Engine occasional stalls

try cleaning the throttle plate with choke cleaner. these sometimes get oil on them and get sticky. the car may be hard to start after doing this.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

Please run down this guide and report back.

Turn ignition off. Disconnect IAC valve connector. IAC valve is located in front of throttle body at 6 o'clock position. Using ohmmeter, measure resistance between terminal No. 2 and terminals No. 1 and 3 at IAC valve. If resistance is not 17-25 ohms (cold) or 22-29 ohms (hot), replace IAC valve. If resistance is 17-25 ohms (cold) or 22-29 ohms (hot), remove and clean.

So, I took it to a local mechanic, and again they weren't able to recreate the problem, and no error codes showed up. They checked the IAC valve and cleaned the throttle plate, but I am still having the issue with the same frequency. Help!

Is this car starting back up immediately or do you have to wait at all before it will restart?

I usually have to wait about 5-10 mins before it will start back up again.

Then you have an issue other than the idle control. This has to be treated as a "crank, no start". Here is the way that has to be approached.

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.



Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.


2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.


3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.

You can forget about the compression test part of that. I should have deleted that portion in your case.

I was trying to park my 98 Camry when it died after I put it in reverse. When I put it in park and tried to restart it it would not start. It had over half a tank of gas so it is not out of gas.

Do below to determine if its a fuel or spark problem

Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine atleast 3/16 away from ground-have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, Do you hear the fuel pump come On when you turn key on? If not check fuel pump fuse and fuel pump relay if okay-check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs,coil's resistances,cap and rotor,distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it and keep testing

Hi, ok heres the deal. My car stalls & then won't start when I turn on my A/C. It happens at lights or even in the driveway. I tried just having the fan on, defrost on, heat on & nothing happens. But as soon as I turn on the A/C it starts having a very rough idle & most of the time stalls. I turned the fan to the 3rd setting (with A/C on) and the idle shot up to 2000 rpm and wouldn't budge, so then i turned the fan to the 4th setting, the idle dropped like a lead weight and stalled right away. I recently had my battery & alternator checked & they said they were good.

Hi darkness420,

Thank you for the donation.

This is a pculiar problem and I guess it is not going to be easy to diagnose and rectify.

Questions would be asked as we go along to understand the problem better and hopefully we can get the problem fixed.

What is the idling speed when A/C is off and engine at operating temperature?
Does the idling speed drop and goes back up when A/C is turned on?
HAs anything been done to try to rectify the problem.

Symptoms indicates a fault with the idling circuit and it could be the IAC and throttle body that is dirty and requires cleaning. If they had not been cleaned before, get them cleaned and retest.

Ok, cleaned the iac and throttle body. Worked fine for a little while, but i just took a trip to buy a new battery & the car acted up (stalled twice) after i had installed the new battery. After it finally started, i stopped at a gas station to put gas in my car & it stalled as i entered the gas station. Finally got the car started after 20 minutes and idled at 2000 rpm then died again (no fan,ac or anything running). Finally got it to drive and it wanted to stall at every light we had to stop at. Had to hold the brake with left foot while pushing the gas until the light turned green. Made it home & as soon as i parked. the car, dead.

Was the IAC disconnected from the throttle body for cleaning?

While cleaning, did you check if the valve is moving freely and swings back to position if you gently push it open fully with a fine screw driver?

Though no trouble codes are present, I believe the IAC is sticking intermittently causing the problem as described.

Get the valve clearance checked. If they are too tight, indling would be erratic.

Intake = 0.19 - 0.29 mm
Exhaust = 0.29 - 0.38mm

Valve adjustment should be done with cold engine.

My car stalls when approaching red lights or turns. It starts up again with no problem but nobody is able to diagnos this issue. It's annoying and scarey at the same time and I would like to get this resolved asap.
Thanks!

Hi there,

first ting to check is the idle speed and do a diagnostic check just to see if any codes are set, just one question, if you slip it into neutral, when slowing down dose it still stall?

Mark (mhpautos)

Yes, it still does stall in neutral. So I can take it in somewhere and tell them to check the idle speed?
Thanks for the quick response:)
~Wendy

Here's my post from tundrasolutions.com/forums/camry. Lots of info there, as well.

Any help would be appreciated.

Jim

Hi. I am going through the nearly the exact same problem, though so far it's happening intermittently. It's driving me insane. I'm not very mechanically inclined, so I don't really understand all the acronyms you refer to. I have changed my plugs, my fuel filter and done a variety of other routine maintenance. I get no CEL (figured that one out) and, of course, nothing shows up on the quickie diagnostic. I have had a million people suggest a million different things, but the most common to date are the Idle Speed (Air) Control Sensor or the Throttle position sensor, which can be found on opposite ends of each other. The ISCS is a way expense part,while the other is about $30 new. My local Toyota dealer has offered to check the ISCS this afternoon, diagnostically, and I hope to get them to do a quickie on the other part. Not sure if this will show good/bad since it's an intermittent problem, but, like you, I'm going through the process of elimination. I will let you know the results. Could you please let me know what some of the acronyms are that you are referring to? I'm figuring since they didn't help you, it won't help me either, but it'll be good to know. You can reply here or even call my cell at 904-314-3276. My name is Jim.

