Battery light

Tiny
UFGATOR
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE
The battery light and the brake warning light are on in my 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder convertible. At first, these lights would go out after driving the car for a few minutes; now they are always on as soon as I turned the ignition key on. Other electrical problems: wiper blades won't park properly. Scanner says: 4 of 8 Readiness Monitors are complete. Catalyst, Evap system, 02 Sensor and EGR are not checked.
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Monday, June 15th, 2009 AT 8:08 AM

11 Replies

Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • EXPERT
The battery light and the brake lights are on in my 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder convertible

Get the battery and alternator load tested this is your starting point and then comeback with some results so that we can follow up. Low voltage will/can cause the issues you describe. Anytime you have a charge light on it should be dealt with

Read the guide below, it will help

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-alternator
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Monday, June 15th, 2009 AT 5:47 PM
Tiny
DENARAN
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE
Electrical problem
1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic

Ok. So I have a 98 Mitsu Eclipse RS with a 2.0 420a in it. I've swapped out the alternator and made sure I correctly repaired the 2 prong wiring harness that connects it to the ECU. My battery light still comes on after about 15 seconds after the car is on. What in the world could be wron here? It is a remanufactured alternator that was bought and tested from autozone before installation. Could this light be coming on because my battery was at around 11.5 volts and than what should go in the car? Please I desperatly need some help here. Especially before I say screw it and take it to the dealership and pay out the rear to have this fixed.
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Monday, May 13th, 2019 AT 7:15 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Hi Denaran,

Thank you for the donation.

I would suggest checking the crankshaft pulley. It has a harmonic damper and the outer rings tends to slip when the damper becomes detached.

When engine is running, look at pulley from top. If it is turning in a wavy pattern, the pulley is bad. Quite often you would get some squealing noise if the pulley is bad. Sounds as if the belts are loose.
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Monday, May 13th, 2019 AT 7:15 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DENARAN
  • MEMBER
I have one more idea. One would be to trace the 2 wires that connect the alternator to the ecu and see if they have a break in them. And 2 I've got the alternator belt pretty tight as is. The crankshaft pully looks perfectly fine. No weeble wobble of any sorts. After all is said and done I fear that my only next steps would be to order a new ecu and if that doesn't work take the damn thing to the dealership. Just don't understand it. I have just about replaced the entire charging system, wires and all, outside of the ecu and the 2 wires connecting it. You don't supppose there's a fuse I'm not seeing outside of the one under the hood?
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Monday, May 13th, 2019 AT 7:15 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Let us get back to the basics.

With engine running and when charge indicator light comes on, check voltage between alternator terminal "B" and ground.

If charging voltage is be less than 13.5 volts, the alternator is bad.

Some alternators would work correctly during bench test but on vehicle would fail after heating up.
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Monday, May 13th, 2019 AT 7:15 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SQUIDMAN
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 123,000 MILES
After a recent repair, cv half shaft replacement, lower ball joint, and new battery terminals, the car battery light was on. After dring a few miles the car head lights, gauge lights dimmes, and enginee sputered and quit slowely as did power steering. The car enginee will start when it is jumped but will soon die a slow death. I belive the problem is the alternator. The polarity on the battery terminals was briefly switched buy the villege idiot and smoke came from the ignition and the car would not start. Then this major problem occured when the polarity was set in the correct positon. PLEASE HELP I AM STUCK IN THE MIDDLE OF NO WHERE AND THIS CAR IS THE ONLY WAY I HAVE TO GET TO WORK. What should I fix and how should I do it to make this P.O.S run again.
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Monday, May 13th, 2019 AT 7:15 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BLUELIGHTNIN6
  • EXPERT
First of all, have you tested the alternator and determined that it is indeed the problem before the polarity issues? Second, switching polarity can "blow" many fuses and/or relays. You will have to check every single fuse and relay until you find the one (or more) that are "blown" so you can replace them.
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Monday, May 13th, 2019 AT 7:15 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SQUIDMAN
  • MEMBER
I will check the fuses with a multimeter. I did a visual inspection and none appeared blown, I will test with a meter. I checked the voltage on the battery it was low it was around 4 volts instead of the normal 12 volts, it is a new battery, so the polarity switch drained it when the damage occured. Also I did some reading on alternators and it appears` that they generate power, the car will run brifely when it is jumped but will quickly die. Also when the polarity was switched in the wrong position there was excesive sparking on the battery leads, small ammounts of smoke came from the ignition where the key goes, and it would not start. When it was switched to the correct polarity it started perfectly and ran for a bit then the lights dimmed the enginee sputtered and it died, and would no longer start unless jumped, but as I said it quickly dies.
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Monday, May 13th, 2019 AT 7:15 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BLUELIGHTNIN6
  • EXPERT
Then, yes, all you need is a new alternator. You could have got lucky and no fuses were hurt at all. After you change alternator, post your results and I will follow up. Also, when you jump the car and it starts, it is running off of the battery alone if the alternator is shot (not the alternator). This is why it keeps dieing quickly and also the reason your new battery is drained.
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Monday, May 13th, 2019 AT 7:15 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SQUIDMAN
  • MEMBER
I finaly got the alternator replaced. The voltage drop on the battery has stoped. There are a few new concerns though, the car starts the first time I turn the key runs ok but sounds as if it has way more power then before, also the needle moves up and down slightly. And the battery light comes on when the car reaches normal operating temprature. Also the heater and defrost doesn't work. Where should I start to fix these problems. I checked the fuses there were 4 small fuses blown 2 10's and 2 15 fuses. I will replace them, could they be causing the heat to not come on and the battery light to stay on.
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Monday, May 13th, 2019 AT 7:15 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BLUELIGHTNIN6
  • EXPERT
It's possible, depends on what the fuses are related to. Just post your results after you have replaced them so I will know if you still have the issues.
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Monday, May 13th, 2019 AT 7:15 PM (Merged)

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