Rear Cargo Light

Tiny
CONNORSD
  • MEMBER
  • 2013 FORD E-SERIES VAN
  • 50,000 MILES
Hello

I was hooking up some new led lights in my 2013 ford e250 van. I didnt think to pull the fuse as I wanted to quickly test if the new lights worked. I ended up shorting one of the wires to ground after confirming the new lights worked. I am currently getting no voltage at the wires. Im thinking its a fuse but I have already replaced the curtesy lamp fuse and it was not the problem. The front interior lights do work.
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Tuesday, December 29th, 2015 AT 6:23 PM

4 Replies

Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
Need a whole lot more detail. Which circuit are you referring to, interior lights? Tail lights? Are you adding led lights in addition to what's already there or are you removing the original lights?

A 2013 is going to have a real lot of fuses, both inside and under the hood. It's a bad idea to remove them to do a visual inspection. Instead, turn on the circuit you're having trouble with, then use a test light to make two real quick checks on each fuse. They have two tiny holes on top for test points. If you find voltage on both test points, that fuse is good. If you find no voltage on either test point, that fuse is in a circuit that is currently turned off. You're looking for a fuse that has voltage on one side and none on the other side. Don't pay any attention to how those fuses are labeled or shown in the owner's manual. A fuse can protest multiple circuits but be labeled for just one of them. Also, there can be multiple fuses for one circuit. Ford is by far the worst company in going seriously overboard with their electronics for things where it's not needed. Most of the lights are switched on and off with a computer module, and those always have multiple power sources. You may find a blown fuse for the "GEM" module, (their version of a Body Computer). There may not be a separate fuse for the circuit you're working on.
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Tuesday, December 29th, 2015 AT 6:58 PM
Tiny
CONNORSD
  • MEMBER
It was a rear interior cargo light replacement. Im running strip led lights as a replacement as stock was not bright enough for my work truck. I was guessing it was a fuse as I did manage to test the lights before the short. I will get a fuse tester and test in the morning. I didnt realize you could get a tester without pulling. Thats good to know. Thank you very much for your help I appreciate it.
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Tuesday, December 29th, 2015 AT 7:02 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
Sorry for the duplicate responses. Pages aren't loading as expected tonight so I keep going "page back" to check that my reply got posted. Each time I reload the page, the previous reply posts again.
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Tuesday, December 29th, 2015 AT 7:02 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
This is just a simple test light. You can find them at any auto parts store, hardware store, Sears, and Walmart. They only cost a few bucks. You can make one too to do the job. Easiest is to use a 154 "peanut" bulb like those used for side marker lights. They have their wires bent around their bases. You can bend the wires straight and hook a clip lead to one of them that gets connected to a paint-free point on the van's body, or the battery's negative cable, then use the other bulb's wire as the test probe.
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Tuesday, December 29th, 2015 AT 7:38 PM

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