We must beat this thing!!!!!!!

Check these 3 components: Throttle position sensor/EGR valve and MAF sensor-

Wendy, Jim,

Jim here too. I have a 1998 Camry, 6 cyl, 3.0, XLE with the same problem. Started on Thursday and I can't drive it unless I do sort of what Jim suggested- apply some gas while either riding the brake or putting the car in neutral.

I've got the book on the car- Here's a couple of hints that you might need. If your 6 cyl burns oil, there is an unwritten or not very well advertised Toyota recall - Engine sludge problem. I just got a new engine 15 months ago and my catalytic converter and Oxygen sensors were not replaced- thus a problem..

Right now, I took the idle up by turning the allen screw next to the throttle body- I'm trying to order the TPS- Throttle Position Sensor- Auto Zone 4 day order and pay in advance. Another parts store 2-3 days. I'll head out on Tues in search for this. According to the book, you need to measure voltage on pin #1 on the TPS connector- with tab at top, the number 1 pin is on the left. Turn on key ignition but do not start. Use a volt meter and measure #1 power to ground. If 5 volts +/- 1volt- then measure pins #2 and #3 when plugged in. This is tougher than it sounds- if less than 5 volts- probably the TPS. That's where I am now. I actually have the part on my counter now- trying to find a replacement. About $50 from some places and can go to nearly $100. If this is the problem, the repair should be relatively simple- two phillips screws holding it on and a connector. If it is the MAF Mass Airflow sensor or IAC Idle Air Control- that will be a topic for later in the week.

Oh yeah, the OBD II code that I just got was a P0120- which states TPS sensor, and can be the other two items above also (MAF and IAC).

You'd think Toyota would know when engines and transmission are having problems and would give you less grief- but these little sensors are problems with a capital "P",

Good luck and hope I helped out some. I have a Chiltons repair manual that I picked up at the local public library- Might want to try that. Wish you and me luck.

Jim #2.

I have a 1998 Camry with 132,000 miles. When it has been sitting for a while (like all day or night or even just a few hours), the engine just doesn't want to stay lit and stalls out. I have to start it with my left foot on the brake and my right foot on the gas and then hope I can get it to start before it stalls. The strange thing is, once I do get it going, it drives fine and does not stall. So if I can get out of my driveway in the morning, it will probably be okay.Replaced the fuel filter today, did not help.

[quote:d47886ad30="rasmataz"]Check these 3 components: Throttle position sensor/EGR valve and MAF sensor-[/quote:d47886ad30]

What's the best way to check those items?

Clean the idle air control valve, EGR valve and the MAF sensor with an electronic cleaner CRC and see what happens

[quote:53789c5cac="Moz"]Wendy, Jim,

Jim here too. I have a 1998 Camry, 6 cyl, 3.0, XLE with the same problem. Started on Thursday and I can't drive it unless I do sort of what Jim suggested- apply some gas while either riding the brake or putting the car in neutral.

I've got the book on the car- Here's a couple of hints that you might need. If your 6 cyl burns oil, there is an unwritten or not very well advertised Toyota recall - Engine sludge problem. I just got a new engine 15 months ago and my catalytic converter and Oxygen sensors were not replaced- thus a problem..

Right now, I took the idle up by turning the allen screw next to the throttle body- I'm trying to order the TPS- Throttle Position Sensor- Auto Zone 4 day order and pay in advance. Another parts store 2-3 days. I'll head out on Tues in search for this. According to the book, you need to measure voltage on pin #1 on the TPS connector- with tab at top, the number 1 pin is on the left. Turn on key ignition but do not start. Use a volt meter and measure #1 power to ground. If 5 volts +/- 1volt- then measure pins #2 and #3 when plugged in. This is tougher than it sounds- if less than 5 volts- probably the TPS. That's where I am now. I actually have the part on my counter now- trying to find a replacement. About $50 from some places and can go to nearly $100. If this is the problem, the repair should be relatively simple- two phillips screws holding it on and a connector. If it is the MAF Mass Airflow sensor or IAC Idle Air Control- that will be a topic for later in the week.

Oh yeah, the OBD II code that I just got was a P0120- which states TPS sensor, and can be the other two items above also (MAF and IAC).

You'd think Toyota would know when engines and transmission are having problems and would give you less grief- but these little sensors are problems with a capital "P",

Good luck and hope I helped out some. I have a Chiltons repair manual that I picked up at the local public library- Might want to try that. Wish you and me luck.

