Wheel lug studs missing?

100 foot / pounds is correct. I'm very happy you understand the importance of using a torque wrench. Most competent do-it-yourselfers do not.

First, understand this can be the result of a previous service by someone else. Loose lug nuts will allow them to slide a little and wear away the tapered friction surfaces that hold the lug nuts tight. Over-tightening can be even worse as it deforms the holes in the wheel, also degrading those friction surfaces. Over-tightening is easy to do with air tools, and is especially damaging to aluminum wheels.

While over-tightening damages aluminum wheels, it is more likely to pull the threads on the studs when you have steel wheels. The common result is the nut spins but won't back off. Of course, the current mechanic gets the blame, but it's the previous one who caused the trouble, often more than a year ago, when he over-tightened them.

Another problem has to do with putting a coating on the studs. First, if a mechanic is caught using anti-seize compound, he will likely be fired on the spot. That stuff guarantees loose lug nuts. Some people put axle grease on the studs. That can be okay under the right circumstances, but there's some important considerations. First, just about all import vehicles, and a lot of domestic models come with "anodized" wheel studs. That is an electro-plating that serves as a lubricant. No grease of any kind must be used on those. Grease will dissolve that coating, again, leading to peeled threads and nuts that won't back off. Those studs will be light yellow, light blue, or silver.

When you have standard steel studs, only use a very light coating of grease, if you use any. Then, run the nuts on by hand and tighten them with the click-type torque wrench. If a large glob of grease is used, then the nuts are run on with air tools, the grease will build up ahead of the nuts, then be flung out onto the friction surfaces by centrifugal force. Grease on the friction surfaces defeats the purpose.

Unfortunately, the only remedy is to replace that wheel and the nuts. Don't try to reuse the old lug nuts. Their friction surfaces must match exactly those on the wheel. They're damaged beyond that point and will cause a repeat failure.

A less common problem has to do with studs that were just replaced. Even on new wheel bearing assemblies, you can't be 100 percent certain the studs were pressed in all the way. Side forces on the wheel will pull the studs in, but then the nuts are no longer torqued to specs. A lot of shops ask their customers to come back the next day to have the nuts retorqued after a good 50 miles or so. That's usually soon enough to retighten them before damage occurs.

If aftermarket or different wheels were recently installed, matching lug nuts must be used, but also consider the nuts may go on further than before, especially if switching from thicker aluminum wheels to thinner stamped steel wheels. Rust and corrosion likely developed on the exposed threads under the old wheel. Now you're running the nuts on further, over that rust. The rust can make it look like you've reached the desired torque, when you haven't actually achieved the needed clamping force.

Have you checked the other wheels or had a problem with any of them?