Loss power, code P0335

Tiny
DANIYALKZA
  • MEMBER
  • 2007 HYUNDAI TIBURON
  • 2.7L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 70,000 MILES
Hi. Recently I had a strange problem and a randomly loss of power. I start engine in morning and it hasn't its usual power after a while a shut it off and in next start it's power back and everything normal. But it is randomly maybe one start and shut off or two. I suspect to something. Recently I bleeding my power steering pump like what my manual says. It says unplug ignition coils then cranking intermittently for about fifteen seconds while turning wheels to right and left. I did it about ten times to bleeding power steering. Could it damage something? Because I had a p0335 code and changed crankshaft position sensor but nothing changes.
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Thursday, February 14th, 2019 AT 11:52 PM

39 Replies

Tiny
HARRY P
  • MECHANIC
  • 2,293 POSTS
Hello and welcome to 2CarPros.

When you changed the crankshaft position sensor, did you happen to clear the codes or unhook the battery for a while? It's possible that the computer needs to go through a relearn procedure. The best way to get it to do so is to simply disconnect the battery for maybe fifteen minutes with the headlight switch turned on (helps drain residual power in the system quickly). Then connect the battery, turn the lights off, and start the car and let it idle for a while. It may stall or not want to idle correctly for a while, but should eventually smooth out as the computer gets acclimated to the sensors and other such things. So if you haven't done that yet, then give it a try.

Also, did you do any diagnostic testing before replacing the sensor (such as checking the wiring for shorts, etc)? I ask because a short circuit or misadjusted sensor can also cause the p0335 code. I'm going to attach AllData's instructions on diagnosing the p0335 code in the images below. Go through it and do any tests that you haven't already done. As a matter of fact, I'd suggest just doing all of it, even if you've already done some of it. It never hurts to recheck your own work.

If, after going through the procedures listed by AllData, you still have the code and symptoms, it may be that it's simply time to have the timing set replaced (timing belt, gears, guides, etc). This is normal maintenance. Hyundai calls for replacing the timing belt every 40,000 miles. If it hasn't ever been done, then go ahead and get it done ASAP. Failing to do so can cause catastrophic damage to the engine, requiring either rebuilding or replacing the engine;

I understand if you don't have all of the tools needed to go completely through AllData's diagnostic procedure (most people don't have them) so do what you can. If you can borrow an oscilloscope and/or a high end scanner with live data modes and such, then do so.

How a timing belt works: https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-timing-belt-works

Here's a nice little article on timing belts in interference engines (like yours): https://jalopnik.com/heres-what-happens-when-your-timing-belt-snaps-and-how-1643804882

Good luck and let us know what you find. We'll go from there.
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Friday, February 15th, 2019 AT 5:01 AM
Tiny
DANIYALKZA
  • MEMBER
  • 111 POSTS
Thank you for your help. I disconnect negative battery terminal before change sensor and after that everything restart. My question is, if it's a timing problem why it shows randomly and from one start shut off to next? I want to know could my procedure of bleeding include cranking too long about ten times damage something else? Because I smell some burnt from engine after bleeding. In my opinion it has an electrical problem somewhere. How can I check for that?
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Friday, February 15th, 2019 AT 6:59 AM
Tiny
DANIYALKZA
  • MEMBER
  • 111 POSTS
For update I measure voltage between terminal 2 and chassis with ignition on and engine off. It was 4.96 without ecm disconnect. Should I disconnect ecm? Where is it connector? Manual saya it has to be 0 volt. So am I have a probelem? If yes how can I fix it?
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Saturday, February 16th, 2019 AT 5:09 AM
Tiny
DANIYALKZA
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  • 111 POSTS
It seems problem is some where else and I can't find it.I will be soo much pleasure if some one can help. What could happen between a engine shut off and start to run better
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Sunday, February 17th, 2019 AT 7:39 AM
Tiny
HARRY P
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Again, have you run through the diagnostic process for the p0335 code. To answer your last question, a lot of things can happen that'll make the engine run better after a shut off and restart. Mostly they involve wires and weak grounds.

You could be looking at a fuel flow issue (weak pump that is sometimes better than others or maybe a clogged filter). Honestly, I think that your problem is in that p0335 code. Go through that diagnostic.

Also, again, if the car hasn't had that timing set, get it done fast before you have pistons smashing into valves because of a broken timing belt and requiring expensive repairs.
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Sunday, February 17th, 2019 AT 10:04 PM
Tiny
DANIYALKZA
  • MEMBER
  • 111 POSTS
I did diagnostic and find nothing wrong but can't do it completely because of hard access to ECM. My fuel filter is new and I don't think fuel pump is problem because I replace it. Timing belt replaced a few miles ago. I will update whatever happens.
Just for mention my long fuel trim is about 3%rich for both banks.
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Monday, February 18th, 2019 AT 12:59 AM
Tiny
HARRY P
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Hmm okay, I'm going to see if I can get another expert to look away what's going on here. Fresh eyes might see something that we're overlooking.
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Monday, February 18th, 2019 AT 4:21 AM
Tiny
DANIYALKZA
  • MEMBER
  • 111 POSTS
Thank you a lot. Just in case I measure resistance between pin 2 and 3 and it shows me 35 mega ohm and some time infinite resistance. Is it normal?
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Monday, February 18th, 2019 AT 4:42 AM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 42,544 POSTS
Yes that does sound normal. I would clear the codes and then service the throttle actuator because the car sounds like it is going into limp mode. here is a guide that will help you fix the problem. The coking in the actuator causes a correlation issue putting the car into limp mode.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/reduced-power-limp-mode

