Poor acceleration

Engine Performance problem
1993 Ford Tempo 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 200000 miles

1993 ford temple 4 cyl automatic cuts out and bogs down no power

The coolant is boiling in the coolant reserve and there is loss of power while idling, engine is slitly shaking, what is causing this?

When I shut the ac off in my 92 ford tempo it boggs down and idles funny what could be the problem

1994 Ford Tempo with 183,000 miles
I have replaced plugs, wires, rotor, coil, distributor cap and all bad vacuum hoses. I did a fuel pressure check and everything came back fine. Cat. Convert is ok. I did notice that after the car has been running for a while (30 minutes) the temperature gauge is still showing a cold reading. It will go from warm to a cold reading. The check engine light would come on. I did a code test with it coming back as no problem found. I'm hoping that there is still life in the engine. When it is acting up there is a lot of pinging noise. HELP! Could it be a bad head gasket or cylinder? It was in the shop and they had no idea what the problem was. Thanks

Tony

1994 Ford Tempo 2.3 GL

Issues pulling in belts poor acceleration especially with AC off. Would not accelerate over 45 without engine cutout. Intermittent Check Engine Light high speeds.

Step by step fix procedure and results.

Fuel pressure test. The stem is under air intake back of engine more towards driver side.

Key on no start.

First key on 35psi
Second key on 52
Key off slow release of fuel pressure.

Engine running.

52-54
Key off slow release in presure.

Indicated FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator).

Pulled vacuum line off. Located on aluminum air intake manifold passenger side end. Carefully removed from both engine and regulator.

Key on. Started leaking fuel.

Replaced regulator.

Test drive. Condition worsened. Car barely drove at all.

Pulled codes. Tester can be purchased. The connector has a cover and it is clipped to the area near the driver side struct under hood to right of battery.

Key on Enginr off and Running tests.

Multipe codes.

So many codes I pulled off battery cables. Using a testing wire I connected the two battery cables. (NOT THE BATTERY ONLY THE REMOVED CABLES)

Turned key on. Let sit 10 min making sure to try accessory to make sure power drained.

Reconnected the battery. Results. Car idled but no throttle at all. Car would run rough if gas pedal was applied or manually induced under hood. Still throwing multiple codes.

Replaced TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) and CTS (Coolant Temp Sensor) as indicated among codes.

TPS located driver side aluminum intake at or near back right corner of valve cover.

CTS located front right corner area of valve cover in block.

Nothing happened. Was about to give in. Still throwing tons of codes.

I had the engine running and pulled off the MAFS (Mass Air Flow Sensor) power connector while running. Manually goosed throttle. Ran great. Went back to factory setting.

Replaced MAFS. Located as part of Air Filter Lid Housing.

CAR RUNS BETTER THAN EVER BEFORE.

VERY EASY TEST. BEFORE REPLACING ANYTHING TEST THE FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR AND MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR.

09/30/2018