1984 Jeep CJ7 CJ Stalling when idling

Hey couple of things.
I CAN ALSO SHOW YOU HOW TO FIND A "KEEPER" INEXPENSIVE, TRUST-ABLE MECHANIC (IF YOU NEED ONE) I PROMOTE DIY TO THE FULLEST EXTENT! ---- I'm Interested

I CAN ALSO SHOW YOU HOW TO SAVE A GOOD CHUNK OF $$$ IF YOU ARE BUYING YOUR OWN PARTS ---- Very Interested!

"Have to Choke?" -- I don't guess I know what you are asking.

I agree with your premise though, for one reason or another my fuel mixture is too lean. The question is what is the best way to fix it. Since I broke or (as I am telling my wife) discovered the broken stepper motor, I can try to replace the stepper and rebuild my carb. Or I can go to the older model Carter, or move to the Ford carb.
I'm not thinking I have a vacuum leak, I have looked, capped hoses and ports, and tried to tighten all the bolts and screws on the existing set up. I could have missed one, and I will try the trick with the carb cleaner just to check.
But I cant seem to get the pins to move no matter what I try, so I am thinking that is the cause of the incorrect fuel mixture.

Any thoughts here?

THE PINS WILL NEVER MOVE!-ALL THE CRAP THAT MADE IT WORK ARE GONE/ BROKE

BASICALLY, IT IS NOW AN OLDER BBD, WITHOUT A STEPPER

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/2001-dodge-neon-milage-just-want-put-fliuds-their-locations

MORE COMING SOON

THE MEDIC

HERE'S THE MECHANIC PART

I DO NOT SEE WHERE YOU MIGHT NEED 'EM FOR THE JEEP, EXCEPT MAYBE FOR A TRANNY/ ENGINE/ AXLE REBUILD (MORE COMPLICATED STUFF) EVERY THING ELSE IS A BREEZE! I CAN HELP YOU THRU IT ALL! AS LONG AS YOU ALWAYS RETURN TO THIS THREAD, I WILL GET NOTIFIED, NO MATTER HOW LONG YOU WAIT.

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/2005-ford-f-150-dealer

I'VE GOT MORE GOOD INFO, I JUST HATE GIVING IT UP SO QUICK, AS I MIGHT NOT GET TO "HELP FIX", SHOULD YOU OPT FOR THE GREAT INFO

OBVIOUSLY, YOU HAVE NOT COME ACROSS IT IN OLDER POSTS YET! (YES, I GOT ABANDONED WITH THEM ALSO!) THERE ARE STILL THE FEW WHO COME BACK FOR ANOTHER HELPING OR TWO!

ARE YOU READY TO START TUNING???

HAVE YOU ALREADY TRIED/ DONE SO, BY LOOKING AT OLDER CJ POSTS I ANSWERED?

NEED ME TO STEER YOU THRU IT AGAIN?

DO YOU HAVE THE DWELL/ TACH AND TIMING LIGHT AVAILABLE?

HAVE YOU BEEN ABLE TO COMPREHEND POSTS, PAST AND PRESENT, WITH MY- WELL-UNIQUE APPROACH WITH MY WRITING/ 'SPLAINING AND PICS?

IF YOU HAVE ELIMINATED ALL VACUUM LEAKS (YOU MIGHT EVEN CAP OFF THE BRAKE BOOSTER PORT ON THE MANIFOLD [TEMPORARILY] TO SEE IF THINGS IMPROVE, AS THE OLE BOOSTER MAY BE SUCKING AIR [WHICH IS A VACUUM LEAK IN ITSELF -REPLACE IT IF IT'S BAD]. SOMETIMES YOU CAN HEAR ONE HISSING NEAR THE PEDALS OR AT THE FIREWALL

ANYWAY, IF ALL IS GOOD, I FEEL LIKE WE CAN TUNE YOU UP WELL

YOUR TURN

THE MEDIC

I am leaving on Friday and will be gone until next weekend. When I get back I was already planning on setting the timing.I have read through the timing post a couple of times, and I think I can do it, but I think I will check with you first before I start to make sure I have everything right before I start.

Thanks for the link I will absolutly use that for any parts orders I need down the road.

I will be able to get out and check all the vacuum leaks tomorrow, thanks for the heads up on the break booster, I hadn't thought of checking that for a leak.
I will let you know what/if anything I find before I head out on Friday, and then I will touch base after I get back and we can talk through the timing stuff before I tackle that.

Thanks again for all your help. Talk to you soon.

I'M BORED

GLAD WHEN YOU GET BACK!

THE MEDIC

I'm back! Lets work on the timing, and get this thing running right. I will reread through your other posts, but any info you have to add is awesome.
Thanks,
GR

I RECKON YOU ARE SORTA GOING BY THE "STALLS WHEN HOT" CJ POST?

KEY STUFF (WHICH YOU MIGHT REPEAT A TIME OR TWO) SORTA LIKE CALLING IN ARTILLERY, YOU "BRACKET" YOUR TARGET, SLOWLY WALKING THE ROUNDS IN TILL YOU NAIL IT!

