No crank no start?

Can you please give me the code numbers? Also, I would see if the engine turns over by hand, this video will show you how:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oN42gZN6gOE

Also, this video may help as well:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6YRW8fyNudY&t

Please go over these guides and get back to us.

The battery is new. All of this started when I changed the intake gaskets. After I put it all back together it started but ran rough. All of the fuel had leaked out, so I changed the injector o rings as well because they were all melted from the car overheating. When I was bleeding the cooling system ran out of gas. After that fuel tank pressure sensor code popped up so I changed all of those sensors plus the fuel pump then it was crank no start and some other sensor codes popped up, so I removed and re-wrapped the wiring harness because there were bare wires then it started and drove a couple of miles but then it stalled. Started it up but then it would stall every time I turned the wheel. Then it would just stall out right after start up without turning the wheel and now it’s just no crank no start but I checked, and the wire harness is all plugged in correctly and nothing is touching. All the original codes are gone but new ones popped up. I’ll list them. Also, the ABS and traction control lights are illuminated on the dash now.

My Autel won’t connect to it now for some reason but these were the codes from yesterday. Also, when I try to turn the key, the power shuts off but comes right back on when I release the key from the cranking position and put it back in acc.

Only thing I can come up with is I messed up the ECM by working on the car in the rain.

I fixed it. It ended up just being a loose ground wire, lol.

Nice work! Yep the ground wires can cause all kinds of strange problems.

It turned out to not be the loose ground wire because it wouldn’t start again. I did a parasitic draw test because it kept saying service charging system, but I had just changed my alternator so I had a parasitic draw somewhere and I found it by unplugging the negative cable and attaching my multimeter set at 10 A with the red cable in the 10 a slot and the black one in the com spot and I put the red lead on the negative cable and the black lead on the negative post which showed a three point something reading when it was supposed to be .5 or under so I started pulling fuses and when I got to the BCM fuse, the amperage dropped significantly which meant that’s where my parasitic draw was coming from so I looked up wiring schematics and read a bunch of forums which led me to the wire in the trunk. Apparently there is a wire attached to the module that’s directly on the back side of the rear seat and when you do anything in the trunk, especially the fuel pump like I did, sometimes that wire casing gets pushed back and even though there was less than an inch of bare wire showing from the casing being pushed back, that was enough to make my car not start. I just thought I’d put this on here in case anyone was having a similar issue because it was really hard for me to find that information online.

That is a great find, and I am sure it will help others that come to the site :) thanks for letting us know.