1985 Pontiac Firebird Alternator dying again

The connector in the back of the alternator is clean and tight. There is some power steering fluid at the ground connector with the engine. I cleaned it a while back and althoguht I know I have a leak on the resevoir of the steering pump how is that area supposed to be clean when it is under the car? You mean remove the wire, clean tthe surface and put it back together? Also why is my ignition module dying around the same time my alternator is?

I checked the battery cables and connections and cleaned them but the problem still there. I am using a lifetime warranty alternator that I bought a Kragen same with my modules. The alt was about $130 for a 108 volt and about 30 bucks for the module. All I know is that there is something in my car that is killing all three ( battery, alt and module ) around the same time and it is doing the same thing all over again like the past times. I noticed the following just in case this may help: 1- the voltage drops each and every time my cooling fan comes on. Problem seems to increase when the weather gets boiling hot. 2- I removed the fuse for the radio and this won't kill it. I started to remove fuse by fuse with the 12v test light attached to the battery post and when I removed the CTSY WD fuse the radio died. I checked all connections for that circuit but couldnt find anything. 3- some ( well most of them ) of my dash warning lights don't work. I can see the engine light when I put the key in the ignition but thats about it.
I know the alt will go bad if the battery is going bad since the batt. Will demand more power from the alt to be charged but the question is what is making the battery go bad? This is my second battery in a year and by the way it looks it may be a third one coming very soon.

I think the problem is the gauge itself. I tested the battery at the post and I get a solid 14.36 with the lights on. With the fan and the lights on I get 14.16 while in the dash the gauge reads 11-12 volts. Battery is at 12.5 before car is running while gauge is showing 10 volts.
I was not expecting you to fix my car over the internet and I do know I have to take the car to the professional. All I wanted to get was a possible cause so the mechanic will not rip me off with some mickey mouse reason to take my money. If your answer was pointing at something I could do myself, then even better.
Thanks for your help.

You know what? I was thinking the same thing. When I bought the car it had a sony stereo and they left the wires for the amp unhooked from the battery and I found some more loose wires in the jack compartment. I still can see some red and white coaxial wires underneath the radio in between the center console and the radio console. I guess the only way to find out will be to remove the stereo and have someone take a look rite?
Well see the battery in the car ( the one that came with the car when I bought it ) died maybe 3 months down the raod. Then I bought another one and it last me about 3-4 months then this is the scary part. It has been 3 months since this last one and I think it is doing the same again.
I tried to disable the radio most of the time ( by removing the CTSY WD fuse from thne box and that seems to have worked but I end up hooking up the radio again

My bad. I had never left the car without using it for no more than maybe 3-4 days and it always start. But one time I went to work in the morning, car started fine and all and when I was leaving in the afternoon around 5 the battery was totally gone like no juice at all. The second time, going to work again but at 4 am I had my headlights on got to work and went back home at 5 pm. Two days later w/out starting the car the battery was dead, no juice at all.

I will sure try that. On a side note yeah I have a problem with the ground since only my engine light comes on when I first put the key in the ignition. All other warning lights are fried.

I know but they wont.

Ok I installed a separate gauge in the dash to monitor the voltage. It was going well but I noticed the following: Once I turn my signals the voltage drops each and every time the lights blink ( meaning the needle in the gauge drops every time the light blinks in a perfect coordination). Other than that stays on the 14 volt range with minor variations and yes sometimes gets down to 13 volts but only with the fan and signal lights on. Is this normal? I was thinking that if the voltage drops means the alt has reached max capacity and can not generate more to keep up the 14.5 volt.

Awesome!