1995 Mitsubishi Mirage 95 Mirage draw on my battery keeps d

Tiny
BAGG'D&DRAGG'N
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  • 1995 MITSUBISHI MIRAGE
Electrical problem
1995 Mitsubishi Mirage 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Manual

hello I own a 95 mirage with an air ride system the car was a little messed up when I bought it but nothing major had a problem with the battery always being dead in the morning so I finally bought a brand new battery and a brand new altinator and I though that fixed the problem. She ran great for two months then one day I took a friend to work and on the way the check engine light came on for a min when I got home she was parked for 40 min while I got ready for work and when I came out the battery was dead again. I have taken my test light and tried to diagnose the problem that way as of this moment everything external has been removed auxillary lights, stereo, air ride has been disconected so the only things hooked up to the battery is the starter and the altinater. I took out every fuse from under the dash one at a time and the light stayed on my test light even unhoked the altinater and the light stayed on took it over to the local auto parts store and their computer said my battery and charging system was all good. I can jumpstart her and she will fire right up. Any ideas on what I can check next somedays she wil run till I shut her off then it's dead other times she wil run for a couple days and then I need a jump again. This is getting very frustrating any help will be greatly aprecieated
Sunday, May 30th, 2010 AT 8:24 PM

5 Replies

Tiny
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Hi there,

where are you hooking the test light up?

Mark (mhpautos)
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Sunday, May 30th, 2010 AT 9:03 PM
Tiny
BAGG'D&DRAGG'N
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I disconnected the neg battery cable cliped the alligator lead to it and the other end touched it to the neg post on the battery thats exactly what my mechanic told me to do?
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Monday, May 31st, 2010 AT 2:39 AM
Tiny
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OK, the method I would use is to place an Amp meter between the bat Pos and the battery cable, this way you can read off the actual amperage being draw down, with the test light you will see the open circuit but you cannot determine the current draw. There are systems that are active and the test light will not determine the faulty circuit. With the Amp meter, you want to see only about.15-.2 Amps thereabouts, if it is up around.4-.5 or higher there is a problem. If you have a higher reading, you can then pull fuses to try and isolate a faulty circuit, this will show up as a current draw back to a more realistic reading. Make sure that you disconnect the alternator as a test as well, as if you have a faulty diode in the rectifier, this will cause a current draw, but the alternator will still give a charge rate albeit at a below par reading.

Mark (mhpautos)
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Monday, May 31st, 2010 AT 6:09 AM
Tiny
BAGG'D&DRAGG'N
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Thank you for your help i'll try that
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Monday, May 31st, 2010 AT 9:21 AM
Tiny
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Let me know how you get on.

Mark
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Monday, May 31st, 2010 AT 9:29 AM

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