No heater?

Wont work in any speed? What if you sit there and keep hitting the button on and off?

Might be a bad relay. Do you know where it is located? When did you first notice this problem start to occur.

Does the clicking noise seem like a light tick when you push the button. Kinda like the noise you hear when you turn on the rear defrosters?

Get ready to test!

BLOWER MOTOR TEST
unplug blower motor connector turn ign switch to run. Set ac mode selector to vent and blower in high. Use a meter and measure voltage between blower connector purple wire and ground. If batt volt present go to next step. If none check purple for open circuit. If purple wire is good perform blower relay test and blower switch test explained later.

Check for batt voltage between purple and black wires. If batt voltage is present but no blower motor replace motor. If voltage is present check black for open circuit. Insure good clean tight ground.

BLOWER RELAY TEST
remove blower relay from relay panel on center of firewall. Turn ignition switch to run and set ac mode select to vent and blower switch to low. Measure voltage between relay connector red wire and ground. If batt present go to next step. If not present check red wire for open circuit to fuse block

measure voltage between relay connector dark blue wire and ground. If voltage exists go next step. If not check dark blue for open circuit. If wire is good perform blower motor resistor test. If we get that far well go over it later.

Measure voltage between orange wire and ground. If batt volt present go next step. If not check orange wire for open circuit if orange wire ok perform blower switch test. If all listed is good and you got good on last step replace relay.

BLOWER SWITCH TEST
unplug blower moor resistor connector. Turn ignition to run and ac mode to vent. Put blower switch in M1 position.

Measure voltage between blower motor resistor tan wire and ground on the connector. If volt present go to next step. If nothing check tan wire for open. If tan wire ok replace blower switch.

Set blower switch m2 positioin measure voltage between blower motor resistor connector light blue wire and ground. If volt not present check light blue wire for open circuit. If wire is good replace blower switch.

Set blower to high. Reasure voltage between high speed relay connector orange wire and ground. If voltage present switch is ok. If batt voltage is not present check orange wire for open. If wire is ok replace blower switch.

Hers a a/c mode selector test. Turn ign. To run. Set ac mode selector to vent. With control panel connected measure the voltage between connect c1 brown wire and ground. If you have batt voltage proceed if not check brown wire for open circuit to heater a/c fuse

measure voltage between gray and black wire on c3 connector and ground. If batt voltage isnt present check gray black for open circuit. If good replace control panel.

Will need to scan the ECM to see if it stored any codes pertaining to the hesitating. Has it ever been tuned up? Fuel filter especially. Sounds like air in the cooling system. Check the fluid level and see if it is low, if so need to find the leak and fix it

No problem. Just take your time! Glad to help. Get back to me with what you find. We appreciate your time to ask a question and for the donation!

Ok lets see if it will go into a self diagnostic mode and tell us what is happening. It is simple all you need is the key's to the car and the car and a few moments ok.
Turn key on engine off and then press the off and warmer button together. Now press the high button once now it should give you numbers these are codes use the low button to scroll the codes if there is any. Now when you are done then you press the low button 3 times it should show 03 and then the low button again and now it should show 01 now press the high button once now it should show temp in the display now codes are cleared you are done. Get me the codes if there is any and we will see what is going on.

Ok well with that said it seems that the controler is bad. So I would call around to the salvage or wrecking yards and find one and replace it. If you would like you can do one more test with a volt meter and verify this. Unplug the Control unit and check for votage from the orange wire to ground if there is voltage then check the brown wire to ground if there is voltage there then check for voltage between the brown wire and the black wire and if there is voltage then the control unit (panel) is bad and needs to be replaced. Now these tests are done with the key on engine off. Here is a pic of the connector to help.

It is the part you use to push the buttons on. Looks like this.