and

https://youtu.be/ahK_eucFi-k

Please run down this guide and report back.
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Monday, February 18th, 2019 AT 9:58 AM
Tiny
DANIYALKZA
  • MEMBER
  • 111 POSTS
Thanks for your help. I recently clean my throttle body completely and also TPS and idle air control valve. So what's the others options?
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Monday, February 18th, 2019 AT 11:19 AM
Tiny
DANIYALKZA
  • MEMBER
  • 111 POSTS
So problem found finally. It was wrong spark plug order. I mean plugs number 3 and 6 were in wrong place. Now I am worry about any damage caused by this because I drove it for about six hundred miles.
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Monday, February 18th, 2019 AT 11:36 PM
Tiny
HARRY P
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Great! I'm glad that you got it figured out. I wouldn't worry about damage though. If the was any, it would be readily apparent.
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Tuesday, February 19th, 2019 AT 3:21 AM
Tiny
DANIYALKZA
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Thanks for all the help.
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Tuesday, February 19th, 2019 AT 10:29 AM
Tiny
JUSTAMOM003
  • MEMBER
  • 17 POSTS
  • 2003 HYUNDAI TIBURON
  • 2.7L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 14,000 MILES
Car will not accelerate to more than twenty mph without revving past sixty mph.
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Tuesday, February 19th, 2019 AT 10:40 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,606 POSTS
Scan for codes, I am assuming engine is revving and not moving very well. If you can check transmission fluid it may be wise for a transmission professional to scan this for codes. It kind of sounds like a serious transmission problem.
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Tuesday, February 19th, 2019 AT 10:40 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JUSTAMOM003
  • MEMBER
  • 17 POSTS
Thank you for all your help. It was a serious problem. Seems the transmission was not the best size for the engine. Since the car was used we are not sure if it came from the dealer or if someone changed it out through the years.
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Tuesday, February 19th, 2019 AT 10:40 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 42,544 POSTS
Please use 2CarPros anytime, we are here to help and tell a friend.

Best, Ken
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Tuesday, February 19th, 2019 AT 10:40 AM (Merged)
Tiny
VECCHIONI27
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 2003 HYUNDAI TIBURON
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 35,000 MILES
Ok well as bad as it sounds, I don't think it is. The car runs fine until this starts happening but then it won't stop til you are at your destination. It usually starts when I hit a bump or have been driving for over 20 minutes. What I mean by shuddering and jumping is basically the car seems like it starts to hesitate, no not like its misfiring, but more so like someone is letting off the gas and punching it again really fast. What I really don't get is sometimes I will put the clutch in to stop at a red light and the engine just stalls out however 90% of the time, the engine acts 100% fine. Another thing its doing is when driving down the highway or down any road for that matter, I will let off the gas to just maintain speed and my check engine light comes on while the engine is decreasing speed. Now. The car basically felt like it stalled but the car is still running. However in order to get going again I have to basically press, well not basically I do have to press the accelerator all the way to the floor and then boom the car basically jumps back to life and the check engine light goes off. The last piece of information I can think to give you is sometimes when its acting really bad I have popped the hood before turning the car off to take a look around the engine bay. MY first thought was it could be a loose ground somewhere, however that doesn't seem to be the case on the top of the engine anyways, battery, and IM. But the catch here is sometimes when I goto shut the hood. As I do so, it stalls the car out from the hood shutting. Weird huh?

Hopefully someone can give me some insight to this as I am completely stumped and can't seem to figure out whats wrong, think it could be a ground on the underside, think there is one near the tranny? Not quite sure honestly. Checked the spark plugs but they are brand new thanks to bluegtv6 and the wires are brand new as well from NGK. However the coil I believe is still stock.

I am running in a 03 i4 turbo (System Upgrade Turbo Kit Stage 2) just to let you know but I have a feeling my mods have nothing to do with the problem on hand here.

Thanks for the help in advance,

Tim
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Tuesday, February 19th, 2019 AT 10:40 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,005 POSTS
Tim:

It does sound electrical based on the fact that it shuts when you close the hood. Have you checked the battery terminals? The one going to the engine block? If these seem okay I would replace the battery because it sounds like you could have an intermittent internal short.

Here are to guides to help

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/everything-goes-dead-when-engine-is-cranked

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-car-battery

Have you had the computer scanned since the check engine light has come on?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers
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Tuesday, February 19th, 2019 AT 10:40 AM (Merged)
Tiny
VECCHIONI27
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Yes I have but never with any codes. Its like the CEL only comes on because the car basically feels turned off while deceleration til you punch the gas and then it basically feels like it kicks back into great and resumes as normal.
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Tuesday, February 19th, 2019 AT 10:40 AM (Merged)

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