Jim #2.[/quote:53789c5cac]

Jim,

Thanks much for your reply. Here's an update: After scanning many of these message boards (it's amazing how many people are having the same problem) I decided to replace the coolant temperature sensor, which tells the computer whether the engine is cool or hot and, thereby, can flood the doggone thing with gas if it's misread. Well, I didn't have any problems for a month (mostly short trips) but it happened again tonight. So, my next step is to try the IAC sensor (picked up a part in a junkyard since its so expensive.) Will put that on tomorrow. If not that, then perhaps the EGR valve should be next. BTW, is there a simple way to check this stuff diagnostically?

Thanks,

Jim

Do you have a check engine light?

No check engine light comes on, which is why I hesitate to take it to a mechanic. I'm not sure if codes come up when the light doesn't come on.

Car stalls and shuts down at intersections every now and then and wont start up again (98 Camry). After 5-10 minutes it starts up fine and runs like normal for another few days. I put in a new fuel filter and thought the prob. was dealt with until today when it tried to stall at a red light. I put it in park reved the engine up until light turned green and avoided stopping until my house. It conked out just before my driveway and i had enough momentum to get it in w/out the power steering/brakes. It wouldn't start back up. 10 mins later started perfect and seemed fine. My mechanic is a rookie and he says w/out witnessing the problem, he has no idea. Im worried to let my wife drive it anywhere in case it happens to her. Any Idea?

It could be a failing fuel pump or its controlling circuits, ignition switch or ignition sparks problem.

When problem occurs and could not be started, you need to perform test to find out what is missing causing the nonstarting.

When engine stalled, were the dash indicator lights showing?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Our top trouble-shooting guide has quite a comprehensive list for you to go through for testings. Above link is one of it.

ya, as the engine began to sputter they were off and as it shut off they all went on. When trying to start immediately after the engine wouldn't turn over after several attempts. not even close. the starter works fine thought. as i said its strange because i went inside and came back out and the thing starts like a champ. i drove it all day today with no issues. this has happened now 7 or 8 times in the last 2 months. ive taken it in 3 times to the mechanic. he starts it and of course it works great in his presence. I dont know about testing it when the problem occurs because it just happens spontaneously. Usually in a bad situation in rush hour or at a major intersection. what test can i do at the point when it happens? My buddies shop is only 20 minutes away, but by the time I get the car started and get it over there the damn thing starts fine consistently. if i can do the test myself then at least i can get a better idea of what the specific problem is. Its driving me crazy. Thanks again

Click the link posted in my previous answer to get an idea what to look for.

I have a 1998 Toyota Camry. It is stalling and then not starting again. The tachometer sometimes revs at 3000rpms and then jumps down to 200rpms and then struggles to get back up, then it stalls. Occasionally when driving the car will feel like it's losing power and***** back and forth. When it does stall, I have to pump the gas while trying to start it. Eventually it starts with a lot of exhaust and a strong smell. Not a burning oil smell but more like a chemical smell. The engine light comes on and then goes off. I have had it coded but for some reason it is not registering.

Clean out the idle air control valve and EGR and PCV valves and test the throttle position sensor and also clean the MAF sensor with an electronic cleaner CRC

I was driving and my car shut off. I started it again and began driving. A few moments later it shut off once again. I pulled over and the car was smoking and the temp gauge red hot
The car would not start again. I popped the hood to see if their was a hose biated or something visibly wrong. I then checked the oil. The oil was so low it barely registered on the dipschtick.i checked the oil about two weeks ago and it was clean but a quart low so i added a quart. A friend told me it probably needed water so it ate up the oil and my motor became too hot and locked up. Is my motor fried? Is their anyway to unlock the motor?

when you say it would not start, did it turnover(crank) or just ckick. have you manually tried to turn crankshaft? if locked, find the tight bearing and fix it.

No it wouldnt crank. It just clicked. Also when i looked under the hood the engine was so hot it was glowing red. Is my motor toast?

High possibility the engine has overheated badly and is seized. When engine cools down you might be able to crank it but it most probably won't start.

The part glowing red hot should be the catalytic converter and it would occur thus if the gnie was misfiring badly prior to stalling.

try to asking your tech yesterday but no answer i was a mechanic try to verify the 98 Camry 4cylinder cranking had good spark, has good gas pressure, but not running, but press gas panel couple time hold to floor car start, take off the foot from gas panel engine cut off thought it could be TB replaced another good used one still
does the same can not find the problem, any info

have you checked the idle air control valve?

yes, did replaced another good TP body still do the same

At low rev,start up and stop start, the car rattles loudly,vibrates and gives that hollow deep sound as if its going to die out.At high Revs, it runs smooth.what could be the problem there?

Check for tune up. Check for vacuum leaks. If the check engine light is on, have the computer scanned for trouble codes. Most parts stores will do it for free.