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Clutch Master and slave cylinder

Tiny
SCHROEDOGG
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 CHEVROLET SILVERADO
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 108,000 MILES
Today when driving, the clutch pedal suddenly went to the floor and was then just dangling. I discovered that the plastic housing on the INSIDE of the truck that the pedal is attached to had broken where the master cylinder connects to it (the round part that sticks through the firewall). It appears this whole plastic piece needs to be replaced. I have no idea what it's called. My problem, however, is that it appears I have to disassemble the entire inside of the dash just to get it out! It's wedged up under the dash in such a way that it can't be pulled down or twisted out. Does anybody know of an easy way to remove this? Or do I have to take the whole dash support structure apart to get to it? Seems a little strange that a plastic piece like this would be so buried. Also strange that the whole weight of the clutch pedal is being supported by some plastic tabs that can break out.
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Tuesday, August 11th, 2009 AT 8:49 PM

8 Replies

Tiny
SCHROEDOGG
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
In case anyone else runs into this, I believe I figured it out. You have to pry the plastic piece first out of the hole in the firewall. I used a screwdriver and slowly worked it out and pulled that end of the piece down while forcing the end nearer to me up. Eventually, I was able to squeeze the whole piece (with clutch pedal attached) out from between the dash support structure and the firewall. I'm headed to the dealer tomorrow to see if they have a replacement part.

My concern now is why this broke in the first place and what can I do to prevent another one from breaking. The clutch pedal is pretty hard to push. Could that be indicative of a bad master cylinder?
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Tuesday, August 11th, 2009 AT 10:54 PM
Tiny
SCHROEDOGG
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
One more follow-up.

Master Cylinder 15033924- 181.79

I was able to get the part from the dealer ($90 for a little piece of plastic!) And after talking with them decided to go ahead and replace the master cylinder too. After getting everything back together, the pedal was still hard to push. So I had my wife help me do some more bleeding and after a while it got quite a bit better. The pedal became much easier to push. I think the reason the plastic housing broke in the first place was that either I had a bad master cylinder or the clutch wasn't properly bled which led to having to mash the clutch pedal down very hard in order to shift. Doing this over time probably weakened the plastic piece and eventually broke through.
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Monday, August 17th, 2009 AT 9:13 AM
Tiny
EGOLF1980
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
I had this happen to mine you get the whole master cylinder part for less at auto zone and it comes with a metal rod instead of plastic if you get the dealer part it will eventually happen again
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Sunday, March 13th, 2016 AT 10:13 AM
Tiny
2000CHEVYMAN
  • MEMBER
  • 31 POSTS
  • 2000 CHEVROLET SILVERADO
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • MANUAL
  • 165,000 MILES
How do you replace the clutch slave cylinder on a 2000 silverado? I.E. Do you need to take the tranny out in order to do this?
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Thursday, May 6th, 2021 AT 12:29 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
Here is a guide that will help with this.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/throw-out-bearing-replacement

Below is the info from the manual. It will give the detail that you need. However, yes, you need to remove the transmission to replace this.

Please let us know if you have other questions.
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Thursday, May 6th, 2021 AT 12:29 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DCNMS
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1993 CHEVROLET SILVERADO
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 150,000 MILES
I would like to know how to replace a clutch master cylinder on a 1993 Chevy 1500.
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Thursday, May 6th, 2021 AT 12:29 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,758 POSTS
REMOVAL

1. Disconnect battery ground cable.

2. Remove lower steering column covers, then remove NC duct from lower left side of instrument cluster.

3. Disconnect master cylinder push rod from clutch pedal, then remove retaining nuts at dash panel.

4. Disconnect reservoir hose and slave cylinder hydraulic line at master cylinder, then remove master cylinder from vehicle.

INSTALLATION

1. Install master cylinder assembly and torque retaining nuts to 10-14 ft. Lbs.

2. Connect slave cylinder hydraulic line and reservoir hose to master cylinder.

3. Connect pushrod to clutch pedal, then install retaining clip and A/C duct, if removed.

4. Install lower steering column covers, then reconnect battery ground cable.

5. Fill master cylinder reservoir with clean brake fluid, then bleed system
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Thursday, May 6th, 2021 AT 12:29 PM (Merged)

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