Thanks for your response, Ken. Before I saw your reply, I had done some other research online and saw that some people suggested double checking battery terminals and cables, as well as the alternator, since they said this code can sometimes be triggered by voltage issues. There was some corrosion on the terminals, but not much, and the negative battery cable was not 100% tight, so I took off both terminal connectors, cleaned the connectors and the terminals, and put them back on. Then I started the car so I could check the voltage at the battery while running, for the sake of checking the alternator. The voltage was 14.35 with the engine running and no accessories on, and with the headlights on and blower fan (just fan, not AC) it was 13.95. I also went ahead and plugged in my code reader while doing this and noticed that the check engine light turned itself off and the reader said there were no codes, so I guess the ECU no longer saw the fault and cleared the code on its own.
I thought I was in the clear, but then when driving home from work the same day, after about 45 minutes of driving, the CE light came on again. The difference this time was that I did notice some engine surging about 2 different times after the CE light had come back on, but I still had another 30 minutes of driving and the engine felt fine for the rest of the drive.
Anyway, not sure if any of this information helps or perhaps points to something other than changing out the Cylinder Position Sensor or repairing its wiring.
Friday, February 9th, 2024 AT 8:19 AM