1) GET IT TO OPERATING TEMP FOR ANY ADJUSTMENTS-CARB OR TIMING

2) NO MATTER WHAT YOU ARE A DOIN, KEEP THE CURB IDLE TO SPECS-EXAMPLE YOU PLAY WITH THE MIX SCREWS AND YOUR IDLE SPEED CLIMBS TO 100 RPM MORE THAN CURB IDLE-FIX IT!-DROP IT 100 RPM WITH THE IDLE SCREW-IT HAPPENS AGAIN AS YOU ADJUST THE OTHER-FIX IT!

IF IT DIES DOWN BELOW CURB IDLE-GET IT BACK TO CURB IDLE!

YOU MAY HAVE TO ADJUST STUFF SEVERAL TIMES-IF THE IDLE IS TOO HIGH, THE MECHANICAL ADVANCE (WEIGHT DRIVEN ADVANCE INSIDE THE DISTRIBUTOR) WILL "ADVANCE" AND CHEAT THE PROCESS. I'VE SEEN THE SPRINGS ON THE MECHANICAL ADVANCE BE BROKEN AND MESS UP THE WHOLE TIMING PROCESS, NOT TO MENTION YOU "LOSE" YOUR MECHANICAL ADVANCE (JEEP HOLDS BACK WHEN TRYING TO DRIVE)

3) LOOSEN THE DISTRIBUTOR BOLT SO THAT IT HAS FRICTION, YOU MUST DELIBERATELY MOVE IT, NOT FLOPPY LOOSE SO THAT IT MOVES ON IT'S OWN

WHEN YOU MOVE THE TIMING-IDLE SPEED WILL CHANGE-FIX IT! THE IDLE SPEED MUST BE DEAD ON WHEN YOUR MARKS ARE CORRECT. TIGHTEN THE BOLT. IS IT ALL STILL RIGHT?

NOW, HOOK UP YOUR VACUUM ADVANCE LINE. IF YOU ARE USING "MANIFOLD VACUUM" (LIKE I DO) YOUR IDLE SPEED WILL INCREASE BIG TIME AS THE DISTRIBUTOR ADVANCES- (I/ YOU FIX IT BACK TO CURB IDLE)

IF YOU USE PORTED VACUUM TO THE VACUUM ADVANCE, CHANCES ARE THAT THE IDLE WILL NOT CHANGE

REMEMBER, YOUR STUFF AIN'T FACTORY ANYMORE

YOUR SPECS ARE 9 DEGREES AT 680 RPM?

YOU COULD SAFELY GO AT 10 DEGREES AT 700 RPM TO KEEP IT SIMPLE, AND MORE LIKE A '79

YOUR TURN

THE MEDIC

Medic,
Thanks for the pointers. Yes I was using the stalling while hot post, I still have it (and several other of your posts) open in my browser from 3 weeks ago for reference.
I have two issues that may affect my ability to correctly.
1) I don't have a working Tachometer, so I have know Idea what RPM I am at idle, or anywhere else for that matter. I simply have been working and driving by feel and sound since I bought it.
Any suggestions how do get the timing right without a working tach?
I have been planning to replace the non working gauges (tach and fuel/temp) but then I started having this idle problem, and so I got diverted from my plan.
If I need to get the gauge working first I will have to order one.
2) I am still having the problem getting the jeep to idle after it warms up, without forcing fuel, or adjusting the fast idle screw to hold the throttle open, and that makes it idle way too high for me to be comfortable leaving it there for long.

I did play with it tonight for a while, and I adjusted the choke, using another of your posts of course, and I had it idle much better, but when I hit the accelerator I had black smoke pouring out of the exhaust, and the fuel smell was overwhelming. I played with it for a while, but I either had the mixture too lean, and lost the idle, or too rich and almost choked my neighbors dog. I went back to the setting I had it at yesterday, since I at least know what I am working with there.

All vacuum lines are removed/plugged, except from the distributor to ported vac, and the PCV per your suggestions. I also checked for leaks everywhere using break cleaner again, and still cannot find anything.

Let me know what you think,

GR

I HAVE NOT FORGOTTEN YOU

I JUST SUBMITTED 2 NOVELS- SPENT ABOUT AN HOUR EACH

SITE WILL NOT LET ME LINK/ NOR CAN I COPY AND PASTE

I BASICALLY "WROTE IT ALL OUT" TO GET PAST THE LINK PROBLEM

BOTH NOVELS AND PICS WERE LOST WHEN I SUBMITTED THEM

TOO LATE AND TIRED TO TRY FOR NUMBER 3

I PROMISE I'LL TRY AGAIN AFTER WORK TOMORROW

THE MEDIC

AT OPERATING TEMP, THE CHOKE SHOULD WANNA "COME OFF" COMPLETELY

THE ONLY THING THAT SHOULD/ COULD KEEP IT FROM STANDING AT ATTENTION (VERTICAL) IS THE THROTTLE, THAT IS, THE CHOKE LINKAGE TO IT

'NUTHER WORDS, ACTUATE THE THROTTLE AND IT SHOULD TURN LOOSE OF THE LINKAGE-CHOKE SHOULD STAND VERTICAL

IF THIS IS NOT THE CASE, WE HAVE A PROBLEM/ ADJUSTMENT/ A REPAIR TO DO

PICS OF THE DRIVER AND PASSENGER SIDE OF THE CARB MIGHT HELP ME FIGGER IT OUT (REMOVE THE BREATHER-AND MAKE SURE THE BREATHER IS NOT INTERFERING WITH THE CHOKE LINKAGE STUFF)

DWELL/ TACH METER? PAWN SHOP?

