1993 Saturn oil light blinking / code 26

Tiny
BLACKBOY454
  • MEMBER
  • 162 POSTS
So I have not gotten around to replace any parts yet. And this morning the car wouldnt stay running. Would start up but wouldnt even get to 1500 rpm, I could hold the accelerator and it wud run but as soon as I let go it would shut off. Fuel pump turns on when key is turned, just doesnt stay running. Help! :(
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, March 12th, 2011 AT 5:53 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
  • 30,869 POSTS
I would check the coolant temp sensor it's pretty common for it go bad on that car. It's the bottom sensor with two wire's going to it a yellow wire and black wire. It's screwed into the head below where the upper radiator hose goes on. Also inspect the connector going to it if it's corroded replace the connector too. The tip of the sensor's were made of plastic and they cracked. The sensor is only like 10. Let me know what you find.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, March 12th, 2011 AT 6:51 PM
Tiny
BLACKBOY454
  • MEMBER
  • 162 POSTS
Aside from that anything else that would make it not stay running? The temperatures have been fluctuating between freezing and not freezing the past few days here. Drove the car around town all day yesterday without a problem. Parked it for the night around 11, went to start it around 730 next morning and rpms didnt go past 500 before it shut off. Asked my friend and he said possible dirty fuel injector. And if a fuel line happened to freeze would it start at all?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, March 12th, 2011 AT 7:23 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
  • 30,869 POSTS
Its not going to be a dirty or bad injector that would cause a miss on one cylinder. Try this hold the gas pedal all the way to the floor while starting it when it starts keep holding to the floor see if the rpms will go to the rev limter that way. Let me know what you find.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, March 12th, 2011 AT 8:41 PM
Tiny
BLACKBOY454
  • MEMBER
  • 162 POSTS
I have been reading up in my haynes book on the previous and also current code 26 for my canister purge solenoid, and it sounds like this might be hindering the engine from starting smoothly every time from a cold start. My dad and I got the car to idle for a bit and tried tinkering around a little. My chosen move is to order the evap purge canister and replace it and see if it fixes it. Seems like a good place to start being as how it was on the to do list for the vehicle in the first place.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, March 12th, 2011 AT 11:45 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
  • 30,869 POSTS
You can try that but when they go bad I really haven't seen them stick open the just don't open when there commanded to. Have you checked the coolant temp sensor it's really common for them to go bad and cause starting running and many other thing's to happen. Even if the canister purge solenoid was stuck wide open I just don't see that keeping it from running.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, March 13th, 2011 AT 1:10 AM
Tiny
BLACKBOY454
  • MEMBER
  • 162 POSTS
I havnt replaced or adjusted anything on the car and it started up and idled fine. Was just a little hesitant on initial starting. Will start with the purge solenoid to be safe then troubleshoot coolant sensor. Its not uncommon for my brothers and I to get the very uncommon and unexpected car malfunctions. Minnesota weather is tough on vehicles as well. Ill update when I get around to it. Thanks again for all your help.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, March 13th, 2011 AT 3:25 AM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
  • 30,869 POSTS
Alright keep me posted I vote for the coolant temp sensor.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, March 13th, 2011 AT 4:35 AM
Tiny
BLACKBOY454
  • MEMBER
  • 162 POSTS
Drove it to work this morning, was able to start it and it idled on its own for about 15 minutes to warm up in the cold and I got in and drove it to work, at every stop sign the engine idled down to rediculously low rpms about 400-600 and at a few stop signs it quit, thankfully it is a 5 speed and I just feathered the throttle when the car wasnt in gear or when the clutch was engaged. Boggles my mind but its how I will have to drive until I find my part. Found one online for $50 but will have to wait for shipping. O'reileys has to special order it and they havnt even called me back with price info and I highly doubt my local auto value or napa would have it.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, March 13th, 2011 AT 1:38 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
  • 30,869 POSTS
You could always try the coolant temp sensor they usually have those in stock and there only like 10. It's really common for those to go bad. All the bad canister purge's solenoid's I have seen I have never seen them cause the problem's your having.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, March 13th, 2011 AT 3:05 PM
Tiny
BLACKBOY454
  • MEMBER
  • 162 POSTS
Ok this morning going to work it was same story as my previous comment, went home for lunch, same thing. Going home from work and the engine rpms didnt want to go below 2,000 whenever I engaged the clutch at stop signs. The engine rpms remaining high is what it had been doing for about a week and a half to 2 weeks before it not wanting to stay running on saturday morning. This may sound like I am providing too much information but it in my mind is relevant to the situation. I will try replacing both purge solenoid and coolant tmep senser as soon as I can because this is driving me nuts.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, March 14th, 2011 AT 12:16 AM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
  • 30,869 POSTS
If it's idling at 2,000 rpm's at idle then you most likely have a vacuum leak or a sticking idle air control valve I really doubt that a bad canister purge solenoid is causing that. Try this when it idle's that high unplug the supply line from the valve body to the canister purge solenoid and plug it off if it still idle's that high you are barking up the wrong tree. The best way to find a vacuum leak is when it's idling high spray some carb spray around all the vacuum area's if the idle goes up down stumble's or die's you found a leak.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, March 14th, 2011 AT 4:38 PM
Tiny
BLACKBOY454
  • MEMBER
  • 162 POSTS
It only idles at a lil above 2,000 when the car is moving. If I remain stopped at a stop sign for about 3 seconds or more it idles down to where it should. Oh and I realize that the so called oil light that I was seeing flashing before was a coolant light. Topped off the coolant just now and we will see if it still does it. If it does then I do believe you were dead on about that coolant sensor. I have attached a picture I snapped when it was flashing.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, March 15th, 2011 AT 2:05 AM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
  • 30,869 POSTS
Yeah that would be the low coolant light if it stay's on with it full check to see if the back up light fuse is good. Then unplug the low coolant switch jump the two connectors together and see if the light goes out if it does then you have a bad switch. As far as the high on a stick shift when the computer see's that your moving it raise's the idle up that is normal.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, March 15th, 2011 AT 5:49 AM
Tiny
BLACKBOY454
  • MEMBER
  • 162 POSTS
In that case I will proceed as normal with replacing the canister purge solenoid for my code 26 quad driver, if the coolant temp sensor is good. Since I have topped off the coolant level I have not seen the light flash at all, it didnt look that low before I topped off the coolant but I could have been mistaken as well. Thanks again for your help.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, March 15th, 2011 AT 3:29 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
  • 30,869 POSTS
I would just replace that coolant temp sensor just because its really common for them to go bad and there only like 10. It's hard to tell if there bad without a scan tool that can read engine live data and a temperature gun.I'm on my second sensor on the saturn I have owned going on 5yrs now. It's just cheap insurance also inspect the connector.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, March 15th, 2011 AT 4:49 PM
Tiny
BLACKBOY454
  • MEMBER
  • 162 POSTS
Small question that makes me sound dumb. Is the coolant temp sensor possibly connected or related to the quad driver?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, April 1st, 2011 AT 4:10 AM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
  • 30,869 POSTS
I posted the code description for code 26 no the coolant temp sensor isn't part of the quad driver circuit. The power seat belt module is though does your speedometer work?Does your power seat belt work?So what happen to your canister purge solenoid replacement?Did you test the solenoid before replacing it?Does your radiator cooling fan work?

