1996 Toyota Corolla Kocking noise when turning the wheel on

Tiny
KNOXROCK
  • MEMBER
  • 1996 TOYOTA COROLLA
Noises problem
1996 Toyota Corolla 4 cyl Automatic 115000 miles

I hear kinda knocking noise when I move the car forwards after turning the wheel all the way to the left or right. But I am not be able to hear it when doing the same at a stop or moving backwards. The knocking sound gets repetitive when the car moves faster. I don't hear the sound over the bump or on the straight line. Also, when I drive the sharp corner with a good speed, I can hear a weak but similar sound. I've replaced both axles. Also, I replaced 4 motor mounts and front brake pads and rotors lately.
Although, a mechanic suspects that the strut is the culprit, I can't really trust the idea, because he was at first 90% sure that it was the axle issue, which turned out be wrong. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks.
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Friday, December 5th, 2008 AT 7:51 PM

3 Replies

Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • EXPERT
HI there,

A knocking noise while in motion and on steering lock is normally a faulty CV joint, you will not hear it in the straight ahead position as there is not the excessive load on the faulty joint as when on steering lock, I would have then tested first.

Mark (mhpautos)
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Friday, December 5th, 2008 AT 7:55 PM
Tiny
KNOXROCK
  • MEMBER
Thank you for the prompt reply, Mark!
I have a basic question.
As mentioned, I had both of the axles replaced with new ones in a month or so after I heard the noise. Isn't CV joint part of the axle?
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Friday, December 5th, 2008 AT 8:14 PM
Tiny
MMPRINCE4000
  • EXPERT
Yes. The inside (trans) part of the axle includes the tripod joint, the outside (knuckle) is the CV (constant velocity) side. Both joints contain a good amount of grease and are covered with boots to protect the joints and contain the grease.
Generally when a CV joint fails, the boots become torn/ripped by road debris. The lubricant leaks out and water gets into the joint causing metal to metal contact. First symptom is usually a clicking noise in turns, followed by clunking and grinding.

Jack the car up, put on stands, grasp the wheel and push/pull horizontally and vertically. If there is any play it is a ball joint, tie rod, control arm bushing, or bearing.

You would generally replace the strut if you see fluid leaking on the strut piston, or the spring has collapsed or is sagging
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Saturday, December 6th, 2008 AT 10:21 AM

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