1998 Mercury Mountaineer • V8 AWD Automatic •
Have a 98 Mountaineer 5.0 4x4. Vehicle was locked up, running, with keys in the column. Drivers door was unlocked using a "slim Jim" and vehicle was shut off. When an attempt to restart the vehicle it would not start and all efforts to get it started again failed. 3 years later here we are trying again. Everything was done to assure that there was no "varnish" in any of the fuel systems. On board security system was by passed according to specs, re: wire in kick panel was grounded out. Vehicle will run as long as you spray fuel into the intake plenium and quit when you stop. Fuel pressure from pump is at 30-45 lbs, pump is hot wired to run at all times for testing and repair. Has good spark but will only run when fuel is sprayed into the intake. Any suggestions? Runs great when running.
March 24, 2011.
March 24, 2011.
The injector's aren't pulsing that's why you have fuel pressure and you still have to spray fuel into the intake to get it to run. Which is dangerous by the way. So does it have fuel pressure when it's hooked up like it's suppose to to and not hot wired?Also have you seen if you have power to each injector key on engine off?Also you need to get a noid light to check for injector pulse you plug it in instead of the injector and crank it over watching for the light to flash.
This vehicle is for my Mother-in-law so I hope you understand. There were some wires that were "chewed" by "mice, chipmunks, who knows, " but we got all of them secured and tested with a vom for continuity and they are all fine. At this point we have the pulse on the injector wires but not sure if it is when it is supposed to be as I do not have a repair manual for it. As far as the pump goes, there is power there on the wires but we elected to do what we are doing so that we can run it with another battery. Long story, got in-laws "helping" on this. I have been working on vehicles for 43 years now and have some clue what I am doing but on this one I have been messing with it for over 3 weeks now and am begining to loose sight of the problem and cure. I am sure you have been in the same position at one time or another. I have been told the crank or cam sensor is the problem, they are both new but I know that does not mean anything other than the fact that they are new, doesn't mean they are good. Been there done that one a time or two in the past. Thanks for trying to help me so far.
So do you have a pulsing to the injectors when your cranking it to start it?Because you say you have fuel pressure and still have to prime the engine to keep it running. That leaves no injector pulse I would say the crank sensor is good since it starts and runs on a prime. DO you have any code's?Also you made sure all the fuses are good?
Yes, fuses are good and no codes. I guess I will take a good look at the cam sensor again. I tested each and every fuse, as far as the pulse on the injectors it is a steady resistance, no variations.
Steady resistance?You should have a constant power and a on and off ground while cranking you can use a bulb test light on the ground side of the injector harness then put the aligator clip on the positive side of the battery. Then crank it over and see if the test light bulb flashes. Do that on all the injector harnesses.
There you go that is your starting point no injector pulse like I was saying before. So you have power to the injector just no pulsing ground?Do you have a constant ground?
Well I believe so, but you know as well as I do about Ford and their grounds. They come and go like the wind. MY GROUND is good, that I know! I really apreciate the help and the fresh outside look at this deal. If you ever need anything here is my email addy, my id or log in name here at hotmail. I have worked in salvage yards for years and I have contacts all over the country and can find you any part you may need for any vehicle any year so let me know if there is anything I can do. I will let you know what I find out. Thanks again.
Thanks for the parts offer I might just take you up on that someday. If you have a constant power with the key in the run position on the one side of your injector harness that is good. But if your saying you also have a constant ground on the other side that is bad. The ground side pulses if it stayed grounded constant the injector would stay on all the time.
Well we just took another look at the cam sensor and pulled the whole deal out of the engine and I found the problem, the whole thing needs to be replaced. At least you gave me a direction to go to. That helped alot. As far as the parts offer goes, that is open anytime, you helped me, I intend to do the same in turn. Feel free to get ahold of me anytime and I will get back to you. I will find it and tell you where it is so you can make the arrangements yourself. Cuts the middle man out of the picture. I have contacts all over the country so I am sure I can help you. 40's 50's 60's 70's 80's no matter what year. I have the contacts to get it for you. Let me know and thanks for your help and you have a great day.
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