Did you get this fixed? If not yet, is the pedal low and mushy or high and hard?
If it's low and mushy, loosen a cap on the master cylinder and open the bleeder screw and let it gravity bleed for a while. You might have to irritate the brake pedal a little, but never push it more than half way to the floor. Doing so will run the two lip seals down through the lower halves of the bores where they don't normally go and will tear the seals on the corrosion and debris that builds up there. Chunks of crud could be blocking the port, but that would cause a high hard pedal.
A more likely cause of a high hard pedal, especially after it was sitting for a long time, is rust buildup inside the crimp of the metal bracket attached to the center of the rubber brake hose. It pinches off the hose. More commonly hard pressure on the pedal gets fluid to flow to the caliper but the square-cut seal in the caliper isn't strong enough to push the fluid back so the caliper sticks applied. This happened to one of my minivans and a student's Neon two weeks later. It's the only two cases I saw in over 25 years of working on cars, but I've read about it a few times since. My symptom was a high hard pedal; light pedal force caused the van to pull to the right because the left caliper wasn't applying as hard, then it would pull to the left when the pedal was released because the caliper wouldn't release.
Saturday, December 12th, 2009 AT 7:21 AM