Car stalls after replacing steering

Tiny
TORIE357
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 SCION TC
  • 0.5L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 150,000 MILES
So I replaced my stock steering with an aftermarket one (hub, quick release, and steering wheel). Meaning, I disconnected the negative side of the battery, took the air bag out, steering wheel off, and the clock spring (which is where I feel I messed up). I followed a video on YouTube of the same car and I was doing exactly what he was. Come to find out after I put everything together my car seemed to run funny but obviously steered fine (no clock spring). Air bag light was on for obvious reasons. I took my car for a test drive and every time I stopped, turned the a/c or defrost off while at idle, put in reverse, anything to make the rpm's drop. My car would have a rough idle and/or stall. Starts up no problem and rpm's normal while driving. So I get home, do a ton more research. Come to find out, I didn't need to remove the clock spring. So I take everything back off and re-install the clock spring, make sure points are lined up and plugged it back in. I take for a longer test drive and I'm still having stalling issues (no I never reset the clock spring). Plus I notice turning is stiffer then before. I get home and do more research. This morning I took everything apart again and I put the relays I got with my quick release in the air bag clips (like I should've done to begin with) and electric taped them so ik they'd stay in place. Those relays took care of the air bag light but still having the stalling issue. So I watch a video on how to reset a clock spring and try it and it still has a bad idle/stalls. Oh and my automatic feature for my windows stopped working (when I first started all this) and I can no longer put the passenger window down from the driver side door. The clock spring controls up to the radio, cruise control, horn, throttle position sensor (which is why I think it's bad) and a few other things.

I'm hoping I just need a new clock spring, please help.
Monday, March 2nd, 2020 AT 5:43 AM

16 Replies

Tiny
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Good morning,

There is no reset for the clock spring and it has nothing to do with the engine issue at all. It controls the horn, air bag and steering wheel switches if you had them.

Are there any codes set in the system?

Roy
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Monday, March 2nd, 2020 AT 6:27 AM
Tiny
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Good morning Roy. Thank you for responding!

I'm reading everywhere that it could mess with the TPS. That's why I mentioned it. No check engine light, only the B1801 code for airbag showed up yesterday. After I put the relays in to clear the light, the code is gone too.
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Monday, March 2nd, 2020 AT 6:49 AM
Tiny
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The TPS will not cause rough running or stalling. That is mechanical.

To rest your mind, check for a 5 volt reference voltage to the TPS. Beyond that the ECM controls all the engine functions and does not look for anything in the airbag system.

Roy
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Monday, March 2nd, 2020 AT 6:54 AM
Tiny
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Okay, thank you! In a case like mine it ended up working itself out where the car "relearned to idle". I don't have the tools here at home to test voltage unfortunately.

So you're saying my running problems don't have anything to do with my steering wheel swap out? What if there's a bad ground or I blew a fuse?
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Monday, March 2nd, 2020 AT 6:57 AM
Tiny
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A bad fuse? The system would shut down. It would not run rough, it would not run at all. All kinds of lights would be on.

If it were a ground, go over all your connections that you touched. That would also set lights.

Roy
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Monday, March 2nd, 2020 AT 7:02 AM
Tiny
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Okay, well there's no lights beside my tire light (been on since I got the car, all air levels are good, light was reset but keeps coming on) and maintenance required light. I looked up the maintenance required light and it says it's a reminder light and inquires nothing wrong. Could a tune up or starter cause my problem?
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Monday, March 2nd, 2020 AT 7:06 AM
Tiny
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A tune up, yes. The plugs and coils need to be checked as well as the compression to be sure the engine is good.

No, to the starter.

Roy
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Monday, March 2nd, 2020 AT 7:17 AM
Tiny
TORIE357
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Do you think that's part of why my maintenance required light came on?

It's just crazy to me that it happened after the steering wheel. I had to disconnect the negative side of the battery while doing everything. I forgot to mention that. Would that start or cause a problem?
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Monday, March 2nd, 2020 AT 7:25 AM
Tiny
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That is a timed light that is set to appear when maintenance is required. It has nothing to do with your issue.

No, you did correct removing the negative cable.

Roy
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Monday, March 2nd, 2020 AT 7:35 AM
Tiny
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So it's just a coincidence that this happened at the time it did?
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Monday, March 2nd, 2020 AT 7:41 AM
Tiny
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It seems to be from what has happened. There is no connection between the 2 issues.

Roy
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Monday, March 2nd, 2020 AT 8:07 AM
Tiny
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Thank you for your help! I will keep you posted when I figure out what's going on.
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Monday, March 2nd, 2020 AT 8:15 AM
Tiny
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You are welcome.

Always glad to help.

Roy
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Monday, March 2nd, 2020 AT 8:19 AM
Tiny
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I attached a wiring diagram for you to view.

Roy
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Monday, March 2nd, 2020 AT 4:52 PM
Tiny
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I ended up finding out how to "reset" my automatic feature for my windows and they work just fine now and they stopped blinking (1. Make sure windows are closed, 2. Open window all the way, 3. Close window and keep holding for about 5 seconds). My stalling issue worked itself out as I was hoping. So basically every time I disconnected the battery, the car would "forget" how to idle. I drove the car around for about an hour (in the beginning it was wanting to stall) and within 30 mins or so, the car was running normal and has been ever since. It's like the car had to reteach itself how to idle. He's running good and everything is back to normal. Thank you!
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Wednesday, March 4th, 2020 AT 4:04 AM
Tiny
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You are welcome.

Always glad to help.

Roy
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Wednesday, March 4th, 2020 AT 4:22 AM

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