Car cranks but won't start

Have u tried changing the ignition control module on side of distributer?If thats good try changing the map sensor on fire wall. Im sure you know what im saying.

So you're saying everything is dead, just the same as if there was no battery in the car? If that's correct, start by checking the two large copper nuts on the starter relay / solenoid on the inner fender. Ford likes to use one of them as a common tie point for all of the other electrical circuits.

If those nuts are tight, use a test light or digital voltmeter to follow the battery cables to see where voltage is lost. That will be the point to look for a bad connection.

Have your codes checked....'round here "autozone" is capable of scanning obd i.....write down the exact codes (not just their "interpretations"

Sorta sounds like a fuel issue......check your fuel pressure too

Whenever a "new arrival" comes to my house, or "the family"i do a full 100% tune-up, and replace all fluids....all!

I like to start out fresh/ know what i'm up against/ i usually run across other stuff that needs attention during the process.........in case you ain't noticed...people will lie to ya!

These are very good guides.....i generally perform "overkill"

Http://www.2carpros.com/questions/2007-ford-taurus-tune-up

I also do this.......as a pre--purchase test.....sometimes it makes 'em mad, it also gives me some leverage on price.............."up front" before i do it, i tell 'em " a steady needle at 20hg" is what i wanna see!.......if it's steady and low, i sorta feel like i can tune it in better (but they don't know that), i might offer lower----if they don't believe me.......i sometimes show 'em my dash mounted vacuum gauge in my jeep....it's pullin' a steady 21hg at idle

Http://www.2carpros.com/questions/1988-ford-bronco-need-heads-rings-bad

Lemme know how things are going

The medic

-Put the engine no.1 piston on its compression stroke/TDC, align the crank pulley to 0/TDC markings-check if rotor is pointing to no.1 cap tower if not remove the distributor and reinstall it making sure rotor is pointing to no.1 cap tower, attempt to start-if it starts use a timing light to set the ignition timing to specs

Check the brown fusible link on starter relay by battery it should have twelve volts on both sides that powers the fuel pump relay and may be your problem. I am assuming you cannot hear the pump kick on when key is turned on. If that is burnt up no fuel it will attach to an orange/light blue wire.

Then if you are spraying either in it and it is starting there is an ignition problem not letting fuel injection work. Scan for codes and follow pictures for instructions test ignition system only as you already have fuel pressure.

Have you done any of the tests I sent? What I sent is to diagnose your problem. Please follow those to see why your car isn't starting