Severely discharged battery

Tiny
KLOKUS48
  • MEMBER
  • 2002 VOLKSWAGEN BEETLE
  • 2.0L
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 73,000 MILES
My GLS model (just bought 4/"18), had its first "no start" incident on 7/28/18. It had not been started at all the previous week. AA's Mobile Battery Service Computer readout said voltage on arrival was 9.61 volts, and that extensive charging was required to reach full capability. Note: No lights, etc had been left on, and the cause of this "no start" was/is unknown. The Charging System Test Results were"No Problems", with the *No Load" voltage reading 13.92V and 764.5A, and the "Loaded" reading 13.81V and 761.5A. The tester told me that the alternator and starter were fine. And even though he knew that I would be driving on a highway for the next straight hour, he told me that I needed to take it to a garage, once home, to have it fully charged overnight. I requested this service from three different garages, and all told me that that was completely unnecessary, and they do not do that anyway. The next time my car would not start was in early October, and this happened after I drove it for about ten minutes (five only city streets and five on the highway)! It was jump started, though, easily by some wonderful teenagers, and did not fail to start again until Nov. 10th. AAA came out today (10/14) and did the battery testing again. This time it was not nearly as discharged as the first time ( when turning the key did not even result in a noise). Windows, lights, radio, etc, all still worked today, and it even started to turn over, but just could not pull it off. Again, the tester said no new battery needed ( note: age is under two years). He also said the alternator was fine. This time, however the machine he was using for the tests (said it was like a voltmeter) displayed the words "loose wire", and my car would not start after he charged it, and turned it off. He said this was due to the loose wire, and he advised me to take it to a service station tight away- to have the factory alarm disengaged, the aftermarket radio replaced, and the right door latch and lock repaired- as he believed the loose wire would be found doing these things and also that one or more of them were draining my battery (note: 7/28 readout also said the "drain test" result was suspected to be 1.05A). I have no numbers for the tests done today as he never had them printed out. My car is now at a garage whose specialty is Volkswagen and electrical work. I am a bit concerned because he seems to already believe the problem is the alternator, despite that the AAA guy said, the fact that the most common symptoms are not there (no lights, no fading radio, no stalling, no strange noises or smells, add jump starting does work. The price of the Beetle alternator is crazy, (to me). And even though replacing the alternator would put me in serious debt, I know I would not have the nerve to tell him that I needed a second opinion. So, that is why I am explaining this all to you. What do you make of this whole situation? And, thank you ever so much for your help. I am incredibly grateful! Michelle
Wednesday, November 14th, 2018 AT 12:41 PM

8 Replies

Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
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  • 52,797 POSTS
Good afternoon.

The alternator definitely could be the failure. Its job is to maintain the battery to near full charge. The issue is that the charge rate needs to be checked at the time the battery is down. The car only runs on battery power for about one to two hours before shutting off.

As far as the battery, did the dealer load test the battery to be sure it is not internally shorted?

Have you told them the complete story as you have described to me?

The way I would handle it like this. Tell them if you gave them the okay to replace the alternator and that does not fix the issue, you want a refund on the repair and the issue resolved. Get that in writing from the service department.

When you pay for a diagnostic for an issue and they tell you what to repair and it does not fix the car, you are not responsible for that repair. That falls back on the shop for a bad diagnostic.

Roy
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Wednesday, November 14th, 2018 AT 1:21 PM
Tiny
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Hi, Roy! Thank you so much for taking the time to respond to my question! I really appreciate it. Your overall recommendation to get a guarantee in writing seems very wise, and, quite frankly, possibly paying a third of the car's April'18 price really calls for peace of mind, and your suggestion seems the best way to get that.
I must admit that I am not sure what you mean when you say "the issue is that the charge rate must be checked at the time the battery is down ". The voltage, upon arrival of AAA, was 9.61, on 7/28. Today's AAA Battery Testing Service seemed much more casual, and much less professional. Only on 7/28 was the charging system test done both loaded and unloaded, and as I said in my last email I the numbers for the "no load" were 13.92V/764.5A, and for "loaded" were 13.81V/761.5A. I really am quite disillusioned about AAA. If you are right about the problem being the alternator, and they definitely told me twice that the alternator was fine, how can I trust that they know what they are doing at all?
The guy whose service station has my car, was not at all willing to listen to much of anything I had to say. I might have gone someplace else but he is within walking distance of my house, and he specializes in Volkswagen's, and in electrical work. He was supposed to have gotten back to me before closing, but he did not. But he took my car in immediately upon explaining the situation to him, so I am grateful for that. And, again, I thank you, sincerely for your time and your response, Roy. God Bless!
Michelle
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Wednesday, November 14th, 2018 AT 7:38 PM
Tiny
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You are welcome. Always glad to help.

Let us know what he comes up with for your issue.

Roy
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Thursday, November 15th, 2018 AT 7:00 AM
Tiny
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I will, though I am getting a bit nervous, as he told me yesterday, around noon, that he would call one of the two numbers that I gave him later, once he had looked at my car. Granted, he did not say later, today- but it is now almost 3:30 pm the next day, and still no word. I have always heard back from garages much sooner. Of course, there may be extenuating circumstances. Do you think an acceptable amount of time has passed to warrant me calling him? Thanks again! You guys truly are angels!
Michelle
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Thursday, November 15th, 2018 AT 12:30 PM
Tiny
KLOKUS48
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Well, I just called the garage, and believe it, or not, he said that the problem was actually the battery! Does this make any sense to you? This would imply, of course, that AAA's mobile battery service is fraught with problems. Do you think the tool used to do the charging system test, the drain test, etc, could be defective, or do you think the people interpreting the data are not well taught, or just somewhat inexperienced (both were low to mid twenties)? Or do you have doubts regarding the service station that has my car? A. AA's readout said my battery was less than two years old. Also, their interpretations are costing them, I imagine, quite a bit of business selling their batteries. Please respond. I would really love to hear your opinion on the latest. As always, your time, efforts, expertise, and insights are much appreciated!
Sincerely, Michelle
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Thursday, November 15th, 2018 AT 2:30 PM
Tiny
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Okay, yes, it sounds like it could be a shorted battery internally causing the issue.

I would have them replace the battery and recheck the charging system and make sure they are correct.

Roy
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Friday, November 16th, 2018 AT 4:06 AM
Tiny
KLOKUS48
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Sorry to bother you again, but does something not cause a battery to short? And, if that is not addressed, will it it eventually cause this battery to short, also? Thanks again.
Michelle
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Friday, November 16th, 2018 AT 11:18 AM
Tiny
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Yes, it comes from the plates internally shedding material and the material sets to the bottom of the battery. When enough accumulates, it will connect the positive and negative plates and that is a short.

Roy
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Friday, November 16th, 2018 AT 11:29 AM

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