DESCRIPTION
A quad drive module is a semiconductor device capable of controlling four separate outputs. Each output of the QDM is an open collector driver which when turned on pulls the output to ground. A load is connected between 12 volts and the driver. When the output is turn on, current flows from the battery, through the load, through the driver to ground. Each QDM has a fault line feedback. A comparison of the driver input and output states is performed. If the input and output are in the same state, a fault will be detected. Each QDM has only one fault line that will detect a fault on any of the four

CODE PARAMETERS
Code 26 will set if there is an open or short on any of the QDM output circuits.

DIAGNOSTIC AIDS

Components Resistances:
EGR Solenoid 20 - 50 ohms
Canister Purge Solenoid 20 - 50 ohms
Coolant Fan Relay 80 ohms
A/C Relay 8O ohms

NOTE: all resistance are ±10 ohms

A shorted or open solenoid, relay or bulb can cause a Code 26.

If one output is bad the PCM will shut down only that QDM output and not the entire quad driver unless the Quad driver reaches its thermal limit (short to voltage). At this time it will turn all four Quad driver outputs off. When the Quad driver cools down it will turn back on and this process will start over.

If any corresponding codes have been set: (Example Code 32) diagnose that QDM circuit first.

Check the tightness of the female terminal grip with the spare male terminal.

Use the Saturn Service stall system (if available) to diagnose the Quad Driver circuits.

When viewing "QDM FAULT" (using a scan tool or Dynamic Display), you may notice the fault appears to be intermittent. This may be due to it being an intermittent fault, but more likely is due to the way the fault detection logic works. For example, if the EGR solenoid is off, the PCM expects to see 12 volts on the sense line. If the circuit is open, 0 volts will bee seen, and the fault will be displayed. However, if the EGR solenoid is turned on (for instance at cruising speeds) the PCM expects to see 0 volts on the sense line, and will not detect a fault. In this example, the display would show "QDM FAULT A" at idle, but if the RPM is raised, the display will show "QDM FAULT NONE". When returned to idle, the fault will again be displayed.

NOTICE: When using the Saturn Service stall system to diagnose PCM/EC code 26, a PCM/TC code 51 may be set. Under these circumstances PCM/TC code 51 is a false code.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, April 1st, 2011 AT 6:32 AM
Tiny
BLACKBOY454
  • MEMBER
  • 162 POSTS
Replaced coolant temp sensor, thermostat, and a 30A fuse for the radiator fan, I thought I had checked them all, and no more service engine light. :) Found a receipt for the canister purge solenoid that was replaced professionally a little over a year ago. Now I only have 2 minor issues, anti lock brake indicator light is on and for some reason the door keeps dinging when the door is open and the ignition is in the off position, and key is out of the ignition. Any ideas? Not really a high priority at this time but would help to get absolutely everything taken care of on my car. Thanks again for all your help.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, April 4th, 2011 AT 2:59 AM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
  • 30,869 POSTS
If it's a slow beeping minder it's for the key. If so is the key cylinder popping all the up if it is you will have to replace the ignition switch the electrical one. It's pretty common for the key minder on the switch to stick and not release and cause the warning chime to stay on. As far as the abs light goes if you can get the car scanned with a abs code scanner and get me the code numbers I will help you out with that.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, April 4th, 2011 AT 4:47 AM

Please login or register to post a reply.

Sponsored links