Mechanics

WAGON LE MOTOR STALL 5 SECONDS AFTER STARTED

1988 Toyota Van • 4 cylinder 2WD Automatic • 220,187 miles

I have a 1988 toyota van wagon Le with 2.0L and I need to know how to test the Igniter. I have called everyone in this town and no one can seem to know what an igniter is let alone testing one! The van has had a problem of stalling out 5 seconds after it is started. I checked the fuel pump, coil, pick up coil, wires, injectors, and there are no trouble codes on the self diagnostics obd 1 HELP PLEASE!
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Dicekoff
March 3, 2011.




Our database does not have any testing procedureds for the ignitor. The uslau test is to check all others such as power upply etc and if all are good and you do not have sparks, the ignitos is substituted to test.

When engine stalled, are you able to restart easily? Does keeping some accelerator pedal pressure keep the engine running?


KHLow2008
Mar 3, 2011.
When the van stalls and I try to restart it does the same thing it will start then stall after 5 seconds. Pressing the accelerator does nothing to help it run longer.


Tiny
Dicekoff
Mar 3, 2011.
I believe it is not the ignotors fault, more likely a sensor fault.

Was any repairs carried out prior to this occurring?

Have the ground circuit connections checked.

Have you tried to retrieve for trouble codes?

http://www.2carpros.com/articles/toyota-trouble-code-definitions-and-code-gathering-method-1990-1995

The above link should be helpful.


KHLow2008
Mar 4, 2011.
Ok so I checked everything in the dist. Like coil, cap, volts ect. One more time and this time I decided to check the air gap on the pick-up coil and found out that it is damaged and one of the wires was frayed. But when it was tested it showed 160 ohms which is in range. So im going to replace it and see how it acts. Is there anything else I should know?


Tiny
Dicekoff
Mar 4, 2011.
The wires fraying would not affect the ohm reading. Only any damage to the coil itself would have any effect.

So far you are doing things correctly so after replacement of parts we shall see how it goes.

ECU is programmed to detect ignition problems.
Checking for trouble codes can speed up your diagnosis.
If ECU detects a problem a diagnostic code will be set in memory

Verify "CHECK ENGINE" light circuit is operational.
Ensure battery voltage is above 11 volts and charging system is okay.
Engine must be at normal operating temperature.
Transmission/transaxle must be in Neutral or Park.
Air conditioner and other accessories must be off.
Throttle valve must be closed (throttle position idle contacts closed).
Turn ignition switch to "ON" position with engine off.
Place jumper wire across "TE1" (or "T") and "E1" terminals in engine check connector.
Count number of flashes from "CHECK ENGINE" light.
If system is operating properly (with no codes), "CHECK ENGINE" light will blink continuously and evenly.
NOTE: If "CHECK ENGINE" light stays on and will not blink codes, verify battery voltage is present at "TE1" (or "T") with key on and engine off.
Ensure "E1" has continuity to ground or self-diagnostics will not work.
If ground ("E1") is open, jumper "TE1" (or "T") to battery ground.

A trouble code will be identified by a.5 second flash on and off for the first number.
A 1.5 second pause will occur followed by the second number.
If more than one code is stored, a 2.5 second pause will occur before second code is flashed.
Once all codes have been displayed, a 4.5 second pause will occur and code(s) will repeat.
Trouble codes are given from smallest number code to largest number code.
After codes are retrieved, remove jumper wire to exit diagnostic mode
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KHLow2008
Mar 4, 2011.

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