Replaced valve body still had hard shift - replaced TRS LP fuse NOW will not shift

I agree with you. No they never tested the valve body as a whole assembly (I assume you mean shifting under pressure). They told me that they do not rebuild valve bodies that need a sleeve. They inspect and clean the valve body and replace anything that is not within spec.

How involved is a line pressure test. Where and how is the tester connected. Do I have to have wheels off the ground so the car can shift to perform the test. If you could give me details I would appreciate it.

Here are my measurements. I could not get a pressure tester so I used an oil pressure gauge that I had that goes to 100 psi. This is the type of oil gauge you would normally install inside the car when you do not have an oil pressure gauge.

Start the car let it idle till you get to normal operating temp.
Then see what the pressure reads at idle should be around 60psi. - My reading 74 psi
Then pull the line pressure fuse should be over 175psi. - My reading Over 100 psi (pegged my gauge)
Then put the fuse back in and turn the engine off and then restart the engine.
Then put the transmission in drive the pressure should read about 130psi. - My reading 74 psi
Then put the car in reverse the pressure should read over 175psi. - My reading 74 psi

Without the TRS LP fuse all gears including park/neutral read over 100 psi (pegged my gauge)

What do you think?

I bought a valve body from a different source and now I am getting different results.

This valve body has a sonnax sleeve.

I am not getting the pressures you specified previously. Using my 100 psi gauge I get the following readings.

P - 44 psi
r - 41 psi
n - 25 psi
d - 39 psi
3 - 39 psi
2 - 39 psi

Randomly (at least twice I had a park pressure of 110 psi and a reverse pressure of 98 psi)

When I pulled the TRS LP fuse I read the following pressures.

P - 68 psi
r - 62 psi
n - 41 psi
d - 48 psi
3 - 48 psi
2 - 48 psi

As you may remember with the previous valve bodies I would peg the gauge when in reverse.

No I have not purchased a transmission gauge set.

Do you know where to get a guaranteed good valve body?

Based on our previous discussions I believe that when you pull the trs lp fuse you will always get a reverse slam. Is this true?

No, I do not have the first valve body - I did get a refund, then I purchased this one.

Correct, that is what I replaced on the original valve body. I do not know the exact history of the car but I was told that it had the hard shift problem for at least a couple of months, then it was parked for a year. The car has 126,000 miles.

I was working on the car again today and have the following update. I installed a new vehicle speed sensor just to make sure it was not the problem and it wasn't. I also measured all the actuators ohms and here they are.

A/B Third - 4.6 ohms
C/D Fourth - 4.8 ohms
E/K TCC - 4.7 ohms
J/H Second - 4.9 ohms
G/F Line - 5.1 ohms

How important is it that they are within one ohm of each other?

With the TRS LP fuse installed the car will shift into reverse with about third gas pedal applied. Goes into drive but will not shift into second or any other gear.

With TRS LP fuse removed the car will hard shift into reverse. Shifts ok into drive, hard shift into 2nd, hard shift into 3rd and shift ok into 4th. I did not have the pressure gauge attached so I do not know pressures.

I am going to buy a pressure tester that goes to 300 psi so I can get an accurate reading.

The person who sold me the last valve body also sent me a service manual and according to it, my problem comes down to three problems.

1 - Pump
2/3 - Pressure regulator and/or line pressure actuator.

Based upon the ohms reading do you think it could be an actuator problem? What are you thoughts with the pump?

One more thing. According to the shop manual the transmission fluid should be either Dexron II or Dexron III. Autozone told me to put in Castrol Import Multi-Vehicle. It is primarily for import cars, however on the back it reads:
Also meets requirements for: General Motors - Dexron III H and prior. Could this be the problem?

It is sitting in a box in my garage. Yes, I replaced the line actuator with a brand new one (GM) part. I also replaced the buss plate with a brand new one (GM) part.

When I repaired the original valve body I took it for a test drive and it hard shifted but I may of had a blown trs lp fuse. I cannot remember ever test driving the car with the original valve body when I know the trs lp fuse was good.

I will have to look for the buss plate part number.

Buss plate part number 21002828

As far as the original valve body. I did reinstall it when there was a good trs lp fuse but only did a garage test. If I am remembering correctly it would not go into reverse. I will put it in again and test it.

Here are my readings with a 300 psi gauge.

P - 70 psi
r - 65 psi
n - 40 psi
d - 65 psi
3 - 65 psi
2 - 65 psi

When I pulled the TRS LP fuse I read the following pressures.

P - 125 psi
r - 285 psi
n - 90 psi
d - 285 psi
3 - 285 psi
2 - 285 psi

Based upon these reading I believe that my pump is good.

So am I back to it being the valve body.

NOTE:

After taking the readings I put the car into Park and my 300 psi gauge broke (cheap China crap), so I cannot test with the original valve body until I get a replacement.