Whats wrong with my engine it misfires?

Tiny
KBHATIA007
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Hello blackop555:
This time did the compression test myself and found that all cyls had roughly 170psi after 5 piston strokes.
Too high but seems to me that the mechanic could be wrong. Now does that point to a clogged convertor? Two independent mechanics have already told me that there is metal coming out of the tail pipe. Truck drove smooth after I assembled the plugs back in the cylinder
really confused now.
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 11:25 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MOREFLYNG
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Thank you. I will check the crank position sensor and report my findings.
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 11:25 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BLACKOP555
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Hmm 170psi is a bit high, maybe a camshaft issue wouldnt worry as long as its runnign good now, could be that a spark plug wire was loose on the plug or damaged and when you were moving them around it made the wire complete connection again.

Would like you to check on that one cylinder momentarly see if when the engine runs rough if the compression drops back down.
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 11:25 AM (Merged)
Tiny
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I replaced the CPS. That was a fun job. Ford made it darn near impossible to get out. Bummer it did not clear up the problem. So I guess on to the ECU. Can the ECU also be called ICM (Ignition Control Module)? And if so, what is the location of this part in the truck for replacement? Thank you.
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 11:25 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KBHATIA007
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I realy appreciate you hanging in there for me and geting me through this, blackop555.
It is back to where we started. I will run over the truck to a muffler place to make sure the converter is not clogged. There are two holes on the side and I can feel the exhaust coming out of there. It has not run bad on idle and city driving like before, but definitely feels as if it is missing. The same vibrations on park and idle and same when the transmission is engaged with brakes on. The worst part is tat it is not displaying any codes. Says everything is good.
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 11:25 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MOREFLYNG
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I found the problem. It was not the ECU/EEC.
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 11:25 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BLACKOP555
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Thats what im here for.

Chances all that would show up is a missfire code. But since pre obd2 didnt have missfire detection. It wont show up.
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 11:25 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
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What was the problem? Other people are interested on how you diagnose it and found the defective component/s
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 11:25 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KBHATIA007
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Interesting observation. The truck has been running fine today(when it is a lot cooler here in Atlanta), but yesterday when it was hot, it acted up after running a few miles and being turned off in a parking lot. Hmm. What can it be?
There was no sign of a skip and the acceleration seemed normal. Idle rpm was higher. Is it a bad fuel pump out of the box? Not being able to keep the prime?. Or is it the ecm not geting fed back properly rom one of the sensors (the brake light does not come on when I engage the parking brake). Btw, in summer time in georgia, the ethanol content can go upto as high as 10%.
So here you go blackop555, does any of it make sense?
Thanks again
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 11:25 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BLACKOP555
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Uhh, check to see if the coolant temp sensor and intake air sensor are same temperature.

Mainly heat would be affecting the igniiton system not the fuel system such as the fuel pump.

Check the fuel pressure.
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 11:25 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KBHATIA007
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Hello Blackop555:
Did not act up yesterday, but checked the fuel pressure and was fine. Everyday when coming to work, it acts after it has been on the highway for about15-20 miles. Every time. The muffler people won't even do a diagnosis but want to change it out, citing it the miles on the truck as an excuse.
Don't know. Do you know a good mechanic in atlanta who can confidently tell me what is going on? At this time everyone want to take a shot on the dartboard and want o change everything out on the truck.
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 11:25 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BLACKOP555
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No I wouldnt, what I would look for would be a individual ASE certified mechanic. Basically call around, describe it. See what they think and see if you an get a quote on it.

Lots of corporations like to go and do big things to make more money.
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 11:25 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KBHATIA007
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Thanks blackop555 for your help. Finally took it to a ford dealer and the truck did not act up when they had it for two days. They are suspecting a fuel injector. So I am going to keep driving it till it acts up. I have a stethoscope with me in the truck so in case it does, will try to figure out which one.
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 11:25 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BLACKOP555
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If your close enough you can take it to the dealership without turning it off and have them go for a spin!
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 11:25 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KBHATIA007
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Hello its me again.
Had it going fine for 10 days or so, and then it acted up again. This time when I unplugged the ignition wire from the coil for #3 there was no change in th erpm, when I plugged it back, the engine was back to normal. The injectors were all working with a nice even clicking.
Do I need to change the coil pack? Do we need to reprogram he ECM? What would you do?
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 11:25 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BLACKOP555
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If the coil is bad it could cause the injectors to act up and the spark.

I would try a cheap one that works and see if it remedies, its worth a try.

Second you unconnected and reatached it ran good/ you remove engine running or off?
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 11:25 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KBHATIA007
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Thanks blackop555 for your reply.
The engine was running. When I removed the ignition wire, I could see the sparks from the coil to the wire boot, which in turn tells me that the coil was ok?
The wire sets in use are non-ford parts (the spark plugs are oem motorcraft from the dealer). I have already changed two sets of wires with the same result. Do you think that I should just buy the wire set from the ford dealer also? Also go ahead, spend the money and buy a new coil from ford? Or is it something else that needs to be explored.

This is so confusing.
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 11:25 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BLACKOP555
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Measure the resistance of the plug wires, should be no more then 10,000 ohms per foot of the wire.

The coil, I would go with a cheap coil and if it clears up then chances are that was the problem, some aftermarket work just as good as oem.
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 11:25 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KBHATIA007
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Hello:
The wire set in use had an average resistance of about 6K/ft. Replaced them with the other set that was about 2K/ft. So let us see the difference. Tomorrow if it is not better than will go out and buy oem plug wires and then the coil. Guess all three need to like each other. Ha. Ha. Ha.
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 11:25 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BLACKOP555
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2k per foot, very very good! It dont matter if its oem plug wires or not no difference.

Unless you want to.
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 11:25 AM (Merged)

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