch does engage.

I tried to recharge, but the compressor not engaged long enough to do it.

You may want to start with replacing the magnetic clutch relay as a first step. The contacts could be opening up once the engine bay gets warm.

Where is the magnetic clutch relay? AutoZone and dealership show it's a 4-prong relay but the A/C relay under my dash on driver side next to fuse box inside is a 5-prong. So, what am I missing?

Also, my headlights stay on even when I turn them off. So, I was wondering if the solar sensor affects both the A/C and headlights.

I am posting the diagnostic procedure for the compressor. I apologize that I overlooked the possibility that you could be low on refrigerant, causing the clutch to disengage.

I posted how to check the compressor properly. If you can rent some gauges from your local parts store get them and measure the pressures and post them on here. If it is low then following the compressor clutch inspection, you will be able to turn the compressor on so that it can take in the refrigerant. Let us know if you need further assistance.

Okay, I have one question about testing lock sensor resistance. Do I start the van and it's 91 outside so what should it read if it's supposed to be running or turned off?

Vehicle off. Let me know what you measured.

Okay, I will test when I get off work.

Ohms read 113.9 at outside temperature 85 ° f.

I have to wait to get gauges, out of money.

The reading is good. As for gauges, I thought AutoZone or Oriley's would let you borrow them?

They do but you have to rent them then when you return them you get the money back. I just don't have money to do that right now.

Is there a way to test the A/C without the gauges?

Check out this link:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-air-conditioner-not-working-or-is-weak

Okay, everything is good according to article, but the A/C light is blinking. how do I retrieve this A/C code on a non-digital control panel?

The van listed above is an XLE model.

There is no digital display screen on the control panel, just turn knobs and one A/C button that has a blinking light.

The article was supposed to help you use a can of refrigerant with a gauge on it to measure the pressure. As far as retrieving codes you would need an enhanced scanner. You cannot manually retrieve them. What we're trying to do is figure out if you're low on refrigerant or have a bad compressor.

The next images I am posting hopefully will help you determine if you're low on refrigerant or not. You would need to remove the glove box out of the way to access the A/C amplifier. You will need to back probe pin number 3 on the connector with the power lead and the other lead grounded anywhere on a ground point. If you have voltage the system is full, if you have no voltage, you're either empty or overfilled.

If you do have voltage indicating the system is full and the compressor clutch disengages and A/C light blinks, then that would strongly be an indicator your compressor could be faulty. Highlighted the pin and the specs for you and the location of the A/C amplifier. I hope these images help you out.

I just saw something you wrote when I turn on the A/C the cooling fan at radiator does go faster just normal speed. I will check the amplifier and do that test. When I hook it up to a can of refrigerant with an ordinary gauge it reads full before it kicks off. Just wondering and it just popped up in my mind the fans are normally supposed to go faster than at regular setting that is when it's just operating to cool coolant right.
I meant the fans only go one speed whether the A/C is turned or not. But they turn on just for 30 seconds then kick off before the compressor kicks off.

So, this van has two A/C relays: one for front and one for rear?

What did the gauge reading read? The condenser fan speed will be high when the compressor comes on. It will turn off when the compressor is off. The radiator fan will do what it has to depending on coolant temperature and is a separate component.

On my gauge it read 45 while compressor on 89 while off. Condenser fan was at low speed.

Can you submit a picture of the reading?

I will try tomorrow.

I didn't know there were two A/C relays. I'll try to replace the front heater relay as soon as I can.

I just want to jump in on this because I suspect we are overlooking the basic things that may help with this.

The most common cause of the compressor cutting off and the light blinking is due to incorrect pressure in the system.

I see that you are checking the low side pressure and it is 45 PSI when the compressor is on and 89 with it off.

What is the high side when you are checking this? I am attaching a chart below that will help with this.

So, we need to know three things to start, or we are going to chase this for a while longer.

First, we need to know what the ambient/outside temperature is. If you have 45 PSI when the compressor is on, then it should be around 85 degrees. Is that correct?

Next, we need to know the low side.

Lastly the high side pressure. If these are not correct, then the module can cut the compressor off, and it flashes the light to tell you there is an issue.

So, we need a gauge set to check the high and low side while this is running.

Without this info we are going to chase our tail.

I don't have money to rent an ac manifold set so I can only check low side right now.

I must have a leak pressure has dropped back to 23 with compressor on before it cuts off. So, when I get some money I'll do the leak test to try and find it.

Outside air temperature is 68°f when I took last pressure it was 89°outside air temperature.

I understand. Unfortunately, I think that is the wisest choice. Without that info, you would potentially end up spending more at trying to take the best guess.

You can have a blockage and cause this. However, what was the ambient temperature when you took the measurement, and it was 23 PSI?

If that was taken when it was 68 outside, then that may be correct. Take a look at the chart and the lower the ambient temperature the lower the pressure.

However, just confirming the low side is correct is going to point us in the wrong direction without confirming that the high side is correct as well.

Thanks for the update. Let us know as we will be here. Thanks

I have been trying to borrow gauges from someone I know, but nobody has any and I don't have any money to rent some from the auto part stores. But I did recheck low pressure and yes, it's 91 and according to the chart it's right where it should be. It's at 48 with an ambient temperature at 91 degrees f.

How do I get to the front heater relay on passenger side?

Please see the attached info per your request.

As for the blinking light, if we want to assume the pressure is correct on the high side then that would mean there is a drive belt issue, or the module is the issue.

Take a look at the info below and let me know if you have questions on this.

Thanks

Whatsoever it mean apply b+ to 3-5.

What does it mean?