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Changing the oil pan - what to pay attention to?

Tiny
BMUNGER
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 MAZDA PROTEGE
  • 90,000 MILES
I have oil leaking slowly from the oil pan. The oil level slowly becomes too low. I need to change the oil pan. I located an oil pan for 90$ at a parts dealer near enough for delivery. Now what should I pay attention to when I attempt this? Are there any gaskets to change at the same time? When changing it, what should I avoid? What are the difficult points? Is it as straightforward as I think it should be: empty it by draining, unbolt it, clean up the interface and replace with the new one?
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Saturday, October 1st, 2011 AT 12:28 AM

14 Replies

Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • MECHANIC
  • 31,938 POSTS
I think that these are sealed with a bonding agent and not a gasket, but if there are after market gaskets that will be fine, just make sure all is very clean and the replacement sump is not bent along the bolt up surface, with it off also remove the oil pick up and clean the strainer.
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Saturday, October 1st, 2011 AT 12:36 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,815 POSTS
Are you sure it is the oil pan that is leaking? Oil pan uses liquid gaskets and chances of it leaking is not high, unless it is subjected to impact damages. Mostly such leaks are from the front or rear seals.

If you need to remove the oil pan, there are specific recommended procedures according to the shop manual for this vehicle.
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Saturday, October 1st, 2011 AT 12:42 PM
Tiny
BMUNGER
  • MEMBER
  • 18 POSTS
Thanks for the info. I have not found where the leak comes from but there is an oil patch under the car and the pan is oily. A crack? I'll have to clean it and look for the exact place where it comes from. It's difficult without raising the car to human level. I'll have to get a rolling bed to sneak under it.

I jacked it up on candles, but it's still a little tight.

I'll go to a local shop and see what solutions they have. It's a newly purchased car for the three teenagers. I chose an inexpensive car and will teach them a bit of mechanic with it. And avoid having them plant my new civic into a light pole!
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Saturday, October 1st, 2011 AT 5:23 PM
Tiny
CADIEMAN
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,544 POSTS
Clean it and put dye in the oil. When its checked with a black light youll know right where all your leaks are. DONT JUST START REPLACE GASKETS AND DONT REPLACE THE OIL PAN TO STOP A OIL LEAK YOU REPLACE THE GASKET NOT ANY PARTS UNLESS THEY ARE DAMAGED.
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Saturday, October 1st, 2011 AT 5:38 PM
Tiny
BMUNGER
  • MEMBER
  • 18 POSTS
Thanks for the trick. I'll see if I can get that (dye and clack light).

By the way, when I purchased it, I had it inspected and they told me the oil pan was to be replaced. So I trust they know more than I do.

But I'll post a few pictures to help identify.
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Saturday, October 1st, 2011 AT 5:43 PM
Tiny
BMUNGER
  • MEMBER
  • 18 POSTS
Here is a picture of the oil pan.
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Saturday, October 1st, 2011 AT 5:51 PM
Tiny
BMUNGER
  • MEMBER
  • 18 POSTS
Here is a picture of the cardboard box I had put under it for 2 hours. It's dripping. Slowly but surely.
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Saturday, October 1st, 2011 AT 5:53 PM
Tiny
BMUNGER
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  • 18 POSTS
Oh, I did not see I could put them all into one post.
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Saturday, October 1st, 2011 AT 5:57 PM
Tiny
CADIEMAN
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,544 POSTS
When metal gets that rusted it gets porce and leaks right through.
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Saturday, October 1st, 2011 AT 10:02 PM
Tiny
BMUNGER
  • MEMBER
  • 18 POSTS
Thanks, I'll get geared up to change it. I'll look for an after market gasket or else some way to seal it tight.

Thanks for all the good advice it's really appreciated. I'll post back when the job is done.
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Saturday, October 1st, 2011 AT 10:25 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,815 POSTS
Two types of oil pans are used and one has a main bearing support plate (MBSP). It is known as the ZM type and if the oil pan is removed, the MBSP would have to be removed as well to reapply sealants, failing which you stand the chances of oil leaking. For the MBSP plate removal, the ransmission has to be removed as there are 2 hidden bolts which cannot be removed with engine and transmission attached.

Liquid sealants are used so you would not be able to find any gaskets for either.
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Sunday, October 2nd, 2011 AT 9:22 AM
Tiny
BMUNGER
  • MEMBER
  • 18 POSTS
Thank you so much for the info. The first diagram seems to be the one for me since (and we can see that in my pictures) the oil pan does not have a step in it. Thanks, this diagram is very helpful.

What king of sealant should I use?

I will order a new oil pan tomorrow (Monday) and probably get it this week, and change it fast because the colder weather is close and working with cold hands is not fun.
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Sunday, October 2nd, 2011 AT 4:50 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,815 POSTS
That would be the easier one to handle.

You can get the sealant from any parts stores. Just tell them it is for the oil pan installation.

OIL PAN REMOVAL/INSTALLATION

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Drain the engine oil.

3. Remove the front pipe.

4. Remove in the order indicated in the figure.

Fig. 10: Identifying Components Of Oil Pan - FS

5. Install in the reverse order of removal.

6. Start the engine and inspect for engine oil leakage.

OIL PAN REMOVAL NOTE

1. Remove the oil pan mounting bolts.

2. Screw in a oil pan bolt in a weld nut hole to make a small gap between the oil pan upper block and the oil pan. (FS model)
Fig. 11: Identifying Oil Pan Weld Nut

3. Remove the oil pan using a separator tool.
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Sunday, October 2nd, 2011 AT 5:05 PM
Tiny
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  • 18 POSTS
Thanks for the valuable info, you're a real treasure!

Humm, removing the front pipe first.

I already have the first gasket of the exhaust pipe to change. I'm gonna kill two birds with one stone.

Thanks!
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Sunday, October 2nd, 2011 AT 5:32 PM

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