Parasitic battery drain

Tiny
NCPATRIOT
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 MERCURY SABLE
  • 65,000 MILES
Battery drain resolved to Fuse 1 in distribution box which just supplies the cabin fuse box. When Fuse 1 is pulled, the 230mA drain drops to 30mA which is normal. Keeping in ammeter in plase of the MaxiFuse 1 I systematically pulled every fuse in the cabin fuse box under the steering column. All but 2 have no effect. The 2 are "Battery Saver" and "Wiper & VAPS". I don't believe they mean windshield wiper motor because that has its own 30A fuse. These fuses are either both 5A or 5A and 10A, maybe they mean the wiper fluid pump? Anyway, clearly there are some relays involved here too, in the circuits that these 2 fuses deal with and it appears that one circuit is fed from the other, normally. Clearly one of them feeds the interior overhead lights, as when I pull either they go out. I am wondering if maybe a relay is stuck energized or something. The factory alarm is a pain in the butt but I finally found out how to put it in valet mode - I would like to completely diasable/remove it if you can help because that can be a culprit. I know many alarms attach to this interior light circuit to pick up that draw to trigger their alarm so they dont have to put in all new door switches. Does anyone have any wiring diagrams pertaining to these 2 fuses and their respective relays? Or how to disable/remove the alarm permanently while still keeping the remote door lock/unlock function?
Thanks!

P.S. I am very competent with electronics/engineering and equipment is not an issue. I am not as competent with cars which is why I am here ;)
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Friday, April 26th, 2013 AT 7:14 AM

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Tiny
NCPATRIOT
  • MEMBER
To follow up: The fuses are: #23 5A GEM, RAP, PATS but labeled "Wiper & VAPS". And #27 10A Battery Saver Relay and labeled as "Battery Saver".

The fuses in question are #34-Battery Saver, #37-Interior Lamp, and #39 Accessory Delay.

How do I isolate further to narrow down where this 200mA parasitic drain is? Can I pull those relays straight out or are they secured somehow? Is there an easy way to bypass the trunk and engine hood latches to make them ALWAYS seem closed so there is no issue there? Any other process of elimination ideas I can try?
Thanks!
-NCPatriot
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Friday, April 26th, 2013 AT 8:35 AM
Tiny
PILOT72
  • MEMBER
NCPatriot, cannot help you with your electrical problem as I am having similar problems with my 1998 Explorer, however can help you with a wiring diagram, go to ebscohost. Com
user: rrcc password: rebsco, then just follow prompts for getting what you want for your vehicle. All kinds of excellent stuff available, repair books, wiring diagrams, ect. I downloaded the wiring diagram for my vehicle, but not being an electrical type of person or mechanic, it did not tell me much, I'm sure with your background you will have no problem. If you do find a cure
let me know as it may apply to my problems too.

Pilot72
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Saturday, April 27th, 2013 AT 6:10 AM

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