P0325 Code

Tiny
SZALKUSKT
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 NISSAN FRONTIER
  • 3.3L
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 207,500 MILES
I have the truck listed above. Manufactured 08/1999. I am diagnosing it for a friend of mine. He has complained of hard starting issues at different times. I have driven it. It drives at cruise speeds okay but with 207,000 miles it seems to cruise okay at highway speeds. It does have hard starting problems intermittently. First thing I did was scan OBDII for codes and I have a P0325 code and a P0325 "pending" code. I know it is a knock sensor 1 circuit malfunction. I understand that the sensor is under the intake manifold. I have read that knock sensor is not important but me I know it is coming on for a reason. I cleared the codes and started engine back up and codes reappeared quickly. Also, there is No CEL light on instrument panel, only the codes P0325 twice on my scanner. P0325 and P0325 "pending". I want to know how the P0325 can affect my drivability or hard starting or idle issues. Thanks.
Thursday, May 31st, 2018 AT 8:18 PM

12 Replies

Tiny
JIS001
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,411 POSTS
Hello SZALKUSKT and thank you for using 2CarPros. Nissan has always had an issue with posting that fault code with the knock sensor. The code will not go away no matter what you do. So for now you should ignore the fault code and actually try to duplicate the concern.

When your friend has the no start condition does the vehicle crank over? If you have a no crank no start condition then look at the warning relay but I would suspect the park/neutral relay. But as stated earlier, you would need to duplicate the concern and when it does not start does the vehicle crank over? Let us know.
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Friday, June 1st, 2018 AT 1:19 AM
Tiny
SZALKUSKT
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Actually the truck has hard starting. What I mean is that it starts but very sloppy. It takes an extended amount of cranking in order for it to start up, but it does start sometimes with more cranking. Also, what usually causes the knock sensor codes on these particular vehicles?
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Friday, June 1st, 2018 AT 1:49 PM
Tiny
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Check your distributor. I have seen them go bad. Remove the distributor and move the rotor back and forth fast. The gear at the bottom should move with it. If there is any play then replace the distributor. That play will cause a hard start and rough running. If okay then check your fuel pressure. As for the knock sensor code, it could just be a ghost code. A misfire or wrong fuel causing pre detonation can cause it to post that code also.
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Sunday, June 3rd, 2018 AT 7:26 PM
Tiny
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  • 274 POSTS
I removed distributor cap and rotor to find that the screw that goes down inside the center metal base of the distributor was loose. I put Locktite and re-secured it along with a new cap and rotor and Locktite the screw also that holds the rotor to that metal base which was loose causing the whole rotor to be loose and wobbly. So I put new plugs, wires and distributor cap and rotor. Engine seems to run better and more power with first cold start up after all the maintenance I did. We will see in coming days how it performs. I will reply back to report on it as it is not my car. I will explain to my friend all that is going on.
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Sunday, June 3rd, 2018 AT 10:34 PM
Tiny
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Thank you for the reply back and let us know if the truck is still running good.
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Monday, June 4th, 2018 AT 5:27 PM
Tiny
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Seems to be better but still low performance and I have noticed that once warmed up the engine will idle at 1,200 rpm's and at different times intermittently at 700 to 800. I think it might have an idle air problem also causing the poor performance on start ups. Also, before I changed the cap and rotor I got shocked from voltage bleeding through the old cap and wires when I placed my hand on top of the distributor while running. Now with new wires and cap it is okay. I am just thinking still having noticeable low power and performance so maybe distributor is weak or worn. I really think the idle variance at different times is in acceptable also.
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Monday, June 4th, 2018 AT 6:18 PM
Tiny
SZALKUSKT
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Hi, I still need some help please. I have noticed that the truck has idle speed variations. After driving it for thirty minutes pulling into the parking lot I noticed the rpm rising and when I put it in neutral or park the engine speed was 1,300 rpm's with A/C off. It does it unexpectedly and inconsistently. I have not removed the distributor yet as it is my friend’s car and he needs to allow me to work on it again. I was just thinking it is an IAC valve problem. Can a truck like this have IAC issues with no code?
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Saturday, June 9th, 2018 AT 1:48 AM
Tiny
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If you corrected the hard start then I would suspect an idle air control fault. The OBD2 system should have detected this by now and posted a code. Also, verify the the engine coolant temperature sensor is reading correctly. If it is thinking it is cold it will raise the rpm high to try and "warm up" the engine.
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Saturday, June 9th, 2018 AT 10:46 PM
Tiny
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I have not had a code for the IAV valve. It does definitely have inconsistent idle values. How can I check the coolant temperature sensor if there is no code posted?
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Saturday, June 9th, 2018 AT 10:55 PM
Tiny
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Once engine is at normal temperature back-probe the the signal return wire. Normally it should read under 1 volt, usually 0.50 volts. If higher it means it thinks it is colder. Also removing spark plugs. If they are wet with fuel it is dumping too much fuel also to try and make the idle high which in turn give you a hard start because the plugs are wet with fuel.
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Saturday, June 9th, 2018 AT 11:13 PM
Tiny
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Do you have a wiring diagram so I can determine which wire is the signal return wire?
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Wednesday, June 13th, 2018 AT 11:06 AM
Tiny
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Light green red stripe should be the 5 volt reference. Brown wire is the signal return. When engine fully warm the brown wire should read under 1 volt. Normally 0.50V.
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Wednesday, June 13th, 2018 AT 10:07 PM

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