HERE'S A "GET BY" IDEA

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/sunpro-super-tach-ii-2-5-8-black-face-black-bezel-cp7906/9030131-P?searchTerm=tachometers+%26+related

THIS IS ONE OF MANY ON THE ADVANCE AUTO SITE- THIS ONE IS INEXPENSIVE (THEY WORK RATHER WELL) ONE W/ A LARGER FACE MIGHT MAKE ADJUSTMENTS EZier

NEVER THE LESS YOU CAN SAVE $10 USING PROMO "A124"- ( OR SAVE $25 W/ PURCHASE OVER $70, OR SAVE $40 W/ A $110 PURCHASE) SEE THE "NEON POST" AGAIN TO MAXIMIZE YOUR BUYING POWER. I USED A124 LAST NIGHT TO PURCHASE A WINDOW MOTOR FOR MY MAMA'S '86 T-BIRD, SO IT IS STILL VALID

SO GET ONE YOU LIKE!

FOR NOW WE ARE GONNA TEMPORARILY "JUMPER WIRE" IT FOR UNDER HOOD USE

MIGHT EVEN RIG A MICROPHONE STAND OR COUNTRY BOY EQUIVALENT TO HOLD IT CLOSE TO YOUR ADJUSTING AND NOT HAVE IT LAID IN THERE ON THE ENGINE WHERE IT WOULD VIBRATE TERRIBLY

WHEN YOU FINALLY GET A "SHOP MODEL"- YOU CAN INSTALL THIS ONE IN THE DASH OR ON THE COLUMN

JUST SO YOU KNOW "WHY"

IF THE RPMs ARE HIGH - YOU MAY BE RUNNING ON YOUR "MAINS" INSIDE THE CARB (NOT ON THE IDLE CIRCUIT) IF YOU AIN'T ON THE IDLE CIRCUIT, ADJUSTING THE MIXTURE SCREW IS FRUITLESS

SAME FOR THE DISTRIBUTOR- TOO MUCH RPMs WILL MAKE THE INTERNAL "MECHANICAL (CENTRIFUGAL) ADVANCE"- START ADVANCING ON IT'S OWN-THUS MESSING UP YOUR STARTING POINT

LOTS OF THINGS CAN THROW IN GLITCHES THAT WILL HAVE YOU CHASING YOUR TAIL! TO MAKE IT ALL WONDERFUL, IT ALL MUST COME TOGETHER!

EVEN GETTING MORE TECHNICAL, IF THE SPRING(S) FOR THE WEIGHTS ON THE MECHANICAL ADVANCE ARE MISSING OR BROKEN, YOU CAN "TIME IT" FOR IDLE (IT'LL ACT RIGHT), BUT IT WILL COUGH AND "HOLD BACK" AS YOU ACCELERATE, AS IT IS UNABLE TO THROW THE SPARK SOONER AND SOONER AS ENGINE SPEED INCREASES

I CAN HOOK YOU UP WITH "THEORY" ON THIS STUFF IF YOU NEED SOME MORE ENGINE SCHOOLING -IT'S ALL IN ANOTHER POST!

YOUR TURN

THE MEDIC

Hey Medic,
Sorry I went quiet. We decided to go out of town for a couple of days at the last minute. Trying to get everything in until the kids go back to school.
I am going to order the tach from advanced. Can you walk me through the "jumper wire" set up? I am planning on having some time to work on this tomorrow or Monday. I have the timing light. Should this tach and the light get be ready to set the timing?
I haven't had any luck finding a dwell/tach meter at the pawn shops or Harbor freight with the kit you pictured in another post.
Thanks.

When you get the tach. Inside will be a piece of paper

My wife thinks that kinda paper is for packing purposes and immediately crams it into the far depths of our trash can, normally this is moments before the trash truck arrives

In case yours has you believing this too, it is not!

This is the instructions!

Most likely, it's gonna be 2 wires that you need

1) a ground

2) negative side of the coil

On the back side, you will move the selector switch to "six (6) cylinder"

Hooking up the light would be optional for under the hood-basically it would need 12 volts-not necessarily thru the light switch as when dash mounted!

Confident?

The medic

Grasor, did you ever find the problem? I have a 83 CJ7 that will only stay running if the gas pedal is pushed in. I have a in line fuel filter that appears to stay empty. I did replace the fuel pump.