Oil in coolant after head gasket replaced

Tiny
SEHELT
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 FORD MUSTANG
  • 3.8L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 170,000 MILES
Originally had a head gasket blown and a lot of coolant in the oil and oil in the coolant. My son and I replaced the head gasket and others (fel-pro kit) and had the heads resurfaced, valve gaskets replaced etc at a reputable machine shop. Now the engine runs great (in the garage) after the initial burn off of oil and it doesn’t overhead. But after 4 radiator flushes and 2 oil flushes, the oil looks fine but the coolant comes out milky. We also replaced the radiator (had hole in it) and thermostat.
Sunday, August 25th, 2019 AT 10:31 AM

7 Replies

Tiny
KASEKENNY
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Hi,

If the engine runs great then we can assume the original issue is fixed. I believe the issue is, you just have not flushed all the oil out of the coolant passages. If you have any oil in the coolant it will "spread" and make the coolant milky.

What I would suggest is flushing the system in sections. Clearly, it would have been best to do this before you installed the radiator so you didn't get the milky coolant in the new radiator. Since that is done, you want to flush the radiator by itself, then the engine, and then the heater core by itself. Doing it this way you will know which section is not coming clear. I suspect you have a bunch of milky coolant in the heater core and as the engine gets hot, it breaks it loose and it infiltrates the rest of the system.

The best thing to do, is replace the heater core if it doesn't come clean but clearly don't put the system back together until each section has clear water coming through. Hot water would be the best if this is possible.

Let me know what happens and we can go from there.
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Sunday, August 25th, 2019 AT 11:38 AM
Tiny
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Thanks! I'll try that. The first three coolant flushes I did were with the old radiator and no thermostat, The fourth flush and then one with just water were after I installed a new thermostat, hoses and radiator.
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Sunday, August 25th, 2019 AT 11:54 AM
Tiny
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Okay. I suspect the radiator will flush clean pretty quick but the heater core and engine may take a while longer so just be patient. If you flush each quite a bit more, you may still have a leak. However, I doubt this.

Before you start, mark dip stick where the oil is so you can see if the oil is dropping at all. Again, I am sure this is fine but if you don't mark it, then you will never be sure to know because it won't drop enough to see it without a reference point.
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Sunday, August 25th, 2019 AT 1:36 PM
Tiny
SEHELT
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Each of these would need to be flushed without the engine running. Correct?
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Sunday, August 25th, 2019 AT 2:13 PM
Tiny
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Yes. You will need to completely separate the radiator through the upper and lower hoses or just remove it and flush it with a hose.

The heater core can be done the same way. Just remove the inlet and return hose from the heater core and use a hose then route the return hose to a bucket.

Then for the engine, if you hook it up with a constant source of water and you bypass the heater core (connect the inlet and return hose), you can actually run the engine to flush the block. This would be best because then it will get nice and hot. Just tap the hose into the lower hose so it pulls the new water in and then put an extension on the return hose so it doesn't dump the milky fluid all of the engine. Just route into a bucket. Then once you start getting clean water you can just let it run on the ground for a little longer.

It is not necessary to run the engine. If you have a hot water tap that you can hook a hose too, the hot water will help break lost all the gunk in the passages.
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Sunday, August 25th, 2019 AT 2:23 PM
Tiny
SEHELT
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That worked! I wish I had done that the first time. Thanks!
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Monday, August 26th, 2019 AT 8:35 AM
Tiny
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Awesome! Glad you got it taken care of. Thanks for the update. Good work and come back if you have other issues.
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Monday, August 26th, 2019 AT 2:02 PM

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