2004 Ford F-250 Repair Question
Ford F-250 Engine Problem
I would first look for any check engine lights. Check the code and this will lead you in the right direction. It could be a number of things. If your truck has a MAF sensor, you can clean that for starters. Check the spark source (not sure if it has coil packs or distributor but check wires and plugs and coil packs are firing) for each cylinder.
There could also be a timing issue from the sounds of things but start there and see where that takes you.
I have the 6.0 Diesel. I'm not getting any check engine light. When I unplug the VGT solenoid, I get better response and power from 700-2000 rpms, but then bad acceleration beyond that. When I plug in the VGT solenoid, I get black smoke and bad hesitation. It takes a few seconds but then it kicks in and I have normal power and acceleration. It only smokes and hesitates when I first take off. Once the rpms are up everything is normal.
Sometimes the ECU can still throw a code and not a check engine light. I would swing by Autozone or wherever you can get your codes pulled for free and check just to make sure because either way you slice it, your truck isn't running right and it's free. What it sounds like to me is your EGR valve is plugged.
Youtube vid- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f5ToASEao8U
Thanks. I was thinkiong of that just wasnt sure. Also I did not know that with out a check engine light that the ECU would still show a code. Once again thanks.
The EGR was definetly clogged up. The exhaust port was completely blocked and the valve was stuck. I cleaned it really good. Reinstall it and I'm still getting a hesitation when i start out, but its not as bad as it was. I'm getting a little more black smoke. The response is much better. Could the air filter be causing the black smoke?
Usually black smoke indicates an overly rich condition. Assuming the F250 is a MAF ran engine, a leak post metering will cause the black smoke/hesitation. Check all your couplers and make sure they are tight. Boost leaks could cause the same issue.
See attached picture-
These are known to rip, use a mirror to see behind/underneath. They have been known to also rip right at the clamps to where you can't see the rip, so you might want to remove the clamps to inspect boot.
In the picture you can see the blue boot top/right. The red hose in this picture goes to the MAP sensor, yours will most likely be a black hose. You can check that hose out for damage also, and while your at it clean that black hose and brass fitting in the intake. Some times soot will block up the hose and fitting.
Have you noticed any black soot in the engine bay? You may also have an exhaust leak. Check the turbine exhaust housing and manifolds.
2003/04 Computer Programming Recall 06E17:
Truck built before 9-29-03 are being recalled to have the computer reprogrammed. The reason for this recall is to correct fuel injection timing during cold operation, EGR valve control, lack of power, check engine light illumination (P02263 or P0299), hard starting and rough running concerns related to Exhaust BackPressure sensor corrosion. Other symptoms not listed in this recall, but which could occur, would be excessive smoke, turbo control and surging at idle or cruise. The new update eliminates the EBP sensor input to the computer. The exhaust backpressure will now be inferred/calculated using other sensor signals. Trucks should be reprogrammed using versions 41.8 or 42.1 or higher.
After this reprogramming, the truck should be test driven, the computer checked for a codes and the codes cleared (even if none are present), the key cycled on for five seconds, then turned off twice, then the engine started and allowed to idle for 5 minutes at operating temperature to allow the computer to relearn the EGR valve closed position value. This is to prevent erronious codes or driveability sysmptoms related to the EGR valve an turbo performance. Broadcast Messages 5452, 5529.
You should notice an increase in turbo cycling closed/whistling at idle and at stops. This is normal, and is to help keep the variable vanes from sticking.
I am also wondering if the vanes in the turbo are potentially sticking? If so they will need to be cleaned...
Some trucks with the 6.0 diesel engine may exhibit a lack of power/no boost concern. The variable geometry turbo (VGT) actuator should be checked for operation: The engine should be at operating temperature. With the engine running and the engine in park/neutral, use WDS to control engine speed to 1200 RPM. While watching exhaust backpressure (EBP) and manifold gauge pressure (MGP), control the VGT actuator (VGT_DC) to 0% and 65%.
If the MGP and EBP do not increase as VGT_DC is increased, inspect the wiring to the VGT. If there is no problems found in the wiring, replace the VGT actuator (P/N 3C3Z-6F089-AA) and retest. If there is no change, replace the turbo. SSM 0824. If the EBP does increase, and you can hear the turbo pitch change, but the MGP reading does not change, this indicates a problem other than the VGT or turbo.
Keep in mind, this is me shooting from my cuff, as I am not there to diagnose... Good luck.
Two weeks ago I tightened the clamps on the blue rubber boots. They both had some soot built up on them. after I reinstalled the EGR I took off the air filter and realized the boot on the output of the cooler had lots off soot built up on it. I tightened both clamps and now I have normal respnse, acceleration, and power. I'm going to replace all three boots. Thank You blaze45 you have been a big help. The recall did not apply to my year. I changed the VGT solenoid last year when I first encountered this problem. I think between my EGR being clogged up and the boots, this has been the problem the whole time. Once again Thanks!!!
No problem, glad I could help! Keep an eye on the vanes in that turbo.