FRONT DRIVER SIDE WHEEL LOCKING UP/SKIDDING WHEN BRAKING.
1994 Chevrolet S-10 • 185,000 miles
Sorry for the long story! I replaced the passenger side rear axle shaft along with pinion bolt, wheel bearing and seal, both rear brake shoes, both drums, and all brake hardware for rear. But I never bled them (i know I know!) Drove for two weeks. In these two weeks, I felt a slight pull to the front driver side wheel progressively get worse. I then went back and adjusted the adjuster screw and bled the rear brakes. Also tried to bleed the front as well, but broke off the bleeder screw. So drove for one day, still pulling to the front left wheel but now skids when braking quickly. So the next day, I replaced both front calipers so I could bleed the fronts. Bled all four wheels at this time, but still having the same problem with the front driver wheel. And I believe I just have rear ABS. Any ideas?
July 11, 2012.
July 11, 2012.
You may only have rear abson that vehicle as standard. Try replacing your front brake hoses as they may have collapsed inside causing this problem. Then rebleed system.
When I bled all four for the last time, brake fluid came out normally as if nothing was wrong. All four brake normally when doing the bleed process. I've heard of using an ABS scanner when bleeding when the system is not working correctly? I just think its ironic that its only doing this with the wheel closest to the master, like all the pressure is just going to this one wheel and not any further than that.
When hoses go bad they wil let the fluid go through but not return so yoru brake locks up. Also check for grease on the pad. You don't need a scanner to bleed your brakes.
Would the pad need to be replaced if brake fluid got on it? Or would just cleaning with brake cleaner be sufficient?
That is really a toss up there, most of the time you replace the pad bu ti've also cleaned them well and it worked, but you needsuffiecient drying time. I really think you have ahose problem unles you aren't telling us something.
Ok, I dont think it is the pad then, as it did start happening before I changed out the caliper at which at that time I did get a little fluid on the pad but cleaned very well. And I told you down to the very last detail of what work and the time frames I did it in. I will check the hoses. Would you think I 'd have to replace both the front driver and passenger or just the driver side hose that is locking up? Or the passenger side that maybe not getting enough pressure to equal the balance of the other side? Btw, thanks for your input on this, I really appreciate your time.
Replaced both hoses and the hard line from the right wheel to the y valve (saw a little twist in the line). This did make it stop locking up when I break normally with still a small pull to the left wheel, but when stopping abruptly still locks up. Any more ideas?
The only other thing I can think of actually two. Make sure your calipers slide ok in the brackets and then have yoru front end check ed, you may have a bad bushing or worn part making it do this. Unless I actually saw tis I can't give you adefinitive answer.
Jul 12, 2012.
Jul 12, 2012.
2002 Honda Accord mileage: 48,000. Six months ago, my Service Center replaced the front struts on my Accord. They did not say that a wheel alignment was necessary at that time. I now ...
1 answer • 2002 Honda Accord • 48,000 miles
How do I replace rear axle wheel bearings on a 1988 Chevy Suburban 4x4 1500?
1 answer • 1988 Chevrolet Suburban • 150,000 miles
Have a 1998 Ford F150 xlt 4x4-has 134000 miles-I have put a new elec. shift motor on tranfer and also put two new senors on the firewall-but still goes into 4 wheel drive by its self. I...
2 answers • 1998 Ford F-150 • 134,000 miles
This has to do with my 4 wheel drive in 1997 Jeep Cherokee Sport. When in 4 wheel drive it is all over the road and when putback into 2 wheel it clunks and the jeep jumps.
1 answer • 1997 Jeep Cherokee