The check engine light came on and started blinking

Tiny
BLACKOP555
  • MECHANIC
  • 10,371 POSTS
Get the check engine light tested for free at a local auto zone. The code will tell you what is wrong. Post back the code here and ill tell you what is wrong and how to fix it.
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Wednesday, January 6th, 2021 AT 2:29 PM (Merged)
Tiny
IAN1965
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
It has been checked each time before cancelling off but no fault code shows up the garage was actually the ones who told me to try here. They said that people on here may have more experience with explorers than them. Thank you so much for replying
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Wednesday, January 6th, 2021 AT 2:29 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BLACKOP555
  • MECHANIC
  • 10,371 POSTS
Alright let me take a few cracks at it then!

First I would like you to change the coolant temp sensor, better changing then goin through the hassel testing, cheap part also.

Next you should clean up the throttle body and then check your IAC.

Those three are the most common causes of cold start up, post back.
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Wednesday, January 6th, 2021 AT 2:29 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PAYINGOFFMYHOUSE
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1996 FORD EXPLORER
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 140,000 MILES
1-2 years ago had replaced the oxygen sesors. Now engine light is back on. Mechanics replaced and EGR or ECR (?) Something. 2 days later the light is back on. They did something else at no charge. Again 2 days later the light was back on. Last week they replaced a DPFE with a used one. This time 3 days later the light is back on. In the meantime, my mileage is POOR! Like 6 mile/gallon. Otherwise, it runs great, and is in good condition. I have been driving this Explorer since 1998 and 20,000 miles.
HELP! I need to drive this Explorer for 2 more years!
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Wednesday, January 6th, 2021 AT 2:29 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,205 POSTS
Is the check engine light still on? IF so, what trouble code has been found?
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Wednesday, January 6th, 2021 AT 2:29 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PAYINGOFFMYHOUSE
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
After getting your message, I went to Autozone and had them scan it. (They are not the mechanics who have been working on it. Incidently the mechanics who have worked on this Explorer and our other truck have always been good.) Result came back of EGR faulty or malfunction. This is one of the parts which was replaced already. I understand that new parts can be bad, however does this point directly to the "part" or does the code lead you to an "area" to start looking? Would this EGR thing play a big part in my poor fuel mileage? By the way, I do not see discolored exhaust, or leaks under it at any time.
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Wednesday, January 6th, 2021 AT 2:29 PM (Merged)
Tiny
XSHAWX
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
  • 1996 FORD EXPLORER
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 210,000 MILES
I failed the emissions testing because of my DPFE (or emissions feedback pressure sensor). I replaced it, unhooked the battery to reset the "check engine light". But the next day when I went for testing I was told my PCM had not finish cycling, and was incomplete. Come back and test another day. How long after the battery pull does it take to reset the PCM? I dont have a scan tool to reset it so my only option was this method.
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Wednesday, January 6th, 2021 AT 2:29 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DAVE H
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,383 POSTS
You would need to leave the battery cables off for at least 5 minutes. But this will only delete DTC's from KAM. (Keep alive memory) these are minor fault codes. Some code's will not delete by removing battery on some vehicle's. Take the car to a good autopart's store. Most good one's will read and delete for free? And by cycling. He mat have meant the PCM. Was still in it's re-learn state. In which case you just need to drive the vehicle around for a while

I know you have no scan tool. But this is a ford recomended drive cycle.
OBD-II Drive Cycle
NOTE:The IAT PID must be between 50-100 °F (10-38 °C) during the OBD-II drive cycle to enter into all the OBD-II monitors. The FLI PID must be between 15% and 85% at all times.

Drive in stop-and-go traffic with at least 4 idle periods (30 seconds each) while observing the status of the OBD-II monitor on the scan tool. If the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR), Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S), Evaporative (EVAP) emission, secondary Air (AIR) (if applicable) or catalyst efficiency monitor have not completed, drive on the highway at a constant speed over 40 mph not to exceed 65 mph for up to 15 minutes. Heavy accelerations, sudden decelerations and wide open throttles are not recommended. If the scan tool sends out a three pulse beep at any time, the OBD-II drive cycle has completed.
NOTE:Vehicles equipped with the EVAP purge flow system or EVAP vapor management flow system monitor do not require EVAP monitor completion to clear the DTC P1000.

If the EGR, HO2S, EVAP, secondary AIR (if applicable) or catalyst efficiency monitor has not completed, perform the corresponding monitor verification drive cycle. See MONITOR REPAIR VERIFICATION DRIVE CYCLES.
Bring the vehicle to a stop and retrieve Continuous Memory DTCs to verify the DTC P1000 has been erased.
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Wednesday, January 6th, 2021 AT 2:29 PM (Merged)
Tiny
XSHAWX
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Thanks Dave. Great Advice.
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Wednesday, January 6th, 2021 AT 2:30 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DAVE H
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,383 POSTS
No problem. Anytime . My crazy hat deserves a vote if nothing else. Ha ha
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Wednesday, January 6th, 2021 AT 2:30 PM (Merged)

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