No spark again

That's not much to go on. What sensor are you talking about? Why did you replace all those random parts? Has anything actually been diagnosed? Which engine do you have?

If you're missing spark at one spark plug wire, you're missing it at it's mate too so there's no point in wasting time looking at the others. If you were just missing spark at one spark plug, the engine would still run.

Professional mechanics are not psychic, so whoever determined the crankshaft position sensor was defective must be really good. The easiest way to know is if here's a diagnostic fault code set related to that, but it's important to understand that fault codes never say to replace parts or that they're defective. They only indicate the circuit or system that needs further diagnosis. Chrysler makes reading fault codes yourself real easy. Cycle the ignition switch from "off" to "run" three times within five seconds without cranking the engine, then watch the code numbers show up in the odometer display.

If there are no fault codes, the first step is to determine if you also have no fuel. The easiest way is to determine if the automatic shutdown relay is turning on during cranking. You'll need a test light or a digital voltmeter for that test. You listed a V-6 engine and said it has a coil pack. Coil packs were only used on the four-cylinder engines. Which engine do you really have?

I'm not sure what you're trying to say in those last two sentences. How did we get from no-spark to a starter problem?

Nope. He's probably thinking of an ignition resistor bypass circuit used a long time ago. On your car there is no relation between the starter relay and the automatic shutdown (ASD) relay.

If your engine is cranking normally, you will need a code reader or scanner to read the fault codes if the odometer doesn't work. You can test the ASD circuit by measuring the voltage at any injector or either small terminal on the back of the alternator. You will see 12 volts there for one second after you turn on the ignition switch. What is important is if that voltage comes back during cranking. If it does not, the two most common suspects are the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor inside the distributor. The cam sensor has the higher failure rate, but because of the difficulty in replacing it, most people just replace the entire distributor.

Also be sure the rotor is turning. If it is not, the timing belt is broken and valves will be damaged. That, and the loss of compression, will make the engine crank faster than normal.

1. Disconnect the 2-pin electrical connector to the distributor.
2. Measure coil primary resistance between the two terminals on the distributor. 0.6 to 0.8 ohm
3. Measure col secondary resistance between coil hi-tension tower and each of the terminals of the 2-pin connector. Both reading should be between 12,000 to 18,000 ohms.

If any of the three readings out of specs, replace the entire distributor assembly.

Check your ASD relay (on cowl, left rear of engine compartment) and check injector pulse.

I believe just the bolt, nothing else.

Maybe pcm, maybe ignition coils?

You don't have to go to the dealership, independent auto repairs are avaliable and qualified.

IMHO. Might want to rethink if that is in your best interest. I am not familiar with a specific problem that would be consisent to recommend a part replacement.